door wont open and other issues, pls hlp before MOT
Discussion
right, messing with drivers door wiring today and i pulled a wire from a plug, i dont know where it came from as i wasnt watching in that spost.
its the drivers door, its an orange wire which has been run outside the door loom at a later date by somone. it goes into the foot well and i dont know which plug it connects to.
from inside the door the orange wire comes out of the white plug, it has a black wire and a black/red wire next to it. now the whit plug in the foot well does not have these black and black/red wires so im not too sure if the orange will go there either.
if someone has their drivers door card off or is willing to get the door card off and check where the ornage wire from the white plug inside the door goes to then i would really appreciate it. (buzzer test it with a multi meter/continuity tester)
also i cannot get my passenger door to open. window goes up and down fully with door open, (it should only go to the lower limit for when door is open so you dont shut the door and the window cathcing on the rubbers)it was working perfect prior to my tinkering but i have checked all the wires are in and connected and still no solenoid operation.
Please someone help me, its stressing me right out, the car is 95% ready for mot now but this door malarky is putting a downer on it. what can i do to check i have a circuit to the door switch/button etc. does it work off live or earth?
its the drivers door, its an orange wire which has been run outside the door loom at a later date by somone. it goes into the foot well and i dont know which plug it connects to.
from inside the door the orange wire comes out of the white plug, it has a black wire and a black/red wire next to it. now the whit plug in the foot well does not have these black and black/red wires so im not too sure if the orange will go there either.
if someone has their drivers door card off or is willing to get the door card off and check where the ornage wire from the white plug inside the door goes to then i would really appreciate it. (buzzer test it with a multi meter/continuity tester)
also i cannot get my passenger door to open. window goes up and down fully with door open, (it should only go to the lower limit for when door is open so you dont shut the door and the window cathcing on the rubbers)it was working perfect prior to my tinkering but i have checked all the wires are in and connected and still no solenoid operation.
Please someone help me, its stressing me right out, the car is 95% ready for mot now but this door malarky is putting a downer on it. what can i do to check i have a circuit to the door switch/button etc. does it work off live or earth?
Will this help
www.theminiforum.com/tvr/wiring-diagrams/drivers-d...
or this
www.theminiforum.com/tvr/wiring-diagrams/door-harn...
Russ
www.theminiforum.com/tvr/wiring-diagrams/drivers-d...
or this
www.theminiforum.com/tvr/wiring-diagrams/door-harn...
Russ
Edited by sonnylad on Monday 27th July 17:41
Timmy2TARs said:
plum, can't help as I haven't fixed mine yet but my Cerb passed its MOT last week with a non-opening passengers door. I did wonder if it would fail, but pointed them to the mechanical pull that does still work. Have faith 
Interesting, my car FAILED because the passenger door would not open. I said about the emergency handle, but the reply was that if somebody was unconcious in the passenger seat, access would be needed from the outside.Tony
Maybe a silly question but have you taken the inside panel off and then disconnected all the plugs cleaned and sealed them? Mine were very corroded and green when mine stopped working but a good clean and polish with my sons toothbrush did the trick then then sealed them all with a spray electircal sealer and it has worked a treat since plus it gives you a chance to clean out all the crap that sneaks inside your door panels??
bit of any update, i got the passenger door working, it turned out to be a broken black wire (presuming earth) in the multi plug in foot well. it was attchaed but floating around inside the socket, making contact now and again.
next problem is, the passenger door, now opens and the windosws work but the window doest not drop when the door open button is pressed, it also goes all the way up when door is open, when it should just go to the safety limit, then shut the door, then the window will auto go up to the max. but it doesnt any more.
any ideas
next problem is, the passenger door, now opens and the windosws work but the window doest not drop when the door open button is pressed, it also goes all the way up when door is open, when it should just go to the safety limit, then shut the door, then the window will auto go up to the max. but it doesnt any more.
any ideas
plumAJP said:
next problem is, the passenger door, now opens and the windosws work but the window doest not drop when the door open button is pressed, it also goes all the way up when door is open, when it should just go to the safety limit, then shut the door, then the window will auto go up to the max. but it doesnt any more.
any ideas
any ideas
That sounds like yer microswitch. This tells the window control box whether your window is above (switch closed) or below (switch open) the threshold. Maybe you have a broken wire or switch has come loose. Remove the doorcard and ye shall find. Experiment with making the contact by shorting the wires and generally fiddling around until stuff starts working again.
i found the micro switch, it clicks when i press it but i havent checked to make sure it creates a circuit when its pressed or released.
ill check that tomorrow.
