How to change rear pads

[Quinny]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 23 December 2011 at 22:02

[Chimjunkie]

Great article Quinny! My caliper main bolts are hex head jobbies which caused most of my problems. Finding a bloody hex head the right size took ages!

[rigga]

Is this a start of a series of top tips Quinny??...... can we suggest a few for you?

[Pushrod-Power]

rigga said:

Is this a start of a series of top tips Quinny??...... can we suggest a few for you?

To much time on his hands where's the bleed nipple cap and whats the point showing this if you aint changing the pads anyway

[Pushrod-Power]

Quinny said:

Pushrod-Power said:

rigga said:

Is this a start of a series of top tips Quinny??...... can we suggest a few for you?

To much time on his hands where's the bleed nipple cap and whats the point showing this if you aint changing the pads anyway

The point was, I had a little stone trapped in the caliper and it was doing me ed in

Fair enough

[cookie450]

Nice little write up there - looking forward to the next installment
Cheers

[GreenV8S]

Think you would be better off using the proper calliper wind-back tool (they're only a few quid) rather than G cramps and so on.

If you were replacing worn pads it would also have been sensible to clean the areas that the pads bear on, and clean and regrease the calliper slides, and flush the fluid through, while you're there. These all need doing at around the same interval.

[Ace-T]

GreenV8S said:

Think you would be better off using the proper calliper wind-back tool (they're only a few quid) rather than G cramps and so on.

If you were replacing worn pads it would also have been sensible to clean the areas that the pads bear on, and clean and regrease the calliper slides, and flush the fluid through, while you're there. These all need doing at around the same interval.

Also you need to make sure that as your pads have worn down that the fluid has not been topped up. If this has happened, as you wind the callipers back the fluid can be forced back out the reservoir and wee all over your nice paintwork - this of course is bad, bad, bad.

The trick is to get a turkey baster and take a little fluid out of the reservoir to avoid this. However flushing through the whole system with new fluid as Green said above is probably the best thing to do. This is what I did when I put new disks, pads and Goodrich braided lines on the fronts on the Chimaera. I was mega chuffed when the nice mechanic chap at TVR Power complimented me on the good job I had done (even before he knew I had done it!)

Trace

Edited by Ace-T on Monday 3rd August 23:02

[GreenV8S]

Quinny said:

Not sure how spending money would make me better off.

I wasn't replacing worn pads.

Maybe I have misunderstood. I thought your article was intended to show people how to change the pads. In that case I think you'd be doing them a service by telling them that there's a tool specifically designed to push the piston back that makes it trivially easy - or they can make do with a G cramp and something to turn the piston, if they prefer. Likewise, although you don't *have* to service the rest of the calliper or flush the fluid through while you're at it, it's a sensible thing to do while you have access because it needs doing at roughly the same interval as you replace the pads, typically. Although not relevant in your case to remove trapped stones, I think that people trying to follow your instructions to replace worn pads could find it helpful.

[TOV!E]

Quinny said:

GreenV8S said:

Think you would be better off using the proper calliper wind-back tool (they're only a few quid) rather than G cramps and so on..

Not sure how spending money would make me better off.
Its 1 G clamp and 1 Grinder spanner which I already have, and work in a perfectly satisfactory way.
Others can spend their hard earned as they wish...

GreenV8S said:

If you were replacing worn pads it would also have been sensible to clean the areas that the pads bear on, and clean and regrease the calliper slides, and flush the fluid through, while you're there. These all need doing at around the same interval.

I wasn't replacing worn pads.

But even if I was I wouldn't be changing perfectly good brake fluid and flushing lines out.

I only do those jobs when they're needed, not because I'm doing somthing else

If my brake fluid needed changing, I'd change it when needed, and not wait until until I was fitting new pads..

The 2 events could be years appart

I change my fluid every 2 years come what may

Edited by Quinny on Monday 3rd August 23:43

What a pair of old women, the bloke was just telling how to change rear pads and you to pratts have to put in your uncalled for comments, no wonder this site is going down fast.............

[Pushrod-Power]

TOV!E said:

Quinny said:

GreenV8S said:

Think you would be better off using the proper calliper wind-back tool (they're only a few quid) rather than G cramps and so on..

Not sure how spending money would make me better off.
Its 1 G clamp and 1 Grinder spanner which I already have, and work in a perfectly satisfactory way.
Others can spend their hard earned as they wish...

GreenV8S said:

If you were replacing worn pads it would also have been sensible to clean the areas that the pads bear on, and clean and regrease the calliper slides, and flush the fluid through, while you're there. These all need doing at around the same interval.

I wasn't replacing worn pads.

But even if I was I wouldn't be changing perfectly good brake fluid and flushing lines out.

I only do those jobs when they're needed, not because I'm doing somthing else

If my brake fluid needed changing, I'd change it when needed, and not wait until until I was fitting new pads..

The 2 events could be years appart

I change my fluid every 2 years come what may

Edited by Quinny on Monday 3rd August 23:43

What a pair of old women, the bloke was just telling how to change rear pads and you to pratts have to put in your uncalled for comments, no wonder this site is going down fast.............

Funny,i can only see only one woman on that post(as you put it) no offence GreenV8s.

Edited by Pushrod-Power on Tuesday 4th August 12:33

[s6boy]

TOV!E said:

Quinny said:

GreenV8S said:

Think you would be better off using the proper calliper wind-back tool (they're only a few quid) rather than G cramps and so on..

Not sure how spending money would make me better off.
Its 1 G clamp and 1 Grinder spanner which I already have, and work in a perfectly satisfactory way.
Others can spend their hard earned as they wish...

GreenV8S said:

If you were replacing worn pads it would also have been sensible to clean the areas that the pads bear on, and clean and regrease the calliper slides, and flush the fluid through, while you're there. These all need doing at around the same interval.

I wasn't replacing worn pads.

But even if I was I wouldn't be changing perfectly good brake fluid and flushing lines out.

I only do those jobs when they're needed, not because I'm doing somthing else

If my brake fluid needed changing, I'd change it when needed, and not wait until until I was fitting new pads..

The 2 events could be years appart

I change my fluid every 2 years come what may

Edited by Quinny on Monday 3rd August 23:43

What a pair of old women, the bloke was just telling how to change rear pads and you to pratts have to put in your uncalled for comments, no wonder this site is going down fast.............

I think Quinny was only responding to a 'contribution' to his original post which while not a Haynes manual was helpful and took time and effort to do.
There have always been those who come on here and end up spoiling a helpful or well intentioned topic. I just can't understand what they get out of it.

[Pushrod-Power]

Well i was only jarring Quinny a little to be honest,i also think its good of him to take the time and show this kind of thing,after all there are owners that would usually struggle with this kind of thing

Edited by Pushrod-Power on Tuesday 4th August 13:14

[rigga]

Full of nitpickers this place is,Quinny was only trying to be helpfull and then gets flack for it ...... No wonder people hold back from helping others at times,take it for the spirit for which it was intended ... Good grief !

[s6boy]

Not having a whinge at you P-P, could see you were pulling his leg.

[Pushrod-Power]

s6boy said:

Not having a whinge at you P-P, could see you were pulling his leg.

Cool Quinny is in fact one of the good guys on this site IMHO

[Chimjunkie]

Cant see any problems with GreenV8S's posts. I read them to be thorough constructive additional information. It is always worth pointing out things that can be done at the same time when you have the car in bits!

[bsdnazz]

Dumb question time...

Why do you have to wind the piston back rather than just push it back?

If the piston is engaging on the bump on the back of the pad when in use the piston can't
rotate when in use so why does it have to be rotated when being wound back?

[330p4]

Nice post Quinny the tip with the grinder spanner is a good one. I have the wind back tool for the ford but it does not fit that well. I think it has to be rotated due to the handbrake mechanism but i stand to be corrected. We do see more pictures of your ramp than your car though quinny?
Ian

[HRG.]

Just leave the rack How To well alone