AC Crank bolt - how to get out?
Discussion
The AJP build manual says use loctite and torque to 80lb/ft. I've put effort into a 1' breaker bar, plus a 1.5' scaffold pole slid over the end of that which would undo a bolt torqued to 800lb/ft! Plus I've been using heat and plus gas! What am I doing wrong??
Is it possible for me to wait until the engine is out of the car and then try an airgun?
EDIT: Missed the word 'pulley' out of the title!
Is it possible for me to wait until the engine is out of the car and then try an airgun?
EDIT: Missed the word 'pulley' out of the title!
Edited by jammy_basturd on Tuesday 18th August 21:10
I KNEW it was right hand thread because I read a topic early today asking exactly that AND the workshop manual makes no mention of it being Irish. Still made my heart stop for a split second!jammy_basturd said:
Just to double check, you don't need to remove the four allen head bolts first do you?
We removed them but it did not make a difference either way. It is probably worth removing them. They are not that difficult to take out.Edited by jammy_basturd on Tuesday 18th August 21:48
Had the same issue with my Supra (and a common problem on those) Crank bolts used to be seized solid. Tried air gun, breaker bars, scaffolding, heat everything you could thinl and the only thing thaat worked was a breaker bar wedged against the ground and cranking the engine over briefly until it cracked it open....very crude and very dangerous and i wouldnt recommend it but it worked for me 
...
...sk7ine man said:
Had the same issue with my Supra (and a common problem on those) Crank bolts used to be seized solid. Tried air gun, breaker bars, scaffolding, heat everything you could thinl and the only thing thaat worked was a breaker bar wedged against the ground and cranking the engine over briefly until it cracked it open....very crude and very dangerous and i wouldnt recommend it but it worked for me ...
Or, wedge a breaker bar against the chassis, push the car in gear and let the clutch out. Was the only way I could crack open the pulley bolt on my RX-7......Hopefully by persevering with heat, cold, penetrating oil, belting the heck out of it and making sure you're turning it the right way 
you'll get it off eventually. Whatever else you do, make sure you don't reuse that bolt afterwards. It'll be over stressed and weakened even if it doesn't snap while you're getting it out. Fit a new replacement, and from the sound of it it'll need to be high tensile. And breakable threadlock, not permanent like the previous owner used ...
you'll get it off eventually. Whatever else you do, make sure you don't reuse that bolt afterwards. It'll be over stressed and weakened even if it doesn't snap while you're getting it out. Fit a new replacement, and from the sound of it it'll need to be high tensile. And breakable threadlock, not permanent like the previous owner used ...
sk7ine man said:
Had the same issue with my Supra (and a common problem on those) Crank bolts used to be seized solid. Tried air gun, breaker bars, scaffolding, heat everything you could thinl and the only thing thaat worked was a breaker bar wedged against the ground and cranking the engine over briefly until it cracked it open....very crude and very dangerous and i wouldnt recommend it but it worked for me ...
This has never failed to work for me on any engine, always makes me very nervous though!!...Yep, did the same trick on the other halfs Proton yesterday. Ages bugggering around with the impact gun and breaker bar.
Checked it was all turning the correct way and buzzed it over on the starter, took 2 seconds.
However this goes wrong when the cambelt sprocket isn't keyed or pinned at all. Bolt loosens, all timing lost.... ;(
Checked it was all turning the correct way and buzzed it over on the starter, took 2 seconds.
However this goes wrong when the cambelt sprocket isn't keyed or pinned at all. Bolt loosens, all timing lost.... ;(
Finally got this out! Just goes to show what you can do with the proper tools. After hanging off the end of a 2' foot scaffold pole, which in turn was attached to a 2' breaker bar, taking dozens of attempts, and cracking the webbing on the pulley I admitted failure.
Luckily I cheered myself up with a trip to Machine Mart which resulted in the purchasing of this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
which did the job in less than 60 seconds!!
Luckily I cheered myself up with a trip to Machine Mart which resulted in the purchasing of this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
which did the job in less than 60 seconds!!
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