Headlamp adjustment and rust proofing
Discussion
Hi,
A slightly random pair of questions, but...
Can anyone recommend a good way of getting the adjustment right on Seven-style headlamps? Mine are pointing in quite random directions at the moment and I wondered if there was an easy rule of thumb for setting the beams.
Secondly, I need to rust proof the chassis and De Dion assembly. Most of the original powder coat is still there, but it's been chipped in places following a trip into the gravel trap (or possibly several). What process would people recommend to seal it for the winter? I don't really want to do a full body-off, so it's largely a case of the best job I can do lying underneath the car.
Chris
A slightly random pair of questions, but...
Can anyone recommend a good way of getting the adjustment right on Seven-style headlamps? Mine are pointing in quite random directions at the moment and I wondered if there was an easy rule of thumb for setting the beams.
Secondly, I need to rust proof the chassis and De Dion assembly. Most of the original powder coat is still there, but it's been chipped in places following a trip into the gravel trap (or possibly several). What process would people recommend to seal it for the winter? I don't really want to do a full body-off, so it's largely a case of the best job I can do lying underneath the car.
Chris
Regards the headlights, and I am sure I'll be laughed at for this, but I usually use a new ish car (one you can trust) 10 feet from a wall at dusk, with the kit parked alongside and make the beams look the same in terms of hight and direction.
Not brilliant and I am sure there are better ways of doing this, but its never caused me an issue on MOT's
Not brilliant and I am sure there are better ways of doing this, but its never caused me an issue on MOT's
This is the rust-cure paint to use.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9...
There are other suppliers ...
Por-15 is supposed to be less prone to chipping than Hammerite, both products are designed to go straight onto the rusty surface, scrape off any loose rust, but they contain a chemical which forms a bond with and prevents the spread of rust.
Headlamp alignment.
Most dual filament headlamp dipping systems are designed so that if the headlamp is pointing directly ahead and level on main beam, then the dip beam will then have the correct pattern and spread.
So, find a wall you can drive up to on the level. Park the car nose on the the wall and measuring the height of the centre of the headlamp, place a cross on the wall exactly in the centre of each lamp.
Roll the car back 5 or 6 metres, then align the middle of the main beam pattern with each cross.
Once that's done, switch to dipped beam, and you will hopefully find the pattern gives no light above the right of each centre, with a beam spreading up and to the left of each centre mark.
The dipped beam pattern for each light will probably look like a partially illuminated circle. Imagine a clock face just below the centre of the spot marked on the wall, the dipped beam will only light up the area from 3 o'clock round to 10 o'clock.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9...
There are other suppliers ...
Por-15 is supposed to be less prone to chipping than Hammerite, both products are designed to go straight onto the rusty surface, scrape off any loose rust, but they contain a chemical which forms a bond with and prevents the spread of rust.
Headlamp alignment.
Most dual filament headlamp dipping systems are designed so that if the headlamp is pointing directly ahead and level on main beam, then the dip beam will then have the correct pattern and spread.
So, find a wall you can drive up to on the level. Park the car nose on the the wall and measuring the height of the centre of the headlamp, place a cross on the wall exactly in the centre of each lamp.
Roll the car back 5 or 6 metres, then align the middle of the main beam pattern with each cross.
Once that's done, switch to dipped beam, and you will hopefully find the pattern gives no light above the right of each centre, with a beam spreading up and to the left of each centre mark.
The dipped beam pattern for each light will probably look like a partially illuminated circle. Imagine a clock face just below the centre of the spot marked on the wall, the dipped beam will only light up the area from 3 o'clock round to 10 o'clock.
Edited by Paul Drawmer on Tuesday 1st September 17:10
I have just Hammerite'ed (aerosol, Satin black) my engine bay area as it was looking a bit scruffy and some surface rust on the chassis tubes. My engine is out but needs to go back in ASAP in time for my Zolder / Nurburgring trip this month so did not have a lot of time to do the ideal repairs, it was a bank holiday weeend and all that was open was Halfords!! Looks good, not sure how hardy it will ultimately be but easy enough in the future to touch up.
Paul Drawmer said:
Por-15 is supposed to be less prone to chipping than Hammerite, both products are designed to go straight onto the rusty surface, scrape off any loose rust, but they contain a chemical which forms a bond with and prevents the spread of rust.
Do you reckon it's best to remove the powder coat completely from sections of the tube? For example, on a square section tube maybe strip the easy-to-get-to faces completely and then brush on the paint?Thanks for the headlamp ideas. The area around my garage isn't entirely flat, so I might just start by marking out the beam heights of my (recently MOT'd) daily driver and set both to that height an equal distance out from the centreline. I haven't looked yet, but I presume the process of physically adjusting Caterham headlamps is pretty straightforward?
[quote=Chris71
Thanks for the headlamp ideas. The area around my garage isn't entirely flat, so I might just start by marking out the beam heights of my (recently MOT'd) daily driver and set both to that height an equal distance out from the centreline. I haven't looked yet, but I presume the process of physically adjusting Caterham headlamps is pretty straightforward?
[/quote]
The adjustment is probably done by removing the chrome ring and there will be a couple of screws. Not sure that setting the height from your daily driver and using that for another car will work. You will need to compensate for the difference in the centre heights of the lights. Otherwise you may find your caterham headlights pointing upwards and not at the road.
Thanks for the headlamp ideas. The area around my garage isn't entirely flat, so I might just start by marking out the beam heights of my (recently MOT'd) daily driver and set both to that height an equal distance out from the centreline. I haven't looked yet, but I presume the process of physically adjusting Caterham headlamps is pretty straightforward?
[/quote]
The adjustment is probably done by removing the chrome ring and there will be a couple of screws. Not sure that setting the height from your daily driver and using that for another car will work. You will need to compensate for the difference in the centre heights of the lights. Otherwise you may find your caterham headlights pointing upwards and not at the road.
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff