Discussion
I have just sold my Porsche and I want to buy a classic Merc possibly a W124 Coupe to use as my daily driver.
I know it will not have the sporty nature or performance of the Porsche, but I would appreciate some feedback from owners on the driving experience and what the car is like to "live with" on a daily basis
Thanks
Steady
I know it will not have the sporty nature or performance of the Porsche, but I would appreciate some feedback from owners on the driving experience and what the car is like to "live with" on a daily basis
Thanks
Steady
Well......where do I start?
I was running my E320 Coupe as a daily driver from just under 3 and a half years (covering just over 40k miles). Excellent machine, silky smooth engine, wonderful gearbox and bloody comfortable!
I would recommend a 6-cylinder version, as they are the smoothest - 300CE, 300CE-24 or 320CE/E320 Coupe.
The 230CE and 22CE/E220 Coupe are good 4-cylinder motors, although they sound a little rough.
Don't expect super MPG figures from any of the engines - my E320 usually gives around 280-300 miles per 70 litre tank (that works out to around low 20s for MPG).
I ran a 230E saloon before this car, and that would only get around 360-380 miles per tank, so only late 20s for MPG.
Having said that, if taken on a run, I've managed up to 25MPG in the 320 and 30MPG in the 230.
If you want to keep an ounce of handling, I would try to find a car with Sportline suspension. I've driven standard sprung cars, and my 230E had the Sportline chassis. The Sportline was so much better - it has 15mm lower springs, thicker front anti-roll bara quicker steering box and wider alloys and tyres (7J with 205 wide tyres vs. 6.5J 195 tyres). A smaller steering wheel and some times a Sportline branded gear know completed the Sportline options for the 124 Coupe.
Things to watch for:
Headgaskets are the big thing on 4- and 6-cylinder engines from this era (6 pots moreso).
Make sure the gearbox isn't clunky, or over-revs during it's change - that means a gearbox rebuild!
Rust is main thing on these C124s, too. The front arches are the main area that rust.
Make sure any electrics work correctly.
They are the major points, if you would like to know anything, please ask
Darren
I was running my E320 Coupe as a daily driver from just under 3 and a half years (covering just over 40k miles). Excellent machine, silky smooth engine, wonderful gearbox and bloody comfortable!
I would recommend a 6-cylinder version, as they are the smoothest - 300CE, 300CE-24 or 320CE/E320 Coupe.
The 230CE and 22CE/E220 Coupe are good 4-cylinder motors, although they sound a little rough.
Don't expect super MPG figures from any of the engines - my E320 usually gives around 280-300 miles per 70 litre tank (that works out to around low 20s for MPG).
I ran a 230E saloon before this car, and that would only get around 360-380 miles per tank, so only late 20s for MPG.
Having said that, if taken on a run, I've managed up to 25MPG in the 320 and 30MPG in the 230.
If you want to keep an ounce of handling, I would try to find a car with Sportline suspension. I've driven standard sprung cars, and my 230E had the Sportline chassis. The Sportline was so much better - it has 15mm lower springs, thicker front anti-roll bara quicker steering box and wider alloys and tyres (7J with 205 wide tyres vs. 6.5J 195 tyres). A smaller steering wheel and some times a Sportline branded gear know completed the Sportline options for the 124 Coupe.
Things to watch for:
Headgaskets are the big thing on 4- and 6-cylinder engines from this era (6 pots moreso).
Make sure the gearbox isn't clunky, or over-revs during it's change - that means a gearbox rebuild!
Rust is main thing on these C124s, too. The front arches are the main area that rust.
Make sure any electrics work correctly.
They are the major points, if you would like to know anything, please ask
Darren
I bought my 124 Coupe a couple of months ago and use it most days. Its a late E320 with Sportline and some rather nice genuine 16'' AMG alloys.
I've always loved the 124 shape Mercs, especially the Coupe and sold a 'faster' car (modified Fiat Coupe Turbo) to get one. Driving experience like chalk and cheese. Its a great cruiser with a wafting, cosseting ride and quiet engine, but when you get it into its stride, its quick. Would also echo the comments on Sportline, I drove one with and one without and the difference was quite marked. I'm not saying I can really chuck mine about, but it does feel a lot more planted on fast corners. Having said that, I'm just enjoying wafting about, its a very comfortable car with a real air of quality.
Apart from the other issues Darren has mentioned, I'd also watch for delamination on the rear windscreen - you can see a milky residue at the side edge if happening. It will impact on the heating function of the screen and a new rear Coupe screen can be costly.
I'm having to replace the aircon condenser, which I also believe it a reasonably common issue. If its a 320, check the wiring loom.
Good luck with the search, you'll see values are quite variable, but don't be put off too much by high mileages, try and get the best condition one going, I think they are one of the best everyday 'classics'.
I've always loved the 124 shape Mercs, especially the Coupe and sold a 'faster' car (modified Fiat Coupe Turbo) to get one. Driving experience like chalk and cheese. Its a great cruiser with a wafting, cosseting ride and quiet engine, but when you get it into its stride, its quick. Would also echo the comments on Sportline, I drove one with and one without and the difference was quite marked. I'm not saying I can really chuck mine about, but it does feel a lot more planted on fast corners. Having said that, I'm just enjoying wafting about, its a very comfortable car with a real air of quality.
Apart from the other issues Darren has mentioned, I'd also watch for delamination on the rear windscreen - you can see a milky residue at the side edge if happening. It will impact on the heating function of the screen and a new rear Coupe screen can be costly.
I'm having to replace the aircon condenser, which I also believe it a reasonably common issue. If its a 320, check the wiring loom.
Good luck with the search, you'll see values are quite variable, but don't be put off too much by high mileages, try and get the best condition one going, I think they are one of the best everyday 'classics'.
Edited by Highway Star on Thursday 3rd September 14:30
Edited by Highway Star on Thursday 3rd September 14:31
Fantastic cars , the 124`s . They have a formidable reputation which , on the evidence provided by my cars is well deserved.
I have had a 1995 220 coupe for about a year with standard suspension and it`s a great cruiser . Very refined and economy approaching the mid 30`s for my day to day use which for a heavy car is outstanding .
Keep an eye out for (cosmetic) rust in the front wings , bonnet and usual places , but rest assured that for the 4 cylinder cars at least , parts from specialists such as GSF car pars are very cheap . Make sure all the electric pillarless windows work properly and that the complex seals are supple enough to prevent leaks . Mine has always attracted more day to day comments than my C36 and is the type of car which looks great anywhere . Buy exclusively on condition , not mileage , and you`ll have a depreciation proof motor car with a huge feel good factor
I have had a 1995 220 coupe for about a year with standard suspension and it`s a great cruiser . Very refined and economy approaching the mid 30`s for my day to day use which for a heavy car is outstanding .
Keep an eye out for (cosmetic) rust in the front wings , bonnet and usual places , but rest assured that for the 4 cylinder cars at least , parts from specialists such as GSF car pars are very cheap . Make sure all the electric pillarless windows work properly and that the complex seals are supple enough to prevent leaks . Mine has always attracted more day to day comments than my C36 and is the type of car which looks great anywhere . Buy exclusively on condition , not mileage , and you`ll have a depreciation proof motor car with a huge feel good factor
I regularly drive (and am about to buy) a w124 320TE with the sportline chassis. The w124 in any guise is just about my favourite car of all time. I particularly like the clean and unadorned design inside and out, the build quaility, and the perfect compromise of pace and grace.
No w124 is a sports car. The sportline chassis significantly stiffens things up (especially when teamed with the sportline seating--in Mercs of this era the seat springing was tuned to match the chassis springing) but the car remains very comfortable, especially when compared to modern sporting saloons. I think the chassis' talents remain hidden until you press on: these cars feel like waft-mobiles, but they can really pick up their skirts and run. I remember years ago, 1990-ish, hustling a 300D across rural France in the rain and striking an almighty bump while flying round a tight bend. I thought the rear-end would break away and was all ready to pick the thing out of the hedgebut, no, it had stacks in reserve!
Likewise the motor. The m104 is an early 4-valve motor with the real go coming on tap high up the rev range. If you use the engine's upper reaches (4,000 to 6,750rpm), you can make these cars fly, and they have a beautiful, traditional, almost 60s Jag-like six-cylinder exhaust note to go with it. The way to drive them fast is to use the transmission selector manually: it was made for this purpose. Often I just lock it in third and use the throttle to control the car.
As I say: these cars hide their talents. Drive one for a day and you will not see what the fuss is about. Borrow one for a month and you might begin to understand. Keep one for a year and you'll never be without a w124. They are extraordinarily accomplished cars. As Car magazine put it in GBU: "Good to drive, better to own".
They are 20+ years old now, though, so buy the best you can find and be prepared to spend more...
No w124 is a sports car. The sportline chassis significantly stiffens things up (especially when teamed with the sportline seating--in Mercs of this era the seat springing was tuned to match the chassis springing) but the car remains very comfortable, especially when compared to modern sporting saloons. I think the chassis' talents remain hidden until you press on: these cars feel like waft-mobiles, but they can really pick up their skirts and run. I remember years ago, 1990-ish, hustling a 300D across rural France in the rain and striking an almighty bump while flying round a tight bend. I thought the rear-end would break away and was all ready to pick the thing out of the hedgebut, no, it had stacks in reserve!
Likewise the motor. The m104 is an early 4-valve motor with the real go coming on tap high up the rev range. If you use the engine's upper reaches (4,000 to 6,750rpm), you can make these cars fly, and they have a beautiful, traditional, almost 60s Jag-like six-cylinder exhaust note to go with it. The way to drive them fast is to use the transmission selector manually: it was made for this purpose. Often I just lock it in third and use the throttle to control the car.
As I say: these cars hide their talents. Drive one for a day and you will not see what the fuss is about. Borrow one for a month and you might begin to understand. Keep one for a year and you'll never be without a w124. They are extraordinarily accomplished cars. As Car magazine put it in GBU: "Good to drive, better to own".
They are 20+ years old now, though, so buy the best you can find and be prepared to spend more...
We are lucky enough to have a convertible with a hardtop,sportline and 5 speed box so best of both worlds.
Everything that has been said before reflects these cars as being a true quality classic.
I would only add one other small point to watch and that is the front A pillar, rust can get past the seal and under the windscreen. We had a new screen fitted andwas able to treat the rust prior to refitting. It was not serious but needed attention.
There are one or two specialits out there but they look for substantially higher prices, maybe worth a visit to get a feel of what is around.
Everything that has been said before reflects these cars as being a true quality classic.
I would only add one other small point to watch and that is the front A pillar, rust can get past the seal and under the windscreen. We had a new screen fitted andwas able to treat the rust prior to refitting. It was not serious but needed attention.
There are one or two specialits out there but they look for substantially higher prices, maybe worth a visit to get a feel of what is around.
I had an E320 coupe as a daily driver and loved it. In addition to the good advice above, take off the jacking hole covers on either ends of the sills and check for rust. Based purely on observation, I reckon that the degree of lamination to the rear screen is a good indication of the condition of the body in general (unless it has been replaced of course). For some reason, which I never got to the bottom of, and which seems quite common, the front passenger footwell filled with water after rain. It didn't cause any rust, but left long enough would.
74merc said:
For some reason, which I never got to the bottom of, and which seems quite common, the front passenger footwell filled with water after rain.
You had a blocked drainage hole, my dear fellow! I happened to me, and that was traced to be the problem.Another good piece of advice during ownership - check the drainage points. I now have mine checked every time it's in for a service
Darren
One of the biggest problem areas that many people would never think to check is the sunroof drains. These can rust or become blocked.
This leads to leaking from the headlining and in the footwell; in the long term the windscreen frame will rust. Repair is extremely difficult because the sunroof cassette has to come out and a new one go in which requires the removal of the rear windscreen. (Much easier in my estate car, though!)
You can check for this problem by opening the sunroof and pouring water into the jamb at the front corners. It should drain out just behind the front wheel.
This leads to leaking from the headlining and in the footwell; in the long term the windscreen frame will rust. Repair is extremely difficult because the sunroof cassette has to come out and a new one go in which requires the removal of the rear windscreen. (Much easier in my estate car, though!)
You can check for this problem by opening the sunroof and pouring water into the jamb at the front corners. It should drain out just behind the front wheel.
Oldish thread, but worthy of a resurrection.
Now the 993 has gone, in keeping with ny name Ive just bought a 1993 K reg Silver 230ce.
Cloth interior, I bought it off ebay for five and a half. And thats not grand by the way.
12mths mot, 2 mths tax.
Blue check trim.
It is truly marvelous.
Most beautifull car Ive had bar the 911's, with the windows down, and the roof open it looks and feels marvellous.
Got it cheap because of rear suspension knock on one side, and the fact that it had to be picked up in Ledbury.
So a 3 hour journey from Padington later, I picked it up, got £200 off the price, and drove it 150 miles home at approximately 30mpg, never missed a beat.
It started first time next morning.
Its got 135k on it.
One family owned from new, Full history to 110k, then this guy bought it, and ran it upo between Cornwall and L:edvbury for a year, and put 24k on it.
One rear shock from Eurocarparts later, [£29] it run without fault, with everything working, bar one seat belt butler. Passenger side. If anyone has any tricks to fix these, Id love to hear it. There must be some fault, Im guessing it may be a relay as Ive seen one for sale on ebay for £25
Ive binned the bus steering wheel, and bought a beautiful wooden one off e abay, to say the cars very good is a complete understatement.
Now the 993 has gone, in keeping with ny name Ive just bought a 1993 K reg Silver 230ce.
Cloth interior, I bought it off ebay for five and a half. And thats not grand by the way.
12mths mot, 2 mths tax.
Blue check trim.
It is truly marvelous.
Most beautifull car Ive had bar the 911's, with the windows down, and the roof open it looks and feels marvellous.
Got it cheap because of rear suspension knock on one side, and the fact that it had to be picked up in Ledbury.
So a 3 hour journey from Padington later, I picked it up, got £200 off the price, and drove it 150 miles home at approximately 30mpg, never missed a beat.
It started first time next morning.
Its got 135k on it.
One family owned from new, Full history to 110k, then this guy bought it, and ran it upo between Cornwall and L:edvbury for a year, and put 24k on it.
One rear shock from Eurocarparts later, [£29] it run without fault, with everything working, bar one seat belt butler. Passenger side. If anyone has any tricks to fix these, Id love to hear it. There must be some fault, Im guessing it may be a relay as Ive seen one for sale on ebay for £25
Ive binned the bus steering wheel, and bought a beautiful wooden one off e abay, to say the cars very good is a complete understatement.
stuttgartmetal said:
Oldish thread, but worthy of a resurrection.
Now the 993 has gone, in keeping with ny name Ive just bought a 1993 K reg Silver 230ce.
Cloth interior, I bought it off ebay for five and a half. And thats not grand by the way.
12mths mot, 2 mths tax.
Blue check trim.
It is truly marvelous.
Most beautifull car Ive had bar the 911's, with the windows down, and the roof open it looks and feels marvellous.
Got it cheap because of rear suspension knock on one side, and the fact that it had to be picked up in Ledbury.
So a 3 hour journey from Padington later, I picked it up, got £200 off the price, and drove it 150 miles home at approximately 30mpg, never missed a beat.
It started first time next morning.
Its got 135k on it.
One family owned from new, Full history to 110k, then this guy bought it, and ran it upo between Cornwall and L:edvbury for a year, and put 24k on it.
One rear shock from Eurocarparts later, [£29] it run without fault, with everything working, bar one seat belt butler. Passenger side. If anyone has any tricks to fix these, Id love to hear it. There must be some fault, Im guessing it may be a relay as Ive seen one for sale on ebay for £25
Ive binned the bus steering wheel, and bought a beautiful wooden one off e abay, to say the cars very good is a complete understatement.
Seat belt ECU. There is one on each side, located behind the internal rear side trim. Very easy. New ones are £45 at www.starpartz.co.uk. Shouldn't you replace shocks in pairs?Now the 993 has gone, in keeping with ny name Ive just bought a 1993 K reg Silver 230ce.
Cloth interior, I bought it off ebay for five and a half. And thats not grand by the way.
12mths mot, 2 mths tax.
Blue check trim.
It is truly marvelous.
Most beautifull car Ive had bar the 911's, with the windows down, and the roof open it looks and feels marvellous.
Got it cheap because of rear suspension knock on one side, and the fact that it had to be picked up in Ledbury.
So a 3 hour journey from Padington later, I picked it up, got £200 off the price, and drove it 150 miles home at approximately 30mpg, never missed a beat.
It started first time next morning.
Its got 135k on it.
One family owned from new, Full history to 110k, then this guy bought it, and ran it upo between Cornwall and L:edvbury for a year, and put 24k on it.
One rear shock from Eurocarparts later, [£29] it run without fault, with everything working, bar one seat belt butler. Passenger side. If anyone has any tricks to fix these, Id love to hear it. There must be some fault, Im guessing it may be a relay as Ive seen one for sale on ebay for £25
Ive binned the bus steering wheel, and bought a beautiful wooden one off e abay, to say the cars very good is a complete understatement.
You certainly should.
I removed the shock, still looked like new, and it was all in full working order, just the bush at the bottom link had split, causing the clunk.
I replaced it with exactly the same make shock.
They'd been changed about 14 months ago, and still like new.
Im having all the springs off it within the next few weeks, and putting some minus 30mm ones on it, and assess the shocks then. Probably discs and pads at the same time. I mean, at GSF or EuroCP prices, you'd be a fool not to.
