anyone got a Moss MS715 alarm manual/op instructions?
Discussion
...I don't know if they're all basically similar, but my 350i has a MS715 with the single button fob thingy which I havn't used for ages cos the fob thingy fell apart..but I have new fob now so am trying to get it working again, but have no idea how to check if it's working properly, or a wiring diagram etc.. can anyone help? ta
OK, had a rummage, here's what I can tell you:
Firstly there were two versions of the 715, 'old' and 'new'; which one yours is can be determined by the connector layout. If it has a 6-way, a 4-way, a 3-way and a 2-way... it's the old version. If it has a 6-way and a 7-way plus some smaller ones, it's the later model
Assuming later version then...
System has voltage drop sensing (doors opening etc.), shock sensing by onboard piezo sensor, onboard sounder, single-circuit immobiliser, ultrasonics (using interface/heads), central locking (requires external interface), fan sensing (prevents false triggering when cooling fan switches off), remote tilt sensor input.
The sounder is a moving-coil device of 8 Ohms, giving 120dB.
When arming/disarming, one long 'pip' is Armed, two pips Disarmed.
The transmitter fob uses 15-bit binary coding giving 32768 possible code variations. It is not anti-code-grabbing due to its age. The fob may have no fine-tuning capacitor onboard, which means that any tuning has to be done at the receiver (to optimise range).
If you pull back the rubber boot that keeps water off the wiring connectors, you'll see a variable potentiometer: this is the shock sensor sensitivity adjustment. There's a small socket at the opposite end from it: if you have ultrasonics fitted (unlikely in a convertible), that's where the interface plugs in. A small slide switch selects pos. or neg. fan sensing: don't alter it as it should be correct for your car!
Connectors:
6-Way...
Red - +12v
Black - Ground
2x Orange - Outputs to L & R indicators
2x Grey - Immobilising circuit
2-Way...
Red/White - Remote current sensing wire (connected to some random point in the wiring loom to detect volts drop on door open)
7-Way...
Brown - Aerial
Pink - +12v switched output (12v when armed)
Green/Yellow - Fan sensing
Yellow - +12v input when ignition on
Blue/White - N/C input (must be grounded)
Blue - N/O input (negative edge triggering)
Green - Panic switch
One 3-Way connector provides central locking via eg. MS716 or MS718 interfaces, connector will have White and White/Black wires if used
Other 3-Way connector is remote tilt sensor input
The old version 715 is almost the same but lacks switched 12v output, tilt input etc.... also the arm/disarm indicator flash sequence is different - one flash Armed, 3 flashes Disarmed.
I also have some bumf on another Moss unit from c.1991 that is suspiciously similar to the 715; not sure what model as my notes don't say but if yours doesn't look like either of the two above let me know because this one may be a closer match
Firstly there were two versions of the 715, 'old' and 'new'; which one yours is can be determined by the connector layout. If it has a 6-way, a 4-way, a 3-way and a 2-way... it's the old version. If it has a 6-way and a 7-way plus some smaller ones, it's the later model
Assuming later version then...
System has voltage drop sensing (doors opening etc.), shock sensing by onboard piezo sensor, onboard sounder, single-circuit immobiliser, ultrasonics (using interface/heads), central locking (requires external interface), fan sensing (prevents false triggering when cooling fan switches off), remote tilt sensor input.
The sounder is a moving-coil device of 8 Ohms, giving 120dB.
When arming/disarming, one long 'pip' is Armed, two pips Disarmed.
The transmitter fob uses 15-bit binary coding giving 32768 possible code variations. It is not anti-code-grabbing due to its age. The fob may have no fine-tuning capacitor onboard, which means that any tuning has to be done at the receiver (to optimise range).
If you pull back the rubber boot that keeps water off the wiring connectors, you'll see a variable potentiometer: this is the shock sensor sensitivity adjustment. There's a small socket at the opposite end from it: if you have ultrasonics fitted (unlikely in a convertible), that's where the interface plugs in. A small slide switch selects pos. or neg. fan sensing: don't alter it as it should be correct for your car!
Connectors:
6-Way...
Red - +12v
Black - Ground
2x Orange - Outputs to L & R indicators
2x Grey - Immobilising circuit
2-Way...
Red/White - Remote current sensing wire (connected to some random point in the wiring loom to detect volts drop on door open)
7-Way...
Brown - Aerial
Pink - +12v switched output (12v when armed)
Green/Yellow - Fan sensing
Yellow - +12v input when ignition on
Blue/White - N/C input (must be grounded)
Blue - N/O input (negative edge triggering)
Green - Panic switch
One 3-Way connector provides central locking via eg. MS716 or MS718 interfaces, connector will have White and White/Black wires if used
Other 3-Way connector is remote tilt sensor input
The old version 715 is almost the same but lacks switched 12v output, tilt input etc.... also the arm/disarm indicator flash sequence is different - one flash Armed, 3 flashes Disarmed.
I also have some bumf on another Moss unit from c.1991 that is suspiciously similar to the 715; not sure what model as my notes don't say but if yours doesn't look like either of the two above let me know because this one may be a closer match
Wedgie I recall that when I looked at the connectors on the back of my alarm the two grey wires (immobiliser circuit according to your notes) are 'heat damaged' - as is the body of the alarm unit around them. i.e they either get very hot or did so at some time. Not knowing which circuit these wires are wired into it's hard to know how much of a problem this might be...it all seems to work at the moment but the signs are not good! Do you know which circuit these wires are likely to be interrupting? Fuel pump? Starter solenoid?
Industry guidelines around the turn of the 90's were that a single-circuit immobiliser should only cut the starter solenoid... ie bu99er-all use really as the average scrote screwdrivered the ignition switch. Once the ignition was on, a quick bump-start and the car was away.
Needless to say many installers used their noggin and would cut the coil feed, the ECU feed, ignition pickup, fuel pump or the feed from the ignition switch to the main power relay(s). Yours could be any of these, but if the wiring has been toasted it may well be switching something heavy (or there's been a short in the loom at some point).
The variable quality of work is what led to the stories of immobilisers being unreliable - they're usually not, but soldering often is.
The screwdriver in the igniton trick led to the introduction of transponder keys: you can twist the switch till your pods fall off but the car (or bike) won't start. Sadly it doesn't stop the scum (usually those in training, who don't have two brain cells to rub together) trying it. The same idiots probably believe that putting a stolen stereo in the freezer erases the security code
Needless to say many installers used their noggin and would cut the coil feed, the ECU feed, ignition pickup, fuel pump or the feed from the ignition switch to the main power relay(s). Yours could be any of these, but if the wiring has been toasted it may well be switching something heavy (or there's been a short in the loom at some point).
The variable quality of work is what led to the stories of immobilisers being unreliable - they're usually not, but soldering often is.
The screwdriver in the igniton trick led to the introduction of transponder keys: you can twist the switch till your pods fall off but the car (or bike) won't start. Sadly it doesn't stop the scum (usually those in training, who don't have two brain cells to rub together) trying it. The same idiots probably believe that putting a stolen stereo in the freezer erases the security code
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