Buying tips for a T350.
Discussion
Hello Guy's.
I'm currently in the market for a T350, either a C or a T i'm not fussed.
I currently have a BMW M roadster and i feel the TVR would be the next logical step on wards for summer fun.
I've been to look at 3 so far. All have seemed fine but i can't help the feeling i'm not picking up on somethings. So what should i be looking for guys?
Also one thing i have noticed is that the interiors don't seem to wear very well. Lots of area's where the glue has come unstuck etc etc. Is this normal.
I think the next one i will look at is this one http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1126113.htm
Any opinions?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
I'm currently in the market for a T350, either a C or a T i'm not fussed.
I currently have a BMW M roadster and i feel the TVR would be the next logical step on wards for summer fun.
I've been to look at 3 so far. All have seemed fine but i can't help the feeling i'm not picking up on somethings. So what should i be looking for guys?
Also one thing i have noticed is that the interiors don't seem to wear very well. Lots of area's where the glue has come unstuck etc etc. Is this normal.
I think the next one i will look at is this one http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1126113.htm
Any opinions?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Unless you're looking at the very bottom end of the price point (say under 18k) then you should be able to find some lovely examples. Personally I would look for a car that has been owned by a real enthusiast, probably a TVRCC member and Pistonheads regular. Find one that has been cherished and one that has not been sat on a dealer forecourt for months. History, condition and how the previous owner treated the car are crucial to getting the right car.
Hi Steve,
It took me about 6 months to find mine. Looked at a number that had been less than well cared for, and even some at reputable main dealers (who shall remain nameless) that needed some bits doing to be worth the money - but maybe I was being a bit picky.
Anyway after a while you get tuned into what to look for; the right questions to ask, and what you can realistically get for your budget. But at the end of the day there is some small range in negotiation, but the old adage is true - you only get what you pay for.
I would say main advice is to speak with past owners and the shop that has done recent servicing. If both give you the right answers, then you know you can safely get your wallet out
It took me about 6 months to find mine. Looked at a number that had been less than well cared for, and even some at reputable main dealers (who shall remain nameless) that needed some bits doing to be worth the money - but maybe I was being a bit picky.
Anyway after a while you get tuned into what to look for; the right questions to ask, and what you can realistically get for your budget. But at the end of the day there is some small range in negotiation, but the old adage is true - you only get what you pay for.
I would say main advice is to speak with past owners and the shop that has done recent servicing. If both give you the right answers, then you know you can safely get your wallet out
Edited by triac on Sunday 2nd August 22:37
Some quick pointers:
1) Check the underside as the front and rear bodywork catch on sleeping policemen, etc.
2) Check the 'plastic' 3/4 windows as the bonding to the bodywork tends to come apart (disbondment)
3) When driving note whether the door windows pop out at the top - drop the windows at over 50mph then try to raise them fully again. Most had little inserts put between the roof headlining and the window so the window gets guided back in, some early ones didn't
4) If its a cold day check for misting in the headlamps and rear lamp clusters
5) The TVR badge that opens the rear hatch was plastic on early models and tends to be a bit scrappy
6) On the test drive try to fill it with fuel. Early cars tended to be a pain to fill as they either squirted the fuel back at you or they kept making the pump turn off. Later cars had the fuel pipe rerouted to solve this.
7) Open the hood and look at the fittings to the hood such as the supporting arm. They are in general fragile and can be easily wrenched free.
8) Usual TVR quirks like making sure all the buttons work, wipers touch the windscreen, windscreen jet hoses aren't loose so come off at speed, etc.
9) Listen for rattles from the engine when cold as things comes loose and without proper servicing things can get very bad very quick. If it sounds like a bag of spanners then the throttles are likely to be out and a service is needed
EDITTED TO ADD: I'd not buy anything older that 2005. 2003 was the first year and it took them a few years to get them right.
1) Check the underside as the front and rear bodywork catch on sleeping policemen, etc.
