What to look for when buying a SH mini...?
Discussion
I, like many other people, have always dreamed of owning a Mini. After looking for quite a while I believe I've found 'the one'- a 1998 Mini Cooper S LE which seems to be in brilliant condition. However with a lack of mechanical knowledge and with few friends who have little more knowledge than I do, what do you need to look for?! People say about rust patches, but where are the biggies of rust patches which Minis are especially prone to? Owners say that there are no rust patches, and last July the car absolutely sailed through the MOT but I'd still like to know where you should look and what you should look for.
Ta!
Ta!
nice choice of mini anyway!
right main rust points are under the headlamps, around the scuttle panels, A panels, bottom of the doors, the sills, rear valance, bootfloor and around the rear subframe where it bolts to the floor.
Check both subframes are ok, and with minis of that age check the gearbox doesnt crunch, especially into second gear.
the sportspack minis also wear out wheel bearings a bit quicker due to the larger wheels so listen for any droning on the test drive.
Id also recommend finding your local mini club and joining them, and ask if anyone could come have a look at it with you as an independant person to help you out.
right main rust points are under the headlamps, around the scuttle panels, A panels, bottom of the doors, the sills, rear valance, bootfloor and around the rear subframe where it bolts to the floor.
Check both subframes are ok, and with minis of that age check the gearbox doesnt crunch, especially into second gear.
the sportspack minis also wear out wheel bearings a bit quicker due to the larger wheels so listen for any droning on the test drive.
Id also recommend finding your local mini club and joining them, and ask if anyone could come have a look at it with you as an independant person to help you out.
Difficult one - simple answer is someone who know's what they're looking at!
But as others have said - rust is number one scuttle panel is the worst, even if it looks good get inside and check around the eyeball vents - much nastiness can lurk there. Check sills thoroughly and don't be fooled by seemingly solid metal at minimum a mini is now 10 years old so an oversill is a distinct possibility - many have had bodges done that doesn't remove the original rot so the rust will be back. Door bottoms will have some rust - always do. Give the boot floor a good check too. Oldest hint in the book - check it over with a magnet....
Rear subframe rots for a pastime easily replaced but bear in mind new ones weigh in at thick end of £200 - rear valance also a classic rot spot but very cheap (I always rivet & seam seal them)
Engine wise the A series is fairly bullet proof but again no new engines for 10 years so drive it - it'll rattle away but provided a willing start, no smoking reasonably strong pull, smooth (ish) clutch and gearchange its probably ok. All minis leak oil - especially from the geabox remote seal but an engine plastered in it is rarely a good sign. (if a rebored lump that is more and more prevalent steer clear of 1380's - there's little point, a) everyone demands a premium for them, b) short of sleeving it back to a smaller bore the engine cannot be reworked again)
You can tell a lot about a mini from it's poise - difficult to quantify - but if it sits square it gives comfort that things are in reasonable order - are all the wheel to arch heights roughly the same, the rear wheels are not toeing out hugely etc.
Essentially every second, or many more, hand mini will need repair & maintenance - question is how much will it cost - and is it worth it to you? (sorry if that sounds severe but be aware of costs before committing to what may be a huge money pit to fix) lots more things to look out for to come no doubt!
But as others have said - rust is number one scuttle panel is the worst, even if it looks good get inside and check around the eyeball vents - much nastiness can lurk there. Check sills thoroughly and don't be fooled by seemingly solid metal at minimum a mini is now 10 years old so an oversill is a distinct possibility - many have had bodges done that doesn't remove the original rot so the rust will be back. Door bottoms will have some rust - always do. Give the boot floor a good check too. Oldest hint in the book - check it over with a magnet....
Rear subframe rots for a pastime easily replaced but bear in mind new ones weigh in at thick end of £200 - rear valance also a classic rot spot but very cheap (I always rivet & seam seal them)
Engine wise the A series is fairly bullet proof but again no new engines for 10 years so drive it - it'll rattle away but provided a willing start, no smoking reasonably strong pull, smooth (ish) clutch and gearchange its probably ok. All minis leak oil - especially from the geabox remote seal but an engine plastered in it is rarely a good sign. (if a rebored lump that is more and more prevalent steer clear of 1380's - there's little point, a) everyone demands a premium for them, b) short of sleeving it back to a smaller bore the engine cannot be reworked again)
You can tell a lot about a mini from it's poise - difficult to quantify - but if it sits square it gives comfort that things are in reasonable order - are all the wheel to arch heights roughly the same, the rear wheels are not toeing out hugely etc.
Essentially every second, or many more, hand mini will need repair & maintenance - question is how much will it cost - and is it worth it to you? (sorry if that sounds severe but be aware of costs before committing to what may be a huge money pit to fix) lots more things to look out for to come no doubt!
get a friend to follow it driving for a few miles to see if it crabs
twin points (9/96 on), have a real issue with the scuttle rusting under the screen seal, so dont just look for rust bubbles, look for wobbles in the rubber
twin point seats are smaller (narrower) than spi seats and further apart so shoulders can foul the seat belt top mount if you're quite broad
the twin point in standard form gets its top speed in 3rd gear! no matter which model
the engine is not really an a series like the older model, i think rumoured to have been based on a marina block?? but regardless is less tuneable because of the completely different block design.
not all of the twin point 'sports' sold were genuine 'sports' - there is a thread on this, and the opinions over time are quite watered down, but at Rover i used to be able to check the genuine ones from non.
The car will sit high if standard, compromising turn in.
my own opinion would get an spi, which were the models used in Mighty Minis etc but they all fundamentally are good.
oh, the twin points had terrible gearbox problems, often snapping mainshafts aswell as worse 2nd gear problems than before.
my tip for a twin point, buy a standard one, and if you spend anything at all, get the diff changed for a 3.4:1 or 3.2:1 which will transform it in most conditions beyond belief
twin points (9/96 on), have a real issue with the scuttle rusting under the screen seal, so dont just look for rust bubbles, look for wobbles in the rubber
twin point seats are smaller (narrower) than spi seats and further apart so shoulders can foul the seat belt top mount if you're quite broad
the twin point in standard form gets its top speed in 3rd gear! no matter which model
the engine is not really an a series like the older model, i think rumoured to have been based on a marina block?? but regardless is less tuneable because of the completely different block design.
not all of the twin point 'sports' sold were genuine 'sports' - there is a thread on this, and the opinions over time are quite watered down, but at Rover i used to be able to check the genuine ones from non.
The car will sit high if standard, compromising turn in.
my own opinion would get an spi, which were the models used in Mighty Minis etc but they all fundamentally are good.
oh, the twin points had terrible gearbox problems, often snapping mainshafts aswell as worse 2nd gear problems than before.
my tip for a twin point, buy a standard one, and if you spend anything at all, get the diff changed for a 3.4:1 or 3.2:1 which will transform it in most conditions beyond belief
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