E39 523i OVERHEATING PROBLEMS, ALTHOUGH STILL WARM AIR HTRS
Discussion
Maybe your thermostat is stuck closed, which would cause it to overheat. Your heating would stay warm because the water is drawn from the engine not the radiator.
Thermostat is behind the item numbered 4 on here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DM32...
Thermostat is behind the item numbered 4 on here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DM32...
Don't drive it in this condition if you do the head gasket will blow. What's the milage and has the water pump been changed? A water pump costs about £30/40 and £60+ to have it fitted.
Sometimes when a car over heats and blows the head gasket people just change the gasket only for it to blow again because the water pump needs changing, on an E34 they recomend it at about 95k, it's probably the same for an E39.
Sometimes when a car over heats and blows the head gasket people just change the gasket only for it to blow again because the water pump needs changing, on an E34 they recomend it at about 95k, it's probably the same for an E39.
Easy. There are various internet stories of jacking up the front of the car, standing on your head, doing a merry jig etc.
Don't just tip it in through the radiator cap, you'll just get a mahoooosive air lock.
Take the top rad hose off the radiator but leave the radiator cap ON.
SLOWLY pour anti freeze into the hose - this is filling the engine and the level will build up in the rad too. Keep adding it until it starts to spill from the radiator top hose elbow - that means the rad is full as well. Refit the hose and fire it up, heater on. Run it up the road, give it the beans until you feel the heater starting to pump warm air.
There are tow bleed screws. One is on the rad next to the cap, the other is on the plastic thermostat housing. Gove both a crack open to let any remaining air out. All fun and games.
Don't just tip it in through the radiator cap, you'll just get a mahoooosive air lock.
Take the top rad hose off the radiator but leave the radiator cap ON.
SLOWLY pour anti freeze into the hose - this is filling the engine and the level will build up in the rad too. Keep adding it until it starts to spill from the radiator top hose elbow - that means the rad is full as well. Refit the hose and fire it up, heater on. Run it up the road, give it the beans until you feel the heater starting to pump warm air.
There are tow bleed screws. One is on the rad next to the cap, the other is on the plastic thermostat housing. Gove both a crack open to let any remaining air out. All fun and games.
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