2) Check the 'plastic' 3/4 windows as the bonding to the bodywork tends to come apart (disbondment)
3) When driving note whether the door windows pop out at the top - drop the windows at over 50mph then try to raise them fully again. Most had little inserts put between the roof headlining and the window so the window gets guided back in, some early ones didn't
4) If its a cold day check for misting in the headlamps and rear lamp clusters
5) The TVR badge that opens the rear hatch was plastic on early models and tends to be a bit scrappy
6) On the test drive try to fill it with fuel. Early cars tended to be a pain to fill as they either squirted the fuel back at you or they kept making the pump turn off. Later cars had the fuel pipe rerouted to solve this.
7) Open the hood and look at the fittings to the hood such as the supporting arm. They are in general fragile and can be easily wrenched free.
8) Usual TVR quirks like making sure all the buttons work, wipers touch the windscreen, windscreen jet hoses aren't loose so come off at speed, etc.
9) Listen for rattles from the engine when cold as things comes loose and without proper servicing things can get very bad very quick. If it sounds like a bag of spanners then the throttles are likely to be out and a service is needed
EDITTED TO ADD: I'd not buy anything older that 2005. 2003 was the first year and it took them a few years to get them right.
Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 3rd August 23:19
Some good advice from Fatbutt there. With one exception - the not buying earlier than 2005. While it is true that TVR constantly enhanced their cars, they only made minor tweaks between 2003 and 2006 when the last few dregs were bolted together to make the final T350s. The only exception to this is the engine - generally the newer the better, but a rebuild trumps a 2006 engine - even then there are 2003 cars with peachy engines so don't think they're all about to fall to pieces.
Another point regarding 2005 vs older. My old T350 was built in March 2004, registered in May 2004. When I was looking for cars I obviously scoured the country and had every car for sale logged in my sad old mind. I know at least 3 definite and a few more probable 2005 cars which were built BEFORE mine in 2004. They sat in dealer's showrooms unsold and unregistered until 2005. In fact one 2005 example has recently sold on PH. This doesn't mean 2005 cars are bad of course - just don't judge the book by its cover.
Another point regarding 2005 vs older. My old T350 was built in March 2004, registered in May 2004. When I was looking for cars I obviously scoured the country and had every car for sale logged in my sad old mind. I know at least 3 definite and a few more probable 2005 cars which were built BEFORE mine in 2004. They sat in dealer's showrooms unsold and unregistered until 2005. In fact one 2005 example has recently sold on PH. This doesn't mean 2005 cars are bad of course - just don't judge the book by its cover.
Hi,
there was a basic buyers guide in EVO a while back. Take a read through it here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Guaranteed grins all round if you get one!
J.
there was a basic buyers guide in EVO a while back. Take a read through it here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Guaranteed grins all round if you get one!
J.
1) Check the underside as the front and rear bodywork catch on sleeping policemen, etc.
I agree - though it is VERY common and TBH nothing to really worry about as it's very easy to do
2) Check the 'plastic' 3/4 windows as the bonding to the bodywork tends to come apart (disbondment)
Some owners have reported these windows popping out at speed so do check this carefully
3) When driving note whether the door windows pop out at the top - drop the windows at over 50mph then try to raise them fully again. Most had little inserts put between the roof headlining and the window so the window gets guided back in, some early ones didn't
From what I've heard they all do this - the trick is to raise the window a little at a time rather than in one go. Mine is a 54 plate and has the inserts but can still do it
4) If its a cold day check for misting in the headlamps and rear lamp clusters
common but they can be re-sealed easily
5) The TVR badge that opens the rear hatch was plastic on early models and tends to be a bit scrappy
6) On the test drive try to fill it with fuel. Early cars tended to be a pain to fill as they either squirted the fuel back at you or they kept making the pump turn off. Later cars had the fuel pipe rerouted to solve this.
As far as I know the only mod was made to the Saggy and never to the T350 - all 350s (again AFAIK) are a PITA to fill, just make sure you never squeeze the pump more than half way and stop filling on the first click off
7) Open the hood and look at the fittings to the hood such as the supporting arm. They are in general fragile and can be easily wrenched free.
Hes after a T350
8) Usual TVR quirks like making sure all the buttons work, wipers touch the windscreen, windscreen jet hoses aren't loose so come off at speed, etc.
Agree - though I've yet to find a TVR whereby the wipers don't lift when on at speed
9) Listen for rattles from the engine when cold as things comes loose and without proper servicing things can get very bad very quick. If it sounds like a bag of spanners then the throttles are likely to be out and a service is needed
The S6 sounds like a sewing machine/bag of bolts at cold idle, try to listen to a few first of all to get an idea of what is good/bad rather than think they are all on the way out
EDITTED TO ADD: I'd not buy anything older that 2005. 2003 was the first year and it took them a few years to get them right.
No offence but rubbish!! I know of 2003 cras on fairly high mileages with no rebuild and 2005 cars with a rebuild after 12k. A lot is luck and also how the previous owners have treated the car.
Zippee said:
3) When driving note whether the door windows pop out at the top - drop the windows at over 50mph then try to raise them fully again. Most had little inserts put between the roof headlining and the window so the window gets guided back in, some early ones didn't
From what I've heard they all do this - the trick is to raise the window a little at a time rather than in one go. Mine is a 54 plate and has the inserts but can still do it
They all do this because the T350 was put together in a hurry and the mould wasn't symetrical apparently. I put on the inserts and it didn't happen again.From what I've heard they all do this - the trick is to raise the window a little at a time rather than in one go. Mine is a 54 plate and has the inserts but can still do it
Zippee said:
6) On the test drive try to fill it with fuel. Early cars tended to be a pain to fill as they either squirted the fuel back at you or they kept making the pump turn off. Later cars had the fuel pipe rerouted to solve this.
As far as I know the only mod was made to the Saggy and never to the T350 - all 350s (again AFAIK) are a PITA to fill, just make sure you never squeeze the pump more than half way and stop filling on the first click off
I was told by my dealer that the last of the line had the Sag mod.As far as I know the only mod was made to the Saggy and never to the T350 - all 350s (again AFAIK) are a PITA to fill, just make sure you never squeeze the pump more than half way and stop filling on the first click off
Zippee said:
7) Open the hood and look at the fittings to the hood such as the supporting arm. They are in general fragile and can be easily wrenched free.
Hes after a T350
I live in the US. The hood is the bonnet.Hes after a T350
Zippee said:
9) Listen for rattles from the engine when cold as things comes loose and without proper servicing things can get very bad very quick. If it sounds like a bag of spanners then the throttles are likely to be out and a service is needed
The S6 sounds like a sewing machine/bag of bolts at cold idle, try to listen to a few first of all to get an idea of what is good/bad rather than think they are all on the way out
I've had two S6's and when they are correctly set up they don't sound so bad. Sounding 'really' bad is a sign of the whole thing needing a tune.The S6 sounds like a sewing machine/bag of bolts at cold idle, try to listen to a few first of all to get an idea of what is good/bad rather than think they are all on the way out
Zippee said:
EDITTED TO ADD: I'd not buy anything older that 2005. 2003 was the first year and it took them a few years to get them right.
No offence but rubbish!! I know of 2003 cras on fairly high mileages with no rebuild and 2005 cars with a rebuild after 12k. A lot is luck and also how the previous owners have treated the car.
Suit yourself. I had a 2003, my mate had a 2005 (and following that a Sag) and I've seen plenty of 2004s/ spoken at length to the owners. The differences between the newer and older cars is marked. Like I said, 'I'd' not buy older than 2005. Engine asside, the fit and finish is a lot better in newer cars as they benefitted from the Sagaris mods.No offence but rubbish!! I know of 2003 cras on fairly high mileages with no rebuild and 2005 cars with a rebuild after 12k. A lot is luck and also how the previous owners have treated the car.
For the money this guy has to spend, I'd buy a late 2000/ 2001 Griff rather than a S6 engined car. Better to buy the last of the line that the first of a new line, at least that's my opinion. Other 'experts' on here might disagree.
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