lucas dissy question
Discussion
Thanks for that,
But now need to buy new dissy as whilst checking what else was loose, noticed that it did not spring as required, and after stripping it dow, only found 1 spring instead of 4 that should be in there !
Going for a cheapo £100 job as a temp measure until the winter when I put MS on it hopefully
But now need to buy new dissy as whilst checking what else was loose, noticed that it did not spring as required, and after stripping it dow, only found 1 spring instead of 4 that should be in there !
Going for a cheapo £100 job as a temp measure until the winter when I put MS on it hopefully
Real Steel do dizzy springs, could be worth a go.
They are down on about page 10 I think of the rover v8 stuff.
http://www.realsteel.co.uk
edited to add it is page 10 - look at advance curve kit, £11.65
They are down on about page 10 I think of the rover v8 stuff.
http://www.realsteel.co.uk
edited to add it is page 10 - look at advance curve kit, £11.65
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 4th August 11:16
When you say you removed the vacuum unit, do you mean you simply left it off? Don't run the engine like that. The base plate will be unsecured and free to move round changing the ignition timing at random. If it gives you too much advance under load you can severely damage the engine.
You can position the dizzy body in any orientation you like (in 45 degree increments), surely there's an orientation that enables you to fit the vac cannister?
You can position the dizzy body in any orientation you like (in 45 degree increments), surely there's an orientation that enables you to fit the vac cannister?
GreenV8S said:
When you say you removed the vacuum unit, do you mean you simply left it off? Don't run the engine like that. The base plate will be unsecured and free to move round changing the ignition timing at random. If it gives you too much advance under load you can severely damage the engine.
You can position the dizzy body in any orientation you like (in 45 degree increments), surely there's an orientation that enables you to fit the vac cannister?
Base plate seems secure as vacumn unit is on an arm, but no position where I can fit that and amp at same time, could always try and remote the amp at some point, as seeing as can't start the dam thing again, and now have spark and fuel !!You can position the dizzy body in any orientation you like (in 45 degree increments), surely there's an orientation that enables you to fit the vac cannister?
gsx600 said:
Base plate seems secure as vacumn unit is on an arm
I'm not sure what you mean by that, but if you have removed the vacuum cannister and not locked the base plate down by any other way is it not secure and will be free to move around, changing the timing. If it advances the ignition under load it can cause a lot of damage.gsx600 said:
Well changed over the dizzy, but new one has vacumn advance oposite the amplifier instead of next to it so had to remove vacumn unit
Did wedges use a specific dizzy ?
Runs again with out any vacumn advance but hopefully advances on the weights ,but still misfiring a bit.
If it has the ignition amp. on the distributor it should be a Lucas 35DLM8. The DL8 was similar but used a remote amp.Did wedges use a specific dizzy ?
Runs again with out any vacumn advance but hopefully advances on the weights ,but still misfiring a bit.
You can mount the dissy at any angle you like. Simply find TDC on no. 1 (and make sure it's TDC on compression, not 360 degrees out!), decide where you want the ignition amp to sit, poke a screwdriver down to turn the oil pump drive to a suitable angle then slot the distributor in so that as it twists into mesh with the cam, the oil pump drive engages. Wherever the rotor arm is now pointing is no.1, fit HT leads in correct firing order and fine-tune by rotating distributor with clamp bolt slack.
Wedg1e said:
decide where you want the ignition amp to sit, poke a screwdriver down to turn the oil pump drive to a suitable angle then slot the distributor in so that as it twists into mesh with the cam, the oil pump drive engages. Wherever the rotor arm is now pointing is no.1, fit HT leads in correct firing order and fine-tune by rotating distributor with clamp bolt slack.
Given that it's already engaged with the oil pump drive, he can simply turn the body of the dizzy in 45 degree increments until it's oriented as he wants, move the plug leads round the cap to keep them in their original position.I've seen distributors with the vac advance fitting in different positions relative to the ignition module, and it sounds as if that's what you have here.
Given that the new dizzy basically doesn't fit, wouldn't you be better off using it as a source of spares to rebuild your original dizzy?
Given that the new dizzy basically doesn't fit, wouldn't you be better off using it as a source of spares to rebuild your original dizzy?
GreenV8S said:
Wedg1e said:
decide where you want the ignition amp to sit, poke a screwdriver down to turn the oil pump drive to a suitable angle then slot the distributor in so that as it twists into mesh with the cam, the oil pump drive engages. Wherever the rotor arm is now pointing is no.1, fit HT leads in correct firing order and fine-tune by rotating distributor with clamp bolt slack.
Given that it's already engaged with the oil pump drive, he can simply turn the body of the dizzy in 45 degree increments until it's oriented as he wants, move the plug leads round the cap to keep them in their original position.
Hi Paul, Had the same problem on my 390. I bought one of RPI's cheap replacement Dizzy's a while back, and when i came to fit it this year, discovered that the Amp is in a different position to the original Wedge Dizzy (bearing in mind my '88 was aland-rover sourced V8?).
I Managed to fit it with Vacuum unit 180 Degress out from 'standard',and it works fine.
Can send piccies if you like??
Regards
Andy
I Managed to fit it with Vacuum unit 180 Degress out from 'standard',and it works fine.
Can send piccies if you like??
Regards
Andy
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