2.8 value convertable
Discussion
for 2grand you will get a good ford powered tasmin...but it needs to check the cars carefully...you also could buy a 2grand car which is a basket case.
the price-range , especially for ford powered tasmins is so low that a really good and a total basket-case may differ in a few hundred pounds only.
main focus: chassis and interior.
a good 280wedge should show its factory grey powder coating on the chassis, a "clean" chassis which isnt covered in layers of waxoyl and underseal which commonly hides more than protects, non-rusty suspension parts, tidy enginebay, good hood, orignal clean and tidy interior.
the price-range , especially for ford powered tasmins is so low that a really good and a total basket-case may differ in a few hundred pounds only.
main focus: chassis and interior.
a good 280wedge should show its factory grey powder coating on the chassis, a "clean" chassis which isnt covered in layers of waxoyl and underseal which commonly hides more than protects, non-rusty suspension parts, tidy enginebay, good hood, orignal clean and tidy interior.
Comadis said:
for 2grand you will get a good ford powered tasmin...but it needs to check the cars carefully...you also could buy a 2grand car which is a basket case.
the price-range , especially for ford powered tasmins is so low that a really good and a total basket-case may differ in a few hundred pounds only.
main focus: chassis and interior.
a good 280wedge should show its factory grey powder coating on the chassis, a "clean" chassis which isnt covered in layers of waxoyl and underseal which commonly hides more than protects, non-rusty suspension parts, tidy enginebay, good hood, orignal clean and tidy interior.
Even the grey epoxy-coated chassis will rot if it gets chipped enough:the price-range , especially for ford powered tasmins is so low that a really good and a total basket-case may differ in a few hundred pounds only.
main focus: chassis and interior.
a good 280wedge should show its factory grey powder coating on the chassis, a "clean" chassis which isnt covered in layers of waxoyl and underseal which commonly hides more than protects, non-rusty suspension parts, tidy enginebay, good hood, orignal clean and tidy interior.
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/280i_fhc_chassis_rep...
Funnily enough I believe this car is now in Germany so it was obviously repaired properly, to the satisfaction of the new owner, before it went
Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 21st July 23:03
sure ...everything will rot if the original protection is damaged.
i talked about a complete intact powder coating, not a chipped one.
(by the way: how the coating on the outtrigger which is hidden by the sill can get chipped?)
there have been written stories about the pro and cons of powder coating, zinc-plating, waxoyl and so on.
my car has still its original outtrigers without any flaking powder-coating anywhere on the chassis. the car now covered 90000miles, most of them in UK, was never waxoyled or protected further than the factory coating.
i talked about a complete intact powder coating, not a chipped one.
(by the way: how the coating on the outtrigger which is hidden by the sill can get chipped?)
there have been written stories about the pro and cons of powder coating, zinc-plating, waxoyl and so on.
my car has still its original outtrigers without any flaking powder-coating anywhere on the chassis. the car now covered 90000miles, most of them in UK, was never waxoyled or protected further than the factory coating.
Comadis said:
there have been written stories about the pro and cons of powder coating, zinc-plating, waxoyl and so on.
From my experience I'd go for galvanising (zinc coating)... the Esprit chassis was galvanised from the late S2 cars onward and lasts extremely well - the only area of my '83 car's chassis that looked a bit shabby was the tube that runs nearest to the exhaust pipe. Even then it was just a small area, not really rusty, more discoloured.I have no doubt that if TVR had gone the same way, their cars would all be a LOT better now. If I did a full chassis refurb, galvanising is the protection I'd go for.
yes, lotus started alredy 1980 to galvanize their chassis´....but:
lotus chassis are backbones chassis, welded from sheet metal. these can be zinc-coated very easy.
on box section or tubular constructions its a bit more tricky...not impossible...but not so easy.
by the way: today´s (quality) powder coating processes always start with zinc-plating...if not its not quality work.
lotus chassis are backbones chassis, welded from sheet metal. these can be zinc-coated very easy.
on box section or tubular constructions its a bit more tricky...not impossible...but not so easy.
by the way: today´s (quality) powder coating processes always start with zinc-plating...if not its not quality work.
Comadis said:
yes, lotus started alredy 1980 to galvanize their chassis´....but:
lotus chassis are backbones chassis, welded from sheet metal. these can be zinc-coated very easy.
on box section or tubular constructions its a bit more tricky...not impossible...but not so easy.
by the way: today´s (quality) powder coating processes always start with zinc-plating...if not its not quality work.
The Esprit is a hybrid of sheet metal and tubes - the centre tunnel and front crossbeam are sheet, the rear suspension mounts and engine cradle is tube. Didn't seem to cause them any problems. Scaffolding tubes are also galvanised.lotus chassis are backbones chassis, welded from sheet metal. these can be zinc-coated very easy.
on box section or tubular constructions its a bit more tricky...not impossible...but not so easy.
by the way: today´s (quality) powder coating processes always start with zinc-plating...if not its not quality work.
Most powder coaters here just sandblast back to bare metal then apply powder, no zinc first. Some places as you say probably do, but it will cost.
comadis said:
by the way: today´s (quality) powder coating processes always start with zinc-plating...if not its not quality work.
Hmm, when I rebuilt my old Ford engined FHC, all the suspension parts were zinc phosphated not plated, I didn't think any powder coating specialists actually plated the items. The company that phosphated mine guarantee to a stupid level of salt spray corrosion resistance, they claim the powder is un-necessary, as IT WILL NOT RUST. 14 years since the rebuild still no corrosion, It works.Perhaps you don't have this level of quality of powder coating specialists in the fatherland?
Regards,
Chris.
PS. I also used to have a 84 Excel, galv. chassis, it was perfect, each time I see one quite fancy another!
the powder coating results in a smooth and nice looking surface. thats the reason car parts which are exposed (e.g. wishbones on a super seven) are normally not only galvanized.
from corrosion protection you do not need the coating when you have galvanized them. but the galvanization is shiny at beginning and gets dull and blotchy after some while.
over here you wont find any powder coating company which does not galvanize b4.
sure...more expensive...but its done 1 time, than fit and forget.
from corrosion protection you do not need the coating when you have galvanized them. but the galvanization is shiny at beginning and gets dull and blotchy after some while.
over here you wont find any powder coating company which does not galvanize b4.
sure...more expensive...but its done 1 time, than fit and forget.
ks as normal said:
Mike,
Good luck on your search, I hope you find the right car. Sorry about some of the negativity you will read on here but there is a troll or two floating about.
Do check the chassis carefully, the paintwork is important, I payed near to 4K for my repaint, interior again can be a costly exercise should you require a re-trim again I payed ~3K for a full retrim. When it comes down to mechanicals most parts are sourced from other cars and are relatively inexpensive, possibly with the exception of glass and suspension dampers. Bare these factors in mind and make your informed decision. If you buy a reasonably sorted car you will be very happy with your purchase.
It would be good for you to get to a TVR car club meeting or two, check the TVR car club website for meeting details. It's likely (but not guaranteed) there will be a couple of wedge owners there, generally a very friendly bunch who will happily bore you for a considerable amount of time on the pro's and cons of ownership.
Just my 2p, there is a considerable difference in steering feel with the earlier cars where the tie rod from front lower wishbone to chassis is mounted behind the front axle line, the later cars were mounted in front of the axle line and gave less kick through the steering wheel, still in the view of an enthusiast, this is no reason to discount a car.
Look forward to welcoming you to the club soon.
Regards,
Chris.
Good luck on your search, I hope you find the right car. Sorry about some of the negativity you will read on here but there is a troll or two floating about.
Do check the chassis carefully, the paintwork is important, I payed near to 4K for my repaint, interior again can be a costly exercise should you require a re-trim again I payed ~3K for a full retrim. When it comes down to mechanicals most parts are sourced from other cars and are relatively inexpensive, possibly with the exception of glass and suspension dampers. Bare these factors in mind and make your informed decision. If you buy a reasonably sorted car you will be very happy with your purchase.
It would be good for you to get to a TVR car club meeting or two, check the TVR car club website for meeting details. It's likely (but not guaranteed) there will be a couple of wedge owners there, generally a very friendly bunch who will happily bore you for a considerable amount of time on the pro's and cons of ownership.
Just my 2p, there is a considerable difference in steering feel with the earlier cars where the tie rod from front lower wishbone to chassis is mounted behind the front axle line, the later cars were mounted in front of the axle line and gave less kick through the steering wheel, still in the view of an enthusiast, this is no reason to discount a car.
Look forward to welcoming you to the club soon.
Regards,
Chris.
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