Discussion
Ok, the time has arrived to replace my top and bottom ball joints on my 2.5.
Can anyone tell me where I can order them from please? I believe the top one is from a Metro but I need to be able to contact someone and say 'could you send me the correct ball joints for a 2.5 Noble please?'
I'm sure Metro ball joints probably varied over the years and I don't need the confusion. Thankyou in advance.
(Here's praying you don't tell me to contact Noble. They are gonna need to fund the build of the M600 with something and I reckon ball joints could be just a little pricey!)
Can anyone tell me where I can order them from please? I believe the top one is from a Metro but I need to be able to contact someone and say 'could you send me the correct ball joints for a 2.5 Noble please?'
I'm sure Metro ball joints probably varied over the years and I don't need the confusion. Thankyou in advance.
(Here's praying you don't tell me to contact Noble. They are gonna need to fund the build of the M600 with something and I reckon ball joints could be just a little pricey!)
Not sure I can help on the best supply route, but here's a bit of additional info that might be of value for the bottom ball joints.
On some ball joints, the shoulder is thinner than the original and this leaves a gap between the ball joint and the circlip that retains it. The ