Discussion
As wedg1e said, but for the 5 speed box you should be using 'Ford 1 045 737 Ford spec WSD-M2C200-C 75W-90 BO' that's taken directly from my bottle, its the lube recommended by Ford, and the man that rebuilt my gearbox stipulates with the type 9 if you don't use this lube then no warranty!
The early five speed boxes weren't the best, Ford had most of them back under warranty, use the oil above you should have no issues.
Have you got a wedge yet? If so tell us about it.
Regards,
Chris.
The early five speed boxes weren't the best, Ford had most of them back under warranty, use the oil above you should have no issues.
Have you got a wedge yet? If so tell us about it.
Regards,
Chris.
Not yet should be bringing the car home by trailer friday night..............No mot.........But looking foreward to it.Thank for your replies.Cheers Mike.Also been told the clutch is heavy the owner thinks it needs a new clutch cable.Your thoughts are welcome.Taz love your car very special .Cheers Mike
Whilst any v6 2.8 oil filter will screw on, if you have a car heater with the twin fans then the fresh air boxes only allow a small filter to pass through the gap. In that case you need a Mann filter W914/2.
If you haven't got the aforesaid heater bits getting in the way then any size will do.
If you haven't got the aforesaid heater bits getting in the way then any size will do.
Welcome to 280i ownership. I'm on my third one in the past 21 years. I've been using synthetic Castrol since I bought my first one with no complaints at all. As for what Grady said about the oil filter and dropping the exhaust, I've never had to do that myself but but I've found there's basically one route to removing the old filter through the network of frame tubes, and just repeat it in reverse to install the new one. After you have dirty oil drain down your arms the first few times, you'll get the hang of it.
Keep us informed as to how things go with your wedge.
Marshall
Keep us informed as to how things go with your wedge.
Marshall
taz turbo said:
Welcome to 'The Gang'
RE clutch cable, there could be a problem, but be aware the clutch pedal on these cars are heavy in operation.
Regards,
Chris.
If the "weight" of the clutch pedal is a problem you can easily convert it hydraulic. For the Taz Racer I simply made a Slave cylinder support bracket from 6mm thick steel plate positioned to the rear of the bellhousing, used a cheap Girling type slave cylinder with a push rod made from a domed head coach bolt, threaded rod, and a threaded rod joiner. This pushes the release arm rather than the cable pulling it. A girling master cylinder c/w resevoir was fitted the the pedal box which is already drilled and punched to take it. Linked the two cylinders with a bit of 4mm braided hose and thats it. Job took about 3 hours to do and cost about £100.00 in bits.RE clutch cable, there could be a problem, but be aware the clutch pedal on these cars are heavy in operation.
Regards,
Chris.
No more cable worries! I had to do it because I fitted a full competition paddle clutch which required an Arnie sized leg to operate it!
you can also convert the clutch-operation to the ford sierra type, where the pedal pulls the inner cable, instead the tvr-system where the pedal pushes the outer-sleeve of the cable.
on the tvr system the inner cable often snaps near fixing on the pedal.
so always keep a spare cable with you, as long as you havent done any conversion.
here a picture of a selfmade conversion, which i found on a web-page:
on the tvr system the inner cable often snaps near fixing on the pedal.
so always keep a spare cable with you, as long as you havent done any conversion.
here a picture of a selfmade conversion, which i found on a web-page:
Not arguing, but I wonder if it was because my Wedge came with a remote cooler and the hoses added to the lack of clearance. Or maybe I just have thick fingers. Either way, "up" was not an "out" for me. The remote filter is a relatively larger Fran PH 1 filter and has been a big improvement in the serviceability department.
It's mounted with the filter down in the space behind the radiator so any drips just hit the catch pan.
It's mounted with the filter down in the space behind the radiator so any drips just hit the catch pan.
Grady said:
Not arguing, but I wonder if it was because my Wedge came with a remote cooler and the hoses added to the lack of clearance. Or maybe I just have thick fingers. Either way, "up" was not an "out" for me. The remote filter is a relatively larger Fran PH 1 filter and has been a big improvement in the serviceability department.
It's mounted with the filter down in the space behind the radiator so any drips just hit the catch pan.
I recall the first couple of times I changed the filter on my Tasmin, I had to undo the right-hand engine mount and jack the engine up to get the filter past the head!It's mounted with the filter down in the space behind the radiator so any drips just hit the catch pan.
When I fitted the replacement engine, with new mounts, the problem disappeared, so the engine had been sat either too low or off-centre. Or maybe it was off-centre when I'd finished with it...
Thanks Wedg1e - That was the missing part... remove mount and jack up the engine then lift up and out. 
Actually once I changed out the two rusted-together-for-life manifold-to-exhaust studs and nuts, it was relatively quick and easy to un-bolt the right side exhaust and flex it a bit to the side to pop the old filter out and the new in.
It just made me think - do I really want to fool with this today???
Actually once I changed out the two rusted-together-for-life manifold-to-exhaust studs and nuts, it was relatively quick and easy to un-bolt the right side exhaust and flex it a bit to the side to pop the old filter out and the new in.
It just made me think - do I really want to fool with this today???
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