Wastegate Actuator
Discussion
The devil said:
Got my new actuator Rear turbo) from Universal Turbos, good stuff, straight out to the car with spanner in hand, How much do I have to remove to get to the bolts that hold it on, seems to be buried in the turbo.
Andy
Nothing, i suppose you could take the wheel off to make it easier.Andy
Well, what a pain in the you know where,
Removed the intercooler housing to gain access, disconnected the turbo water pipes to gain access to the top bolt but to get to the bottom bolt, murder, it seems to be a 10mm spanner but you need a slim spanner to get on it but it is so tight its a knuckle breaking job.
still another day tomorrow
Removed the intercooler housing to gain access, disconnected the turbo water pipes to gain access to the top bolt but to get to the bottom bolt, murder, it seems to be a 10mm spanner but you need a slim spanner to get on it but it is so tight its a knuckle breaking job.
still another day tomorrow
I don't know if your turbos are the same as the ones on the US cars, but I usually swap the actuators by leaving the bracket in place and just changing the actuators themselves. Remove the vacuum line, pop off the small e-clip that holds the actuator rod to the wastegate, then undo the two nuts that flank the actuator rod. Remove the old actuator, test fit the new one, adjust the rod until the preload on the wastegate door is correct. Put on the two nuts, pop in the e-clip, replace the vacuum line, and it's all done.
Right, job done but it was not as easy as first thought.
We ended up removing the rear clam, the intercooler box , the exhaust pipe section from the rear turbo was removed and then we had to disconnect the water cooler and oil pipes to the turbo and then the turbo itself.
Once we had it out on the deck we soon had the new actuator on, the original circlip had rotted away so a new one was found.
i have some pictures which I will get posted asap, I have taken it out for a run and it does seem to woosh more. So as i said job done.
We ended up removing the rear clam, the intercooler box , the exhaust pipe section from the rear turbo was removed and then we had to disconnect the water cooler and oil pipes to the turbo and then the turbo itself.
Once we had it out on the deck we soon had the new actuator on, the original circlip had rotted away so a new one was found.
i have some pictures which I will get posted asap, I have taken it out for a run and it does seem to woosh more. So as i said job done.
Pictures
Top picture
you can see to the right of the bolt head (water cooling pipe) how small the gap is to get a spanner in
Botton picture
There are 2 bolts that hold the actuator onto the turbo, the top one is easy to get to, the lower one which is left of the exhaust stud is the pig, if you are working from the drivers side wheel then the bolts are between the exhaust side and the induction side. to the right would be the exhaust manifold, above is the intercooler box, so not too accesible
Top picture
you can see to the right of the bolt head (water cooling pipe) how small the gap is to get a spanner in
Botton picture
There are 2 bolts that hold the actuator onto the turbo, the top one is easy to get to, the lower one which is left of the exhaust stud is the pig, if you are working from the drivers side wheel then the bolts are between the exhaust side and the induction side. to the right would be the exhaust manifold, above is the intercooler box, so not too accesible
Edited by The devil on Friday 4th September 15:43
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