Binding brakes? Any ideas?
Discussion
Can anyone give me some advice?
The brakes on my S2 were binding. You had to give it loads of throttle just to keep the car running and if you dipped the clutch it was just liek stamping on the brakes.
To fix it I overhauled the front calipers, inspected the rear drum brakes and completely flushed through new brake fluid. It seemed to work a treat, for a couple of weeks anyway.
Went out on a run today and the binding is back, just as bad. However it only starts to bind up after about 30 miles and then it comes and goes on a random basis. After the run I couldn't touch the front right wheel it was so hot, whereas the left wheel was warm but you could touch it okay.
The other symptom is wheel vibration at anything over 40mph, but only when it's binding? As I've just had 2 new tyres with a fresh balance and it comes and goes then I don't suspect the wheel balance.
Could it be a wheel bearing on its way out? Or does anyone know of any other brake issues it could be.
The brakes on my S2 were binding. You had to give it loads of throttle just to keep the car running and if you dipped the clutch it was just liek stamping on the brakes.
To fix it I overhauled the front calipers, inspected the rear drum brakes and completely flushed through new brake fluid. It seemed to work a treat, for a couple of weeks anyway.
Went out on a run today and the binding is back, just as bad. However it only starts to bind up after about 30 miles and then it comes and goes on a random basis. After the run I couldn't touch the front right wheel it was so hot, whereas the left wheel was warm but you could touch it okay.
The other symptom is wheel vibration at anything over 40mph, but only when it's binding? As I've just had 2 new tyres with a fresh balance and it comes and goes then I don't suspect the wheel balance.
Could it be a wheel bearing on its way out? Or does anyone know of any other brake issues it could be.
My daughters Suzuki Vitara had a similar problem with binding front brakes and really hot wheels. It took ages and loads of expense to eventually find that the front flexi hoses had broken down (possibly because they had been held with a mole wrench). When the brakes were applied the hoses held the pressure on the caliper causing the binding. It was also intermittent. New hoses completely solved the problem. Could be worth a look? Andy
There are a couple of problems at the master cylinder that can make the brakes bind, but this always affects both sides equally. If the two sides are different it's either a mechanical problem at the calliper, or a blockage in one of the hoses. A mechanical problem would eventually lead to uneven pad wear, so if you see that it's a good clue.
I had the same problem on a Pug 205 binding on one side only. The car would not go over 60mph one day so I pulled over to see the caliper area set on fire. Poured water on it, limped it home.
I found that the metal guide that you pushed in after fitting the pads had an excessive build up on it. I filed it off and applied a little CopperSlip and it was fine afterwards.
I found that the metal guide that you pushed in after fitting the pads had an excessive build up on it. I filed it off and applied a little CopperSlip and it was fine afterwards.
I had this on a old Fiesta years ago. The caliper pistons had corroded and there was corrosion around the outer end of the caliper bore. Cleaning it up cured the problem, but it would tend to come back as corrosion build up over time. Steering vibration is caused by the fact that the brake is dragging on one side only. It gets worse with distance traveled as the heat build up seems to increase the binding (possibly due to expansion of disc and pads). Tends to get better on motorway driving as the air flow cools the brakes and pad wear reduces the binding, as long as you don't use the brakes!!
If the pistons are corroded the only long term solution may be to replace / re-plate to stop the corrosion recuring.
If the pistons are corroded the only long term solution may be to replace / re-plate to stop the corrosion recuring.
Unless someone tells me otherwise the V8S & V6S front brake pipe setup is identical, its the rears that you have to beware of with a mix of metrix and imperial.
Have a look at this, and I'd order the 2 front flexi hoses listed.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Flexible Brake Hose Information
They look like this.
Have a look at this, and I'd order the 2 front flexi hoses listed.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Flexible Brake Hose Information
They look like this.
Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 10th August 11:35
Chris stop misbehaving you know no-one elses looks like that it all shiny red and clean 
Thanks to all, and no mine isn't that clean and shiny either. So the next step seems to be new flexis, so I'd better order some from the given link tomorrow and look to fit them this weekend.
I'll post once it's done to let you all know how it goes.
Regards all the other suggestions if the flexis don't work then I'll move through the other fixes.
I thought that I read on an earlier forum that a dodgy master cylinder may give problems? But I can't find it now. Anyone remember this one? May be worthwhile doing a new seal kit while I've got the brake lines down anyway?
I'll post once it's done to let you all know how it goes.
Regards all the other suggestions if the flexis don't work then I'll move through the other fixes.
I thought that I read on an earlier forum that a dodgy master cylinder may give problems? But I can't find it now. Anyone remember this one? May be worthwhile doing a new seal kit while I've got the brake lines down anyway?
Bob even though you overhauled the caliper there may have been a problem with the piston that wasn't obvious. As Norfolksteve said this may need another look. I have a spare standard front caliper. It's been off the car a fair while but if you want to pay the postage its yours. Good luck. Tony
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