Duff 993 Brake Caliper Plates
Discussion
Just collected my 993 from the OPC, having had a service. On a short list of reccommendations, they tell me that my brake caliper "plates" are corroded and as a result, they will push my brake pads out of line.
They state that this will cause uneven pad wear and juddering when braking. The solution that they offer is to remove the calipers, take them to the bench, strip them down, remove (drill-out) these plates and replace and re-build them, including adding some "special paste" thet they need to use - estimated cost around £300 plus VAT.
Does anyone have any experience of this problem? If so, is this Porsche-suggested route the correct solution?
>>> Edited by david hype on Wednesday 17th December 18:44
They state that this will cause uneven pad wear and juddering when braking. The solution that they offer is to remove the calipers, take them to the bench, strip them down, remove (drill-out) these plates and replace and re-build them, including adding some "special paste" thet they need to use - estimated cost around £300 plus VAT.
Does anyone have any experience of this problem? If so, is this Porsche-suggested route the correct solution?
>>> Edited by david hype on Wednesday 17th December 18:44
Yes.
The beakes on the 993 are the same as on the 928, 964, 944 S2 and late 944 Turbo. Essentially they are aluminum calipers, with stainless steel plates on the top/bottom, to act as guides for the brake pade- so the pads will slide on the steel plates not the alloy. Apparently this is because the pads will corrode onto the aluminum calliper if not.
Unfortunantly moiusture can get in between the calipers and plates, corroding the calliper and lifting the plates slightly. This will restrict the movement of the pads, and prevent the excellent braking they should have.
Solution: remove the callipers, remove the plates (these need to heated), remove the corrosion and replace with new plates.
Or file down the brake pads slightly to make the clearence.
The latter is cheaper, but is it the RIGHT thing to do??
Not sure what the special paste is, but the plates do need loctite glue to keep the screws in place (its removing this which makes the heat necessary).
They are being truthful, and the difference in braking ability will be immense. Personally, if the price is £300 plus VAT for all four wheels its a very good price.
Regards,
Will
>> Edited by williamp on Wednesday 17th December 19:47
The beakes on the 993 are the same as on the 928, 964, 944 S2 and late 944 Turbo. Essentially they are aluminum calipers, with stainless steel plates on the top/bottom, to act as guides for the brake pade- so the pads will slide on the steel plates not the alloy. Apparently this is because the pads will corrode onto the aluminum calliper if not.
Unfortunantly moiusture can get in between the calipers and plates, corroding the calliper and lifting the plates slightly. This will restrict the movement of the pads, and prevent the excellent braking they should have.
Solution: remove the callipers, remove the plates (these need to heated), remove the corrosion and replace with new plates.
Or file down the brake pads slightly to make the clearence.
The latter is cheaper, but is it the RIGHT thing to do??
Not sure what the special paste is, but the plates do need loctite glue to keep the screws in place (its removing this which makes the heat necessary).
They are being truthful, and the difference in braking ability will be immense. Personally, if the price is £300 plus VAT for all four wheels its a very good price.
Regards,
Will
>> Edited by williamp on Wednesday 17th December 19:47
Thanks Will. I guess that I need to talk to Porsche in the morning and find out what number of calipers that quote was for...something tels me possibly just the one!
Assuming that I get this work done compitently somewhere, it leads me to the next qustion...
I have fancied getting all four calipers colour coded (red or yellow) Colin (Mr. 9M) has what looks to be a good offer on - any colour you like!
Is it best to get these failing "plates" done first and then get the calipers colour coded (as your suggestion involves heating) or does it make little difference?
Assuming that I get this work done compitently somewhere, it leads me to the next qustion...
I have fancied getting all four calipers colour coded (red or yellow) Colin (Mr. 9M) has what looks to be a good offer on - any colour you like!
Is it best to get these failing "plates" done first and then get the calipers colour coded (as your suggestion involves heating) or does it make little difference?
Machtech have done the rears of my Turbo and the fronts of my S2 (only it was £55 back then 
). I noticed at the last pad change that my fronts were slightly tight, so I'm going to try them myself this time 
as I am always tight
Will, filing the pads will work as a short term measure but I would have thought that the plates will lift even more now that the pressure is reduced, meaning you have to file the pads some more....etc, etc
I would imagine that the calliper plates are taken off for painting so one job would cure the lifting and result in very cool callipers
). I noticed at the last pad change that my fronts were slightly tight, so I'm going to try them myself this time as I am always tight Will, filing the pads will work as a short term measure but I would have thought that the plates will lift even more now that the pressure is reduced, meaning you have to file the pads some more....etc, etc
I would imagine that the calliper plates are taken off for painting so one job would cure the lifting and result in very cool callipers
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