Starter motor sticking
Discussion
siwes said:
Hi
are you sure the motor is sticking and its not bad connections
mine used to be the same , i eventually got under the can and cleaned and retightened every connection and the problem has gone , worth trying
regards
simon
No I'm not at all sure what's happening but it does only do it when the engine has been running for more than say 20 mins, if I leave it for between 10-30 mins, it starts. Retightening the connections sounds like it might be worth trying though before anything else.
joolzb said:
No I'm not at all sure what's happening but it does only do it when the engine has been running for more than say 20 mins, if I leave it for between 10-30 mins, it starts.
Sounds like the typical knackered starter solenoid problem to me. If you get it sorted before it packs up completely and leaves you stranded, you have the luxury of getting your existing starter motor reconditioned for about 80 quid. Otherwise you'll have to pay 300 quid for a new one, which is what happened to me
Pete
pete said:
Sounds like the typical knackered starter solenoid problem to me. If you get it sorted before it packs up completely and leaves you stranded, you have the luxury of getting your existing starter motor reconditioned for about 80 quid. Otherwise you'll have to pay 300 quid for a new one, which is what happened to me![]()
Pete
I'm just wondering if re-conditioning is a worth while option, is it likely to fix the problem for good or do problems re-occur. From a monetary perspective I'd rather do that but not if the thing's totally knack'd. I've got little experience of these problems so am interested in what other people have done.
I guess I should have fitted the heat shield earlier

Ballistic Banana said:couldnt have put it better BB.id definately go for a new one after previous experience of getting through 4 re-con units in as many months on my old chimp.and these were from a well known specialist.now i know that my experience isnt the norm,but it goes to show how good a re-con needs to be to get a decent life out of it.id buy new next time without question,more for piece of mind than anything else.
5ltr-chim said:
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours so I bought one from HERE NEW - £50 plus p&p &vat
Bloody hell thats cheap.
Simon
I knew that they were about to bring a newer one out soon, as when I went to my local LRover dealer a few months ago they couldnt get hold of a replacement for mine which is just over a year old and starting to play up me thinks,as I have tested everything else.
They could get hold of the Brushes and a few other parts but notthe whole thing. Plus it would cost a round £250-£300
.
It makes me wonder though what sort of quality it is gonna be for that price? Thats why I was asking about how long its been on Time and Miles.
Seen teh same oen on other LR sites for £120...
Simon( of to order one anyhow)
They could get hold of the Brushes and a few other parts but notthe whole thing. Plus it would cost a round £250-£300
. It makes me wonder though what sort of quality it is gonna be for that price? Thats why I was asking about how long its been on Time and Miles.
Seen teh same oen on other LR sites for £120...
Simon( of to order one anyhow)
5ltr-chim said:
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours
Funny enough that seems pretty familiar, mines not quite that bad at the mo (15 mins before heat shield and now 30+ mins).
Seems like I have three options here
1) To get my current one recon'd. I'm interested if anybody thinks I'm wasting my time with the symptoms I've described i.e. starts ok when cold no probs but 30 mins drive and it's stuck
2) Take a bit of a risk on the interweb one. (from reading the bible it appears that there were a number that were used over time so looks like I might end up with the wrong one?)
3) Just go and get a fecking new one
BTW, has anyone removed and re-fitted this themselves, looks pretty simple in the bible albeit possibly a bit fiddly.
>> Edited by joolzb on Monday 5th January 21:29
joolzb said:
2) Take a bit of a risk on the interweb one. (from reading the bible it appears that there were a number that were used over time so looks like I might end up with the wrong one?)
BTW, has anyone removed and re-fitted this themselves, looks pretty simple in the bible albeit possibly a bit fiddly.
>> Edited by joolzb on Monday 5th January 21:29
I think the one on The website is a replacement one for all the ones they did, as told by local dealer a while back. so would hope it fits and does seem to an the 97 Chimeara.
I have changed mine in the past and the only fiddly part is reaching the top Bolt(allen Bolt) got some one to guide me in from above as you need to be under the car to actually reach it. Also it is advised to change these allen bolts for normall ones.
Cant remember the size of the top of my head.
BB
There were two different ones as far as I could establish. Earlier ones had a Lucas and later have a Bosch (smaller diameter). Mine was definately a Bosch ('97 500)
Removal/replacement is not difficult - the longest part is getting the thing up high enough to get the axle stands under.
From my experience you'll need two 6" extensions for your ratchet, a 8mm hex bit for the bolts and a 12mm spanner for the positive connection.
Ensure the engine is cool enough not to burn and the car safely on stands. Disconnect the battery - leaving a door open or roof off.
Undo 12mm nut remove two large wires and pull lucas connect with small wire from solenoid. Then undo bolts. Move starter towards front of car and tilt through opening.
Then as they say in the Haynes manuals - reassembly is the reverse .... etc ...
5ltr-chim said:
Dare I say that it's easy enough that if you haven't done it by the next Virginia Waters meet in Feb - give me a shout a day or two before and I could possibly be persuaded to give a demo in the carpark! (i.e. change it for you)
Cheers, that's a bloody kind offer. I will try and get it done before then though but don't dismiss an email

Thought I'd update this thread as my car is no longer suffering from hot start probs(fingers crossed).
Had the car serviced last week and the mechanic suspected the starter motor itself(a newish one from Brockwells).
Put the old Bosch starter on yesterday and it's running fine. I can't say what the problem was because I made a few mods whilst the new starter was fitted which were
1) New earth from battery to block.
2) Voltage boosted to starter solenoid via ign.
3) Replaced alternator fuse to battery and cleaned up all the connections.
A massive thanks to David Beer (yet again) who came up with the ideas and the solenoid booster.
Had the car serviced last week and the mechanic suspected the starter motor itself(a newish one from Brockwells).
Put the old Bosch starter on yesterday and it's running fine. I can't say what the problem was because I made a few mods whilst the new starter was fitted which were
1) New earth from battery to block.
2) Voltage boosted to starter solenoid via ign.
3) Replaced alternator fuse to battery and cleaned up all the connections.
A massive thanks to David Beer (yet again) who came up with the ideas and the solenoid booster.
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). I believe he removed it before so hopefully the bolts should shift easily.