Washing a Tuscan - special way?
Washing a Tuscan - special way?
Author
Discussion

pgttelford

Original Poster:

22 posts

205 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
quotequote all
Do any of you guys have any special method of cleaning your TVR? It appears to me that a blast with the hosepipe might not be the best idea especially if the seals around windows and doors are little dodgy.

I guess you don't want tonnes of water running into the fans and radiator or the engine compartment either.

I was perhaps going to give her a good soap down (err the Tuscan) and lightly sprinkle off the residue before drying with a cloth immediately. Maybe I'm being to precious here and she can take a good blast?

m3coupe

1,126 posts

233 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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I've never used a power sasher or hose pipe when washing mine, always rinse it down with a sponge, use the soap then use a watering can sparingly to wash them off apart from the roof where I use another sponge with clean water to rinse the soap away. Saves getting water leaks anywhere.

NCE 61

2,457 posts

310 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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Found the following works quiet well on the Tuscan.

1/ Rinse off with filtered rainwater using low pressure pump (2 Bar) and garden sprinkler.

2/ Wash with warm water & suitable detergent with Merguires wash mit using the two bucket method.

3/ Rinse again as per 1/.

4/ Dry using Meguires terry towls & synthetic shammy.

5/ Clean wheels with warm water & suitable detergent using a different wash mit rinse & dry.

Every third clean:-

6/ Polish bodywork with Dodo Juice, windows with Autoglym window cleaner except the rear screen pledge furniture polish seems to work well on that & wheels using Autoglym super resin polish.

pgttelford

Original Poster:

22 posts

205 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
quotequote all
Like it...

I had to google 'the two bucket method' and found this link.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...

My 'one bucket dirty sponge method' is evidently rubbish.


so called

9,160 posts

238 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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Bloody ell. Think I'll stick to paying someone else to wash it. biggrin

shep1001

4,620 posts

218 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
quotequote all
pgttelford said:
Do any of you guys have any special method of cleaning your TVR? It appears to me that a blast with the hosepipe might not be the best idea especially if the seals around windows and doors are little dodgy.

I guess you don't want tonnes of water running into the fans and radiator or the engine compartment either.

I was perhaps going to give her a good soap down (err the Tuscan) and lightly sprinkle off the residue before drying with a cloth immediately. Maybe I'm being to precious here and she can take a good blast?
I use a hose just be careful where you point it - don't use a pressure washer. Oh and don't use a wash mitt on the roof if you have the soft top. My navy hood is now covered in fury white bits!!!!

Daston

6,148 posts

232 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
quotequote all
NCE 61 said:
Found the following works quiet well on the Tuscan.

1/ Rinse off with filtered rainwater using low pressure pump (2 Bar) and garden sprinkler.

2/ Wash with warm water & suitable detergent with Merguires wash mit using the two bucket method.

3/ Rinse again as per 1/.

4/ Dry using Meguires terry towls & synthetic shammy.

5/ Clean wheels with warm water & suitable detergent using a different wash mit rinse & dry.

Every third clean:-

6/ Polish bodywork with Dodo Juice, windows with Autoglym window cleaner except the rear screen pledge furniture polish seems to work well on that & wheels using Autoglym super resin polish.
Pretty much the same as I do. I find Meguires PlastX great on the rear screen if you have any fine scratches on it.

Plus got some Poorboys wheel wax and boy it makes a difference! This is the front wheel off my 9 year old tuscan with 25k miles on it




Whitey

2,508 posts

313 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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My dealer includes washing the car as part of the service.

BDM

408 posts

211 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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http://www.detailingworld.co.uk


Dont use a sponge at all... Read some stuff on detailing world... I usualy foam mine first but not through a lance anymore but a glimour then then rinse then use a lambswool wash mit... Using a different one for the wheels etc. Then dry with a poorboys towel. Read the link above for more info LOADS of knowledge...

Edited by BDM on Wednesday 19th August 22:36

BDM

408 posts

211 months

Wednesday 19th August 2009
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Oh and if anyone here has a porter cable or a rotary. What compounds do you use? I have some slight marring and want get rid of it but not sure about the paint or working with fibre glass...

TOV!E

2,016 posts

263 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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I take mine to the east europeans £6.00 sorted......................

rens914

678 posts

260 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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BDM said:
Oh and if anyone here has a porter cable or a rotary. What compounds do you use? I have some slight marring and want get rid of it but not sure about the paint or working with fibre glass...
rotary ? is that a electrical polishing machine ! be carefull. the polyester can't cope as well with the heat a polishing machine gives as metal. it could crack and blister. Had that on a corvette. Ended up respraying the backside bacause the varnish come off

BDM

408 posts

211 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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Cool nice one... Yeh i dont have a rotary have a PC. Thought as much though... Will probably keep the speeds down on that and use a light compound as less time to break down. Cant see TVR paint being as hard as german.


SteveTusc

143 posts

224 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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BDM said:
Oh and if anyone here has a porter cable or a rotary. What compounds do you use? I have some slight marring and want get rid of it but not sure about the paint or working with fibre glass...
I've yet to do mine properly but had a little play with a test patch. Best combo I found was a Lake Country CCS light cut pad with Meg's #83 (using a PC). I used the slow cut method to keep heat down. Got around 85% correction with only the deep rds remaining. Mine is actually sprayed with a VW colour though so the paint was tough'ish to correct. Won't risk going more aggressive, I'll just put a couple of layers of something filler heavy like Vanilla Moose on it to mask the remaining rds.

Edited by SteveTusc on Thursday 20th August 12:52

GT TVR

1,627 posts

311 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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Sounds like an awful lot of work: I just hose it down, wash it (only one bucket), hose it again and put some Meguiar's quick carnuba wax on it. Job done, shines like a mirror.

Then drive it!

Edited by GT TVR on Thursday 20th August 13:01

BDM

408 posts

211 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
quotequote all
SteveTusc said:
BDM said:
Oh and if anyone here has a porter cable or a rotary. What compounds do you use? I have some slight marring and want get rid of it but not sure about the paint or working with fibre glass...
I've yet to do mine properly but had a little play with a test patch. Best combo I found was a Lake Country CCS light cut pad with Meg's #83 (using a PC). I used the slow cut method to keep heat down. Got around 85% correction with only the deep rds remaining. Mine is actually sprayed with a VW colour though so the paint was tough'ish to correct. Won't risk going more aggressive, I'll just put a couple of layers of something filler heavy like Vanilla Moose on it to mask the remaining rds.

Edited by SteveTusc on Thursday 20th August 12:52
Whats your final product wax or sealent.. ive been maskin mine with SRP... Might try this vanilla moose... smile

SteveTusc

143 posts

224 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
quotequote all
BDM said:
SteveTusc said:
BDM said:
Oh and if anyone here has a porter cable or a rotary. What compounds do you use? I have some slight marring and want get rid of it but not sure about the paint or working with fibre glass...
I've yet to do mine properly but had a little play with a test patch. Best combo I found was a Lake Country CCS light cut pad with Meg's #83 (using a PC). I used the slow cut method to keep heat down. Got around 85% correction with only the deep rds remaining. Mine is actually sprayed with a VW colour though so the paint was tough'ish to correct. Won't risk going more aggressive, I'll just put a couple of layers of something filler heavy like Vanilla Moose on it to mask the remaining rds.

Edited by SteveTusc on Thursday 20th August 12:52
Whats your final product wax or sealent.. ive been maskin mine with SRP... Might try this vanilla moose... smile
At the moment it's got sealent. I've put SRP then EGP on it. When I do the full correction I'll be putting Vic's Concours wax on it.

Robertjp

2,281 posts

254 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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I have decided to do mine on its return from its rebuild.

Route;

wash down (two bucket method!) microfibre mitt
dry with towel (not chammy)
use clay bar, swill off again if necessary
polish with autoglym SRP
wax with colinite 476
top up with a softer carnauba wax
detail with red mist or z8 if you really want to go to town.

That list is pretty cost effective and is meant to give good results. You can spend anything you want really - dodo juice is meant to be fantastic but the wax is £95 a tub!!!

All depends what you want really....i (sadly) enjoy washing the car!!!

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Thursday 20th August 2009
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I have a DA polisher. If you use one beware as TVR paint is classified as 'soft', therefore avoid cutting compounds. Use a light swirl remover and then a finishing compound. Menzerna or Meguiars would be my personal choice.


sf

650 posts

254 months

Saturday 22nd August 2009
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Best way is to cover as many miles as possible, with the short 6000 mile serveice intervals you may never have to wash it.