If Im not mistaken most of these parts are e class generic, and peanuts.
Fantastic Car.
I removed the shock, still looked like new, and it was all in full working order, just the bush at the bottom link had split, causing the clunk.
I replaced it with exactly the same make shock.
They'd been changed about 14 months ago, and still like new.
Im having all the springs off it within the next few weeks, and putting some minus 30mm ones on it, and assess the shocks then. Probably discs and pads at the same time. I mean, at GSF or EuroCP prices, you'd be a fool not to.
If Im not mistaken most of these parts are e class generic, and peanuts.
Fantastic Car.
i have just put in a new post (about 1 hour ago ) re replacement front springs/discs/pads for my 320 w124 coupe (1994)
its done about 200,000 miles
there are no signs of any leaking of the dampers, but the suggestion on this thread that non-star ,good quality dampers are available at a reasonable price , makes me wonder if i should be changing the rear springs and all 4 dampers as well
any thoughts re this?
how much labour is involved in changing springs and dampers on a w124 coupe?
its done about 200,000 miles
there are no signs of any leaking of the dampers, but the suggestion on this thread that non-star ,good quality dampers are available at a reasonable price , makes me wonder if i should be changing the rear springs and all 4 dampers as well
any thoughts re this?
how much labour is involved in changing springs and dampers on a w124 coupe?
The dampers are pretty easy front and rear because you don't have to take the springs out. I did the fronts, along with the top mounts. It made a huge difference. First side took about an hour. Second side, when I'd figured out what I was doing, took about 30mins. And I am an idiot. I used Bilstein dampers and Febi top mounts. These were about 66% of the price of MB parts but since Bilstein make the dampers for Merc, the only difference is the absence of a star marking. Make sure you get the right ones.
If you've got just over £9k to spend this might be worth a look
http://www.ccbenz.co.uk/30621/124458.html
I think it looks stunning in this colour!
http://www.ccbenz.co.uk/30621/124458.html
I think it looks stunning in this colour!
Waft-tastic. I always wanted one but never found a good one when I was looking.
Here's what I found with them.
With the 4-pots go for a 220, the engine is so much better than the 230 with more torque low-down. Also with a 220, you definitely have a duplex chain fitted, with the 230s some have a simplex chain and that can be prone to stretching.
All 6 cylinders will have had a new head gasket or will need one and probably will need a new rocker gasket as well - they all seem to seep oil at the front. Don't let this put you off. For some reason the 300-24s are not as popular but they really are no different to the 320. The 300 is smooth but a bit sluggish in comparison to the 24V models.
An E36 coupe is the ultimate but you'll pay for it.
Sportline? Hmm. A nice to have in my books (it has a quicker steering rack IIRC) but you're sort of missing the point to the CE - it's about touring fast and wafting. If you want to attack the twisties, a CE isn't for you.
They're all getting a bit old now and rust is beginning to be an issue. Not quite SEC-scale problems but you'll end up sorting the wings out at some point. And the rubber seals which might be [ast their prime. Chances are at least one of the arms that offer up the seatbelt will be broken.
Aircon is nice if it works but if you want to avoid extra expense of ownership, get one with cloth interior and just drive with all the windows down and the sunroof open - just as effective IMHO.
Here's what I found with them.
With the 4-pots go for a 220, the engine is so much better than the 230 with more torque low-down. Also with a 220, you definitely have a duplex chain fitted, with the 230s some have a simplex chain and that can be prone to stretching.
All 6 cylinders will have had a new head gasket or will need one and probably will need a new rocker gasket as well - they all seem to seep oil at the front. Don't let this put you off. For some reason the 300-24s are not as popular but they really are no different to the 320. The 300 is smooth but a bit sluggish in comparison to the 24V models.
An E36 coupe is the ultimate but you'll pay for it.
Sportline? Hmm. A nice to have in my books (it has a quicker steering rack IIRC) but you're sort of missing the point to the CE - it's about touring fast and wafting. If you want to attack the twisties, a CE isn't for you.
They're all getting a bit old now and rust is beginning to be an issue. Not quite SEC-scale problems but you'll end up sorting the wings out at some point. And the rubber seals which might be [ast their prime. Chances are at least one of the arms that offer up the seatbelt will be broken.
Aircon is nice if it works but if you want to avoid extra expense of ownership, get one with cloth interior and just drive with all the windows down and the sunroof open - just as effective IMHO.
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