Ive had a nightmare of a day, I trailored the car home for autoglass to fit my new windscreen,they mocked the new screen on the car to find it doesn't fit properly. it sits pround on the drivers side top edge and the bottom drivers side edge protrudes to an extent that the top of the door is fouling it.
I dont know what to do. autoglass manager is speaking with fitter and looking at the screen tomorrow morning, they are going to phone peninsular tvr and ask if they had a batch of faulty glass!!! undoubtebly.
i did ask what happens if the windscreen is not from a "faulty batch" to which he didnt know.
major delay now, it think i have to say good bye to this summer and forget trying to get it done for the last dregs of sunshine that we may have. GUTTED and dissaponted.
ill check that tomorrow.
Ive had a nightmare of a day, I trailored the car home for autoglass to fit my new windscreen,they mocked the new screen on the car to find it doesn't fit properly. it sits pround on the drivers side top edge and the bottom drivers side edge protrudes to an extent that the top of the door is fouling it.
I dont know what to do. autoglass manager is speaking with fitter and looking at the screen tomorrow morning, they are going to phone peninsular tvr and ask if they had a batch of faulty glass!!! undoubtebly.
i did ask what happens if the windscreen is not from a "faulty batch" to which he didnt know.
major delay now, it think i have to say good bye to this summer and forget trying to get it done for the last dregs of sunshine that we may have. GUTTED and dissaponted.
- 1 Defo sounds like the microswitch, maybe a door sensor too. I've been fighting with mine today on Pax side.
The only weird thing is though is that it's not going all the way up when you shut the door. I don't think the microswitch is used for that positioning, but it may be throwing off the logic in the controller box that it's not had the input from the previous door opening window drop.
- 2 windscreem - there are two types are there not, early and late type? I'm sure I've heard this mentioned somewhere on here.
i was aware there was 2 style windscreens, the guy in autoglass asked me to measure my black banding and i gave him the measurements, 50mm bottom band and 35mm top band.
the window fits in the apeture nice, its not too big or small, it just doesnt touch the apperture for about 4 inches along the drivers side top.
The bottom drivers side corner, sticks out about 3-5mm, the drivers side banding also goes beyond the pillar so i can see the leather pillar and dirt etc. the pass side fits mint and the banding covers it perfect. im hoping i have a badly made glass
the window fits in the apeture nice, its not too big or small, it just doesnt touch the apperture for about 4 inches along the drivers side top.
The bottom drivers side corner, sticks out about 3-5mm, the drivers side banding also goes beyond the pillar so i can see the leather pillar and dirt etc. the pass side fits mint and the banding covers it perfect. im hoping i have a badly made glass
right i put a multi meter on the window microswitch and when it clicks it is making a circuit.
all the wires seem connected and tidy within the door, and on the multi plugs in the car.
some times the window does drop(if i disconnect the battery and then reconect it, i think if i try the door it will drop the window but after that one go, thats it, it wont drop any more and will go up to the max with the door open.
someone have any idea whats wrong?
what does the micro switch do? obviously is tell when the window is up or down but how(in what way) does it link to the door button?
all the wires seem connected and tidy within the door, and on the multi plugs in the car.
some times the window does drop(if i disconnect the battery and then reconect it, i think if i try the door it will drop the window but after that one go, thats it, it wont drop any more and will go up to the max with the door open.
someone have any idea whats wrong?
what does the micro switch do? obviously is tell when the window is up or down but how(in what way) does it link to the door button?
Plum,
From what I can ascertain from looking at my doors.
The microswitch is feedback to tell the window control box whether the window is in a 'safe' position or not re: opening door.
-If not 'safe', control box will lower window UNTIL the switch is struck. It will then allow solenoid to fire and open door.
-If 'safe' control box should just fire solenoid and leave window where is.
-Upon door shutting there seems to do a 'timed' raise of window to get it back to top position. There is no absolute 'home' indicator from what I can tell - Andy@APM said there was a timer in the motor or something.
So in answer to your question the microswitch IMO only controls the window postion through teh control box - probably through some sort of logic gate/microcontroller. Is the switch normally open or normally closed? I.e. When the window hits it does it make or break circuit? It's almost like the control box is maintaining that signal no matter what happens (i.e. thinks it's safe when not) - perhaps there are pullup resistors or something in there which are not functioning - this would explain why it works upon a reset (Batt disconnect), but not once powered.
My suspicion is that given it all works once you know that the switches+connections to the control box work, so I rekon the control box is being a bit fruity and I'd try swapping that out. Do you have the same problem both sides?
EDIT: I see it's just PAX side. If you wanted to be brave you could tr switching the wiring over from PAX to driver side in the control box wiring somehow. IF the problem shifts sides you know it's the box - I know not how trivial this would be, you'd have to look at schematics
From what I can ascertain from looking at my doors.
The microswitch is feedback to tell the window control box whether the window is in a 'safe' position or not re: opening door.
-If not 'safe', control box will lower window UNTIL the switch is struck. It will then allow solenoid to fire and open door.
-If 'safe' control box should just fire solenoid and leave window where is.
-Upon door shutting there seems to do a 'timed' raise of window to get it back to top position. There is no absolute 'home' indicator from what I can tell - Andy@APM said there was a timer in the motor or something.
So in answer to your question the microswitch IMO only controls the window postion through teh control box - probably through some sort of logic gate/microcontroller. Is the switch normally open or normally closed? I.e. When the window hits it does it make or break circuit? It's almost like the control box is maintaining that signal no matter what happens (i.e. thinks it's safe when not) - perhaps there are pullup resistors or something in there which are not functioning - this would explain why it works upon a reset (Batt disconnect), but not once powered.
My suspicion is that given it all works once you know that the switches+connections to the control box work, so I rekon the control box is being a bit fruity and I'd try swapping that out. Do you have the same problem both sides?
EDIT: I see it's just PAX side. If you wanted to be brave you could tr switching the wiring over from PAX to driver side in the control box wiring somehow. IF the problem shifts sides you know it's the box - I know not how trivial this would be, you'd have to look at schematics
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 9th August 22:47
Edited by stuthemong on Sunday 9th August 22:52
right I understand.
I will get the multi meter back on the micro switch and see when the circuit is being made (ie switch being pressed or not)
I was using an old multi meter last time with no Beep sound to tell me the circuit was made, just could see the numbers changing when the switch went one way.
I will also remove the window control box check all internals on PCB incase of any furring up and double check all the pins and wire connecting to them.
cheers for the info fella. (if all the above fails, i will think about swapping control boxes over)
what is the small protruding threaded bar and nut on the bottom of the door for? it connectc to a small circular metal plater on the sill? is this the sensor for the interior light?
I will get the multi meter back on the micro switch and see when the circuit is being made (ie switch being pressed or not)
I was using an old multi meter last time with no Beep sound to tell me the circuit was made, just could see the numbers changing when the switch went one way.
I will also remove the window control box check all internals on PCB incase of any furring up and double check all the pins and wire connecting to them.
cheers for the info fella. (if all the above fails, i will think about swapping control boxes over)
what is the small protruding threaded bar and nut on the bottom of the door for? it connectc to a small circular metal plater on the sill? is this the sensor for the interior light?
OK chap, step back a bit.
Get a proper multimeter and measure the resistance of the window switch window up and window down. You ideally want infinite and zero ohms to be the two states. If you have infinite and, say, 100ohms (which would indicate high resitance in wiring) then the wiring may have too high a resistance to control the control box. This would be the 1st thing I look at, make sure that you get low resistance in the boot + wiggle connectors on box.
The threaded bar is a reed switch that is actuated by a magnet glued into your sill. It tells the car whether the door is open or not. I have no idea if the door open/close sensor (that this thing is) tells the window box anything, or whether it's just for the light. Look at schematics find out if the door sensor goes into the window/door control box. If it does, then I'd defo ensure correct operation (multimeter on the pins door open and shut) as after your repaint maybe the magnet isn't penetrating through the paint well enough to engage the switch?
So yes, my plan would be decent ohm meter on window switch, then check schematics to see if door sensor could be in the game too, if not, look at control box and try to see if electronics inside all look ok.
Get a proper multimeter and measure the resistance of the window switch window up and window down. You ideally want infinite and zero ohms to be the two states. If you have infinite and, say, 100ohms (which would indicate high resitance in wiring) then the wiring may have too high a resistance to control the control box. This would be the 1st thing I look at, make sure that you get low resistance in the boot + wiggle connectors on box.
The threaded bar is a reed switch that is actuated by a magnet glued into your sill. It tells the car whether the door is open or not. I have no idea if the door open/close sensor (that this thing is) tells the window box anything, or whether it's just for the light. Look at schematics find out if the door sensor goes into the window/door control box. If it does, then I'd defo ensure correct operation (multimeter on the pins door open and shut) as after your repaint maybe the magnet isn't penetrating through the paint well enough to engage the switch?
So yes, my plan would be decent ohm meter on window switch, then check schematics to see if door sensor could be in the game too, if not, look at control box and try to see if electronics inside all look ok.
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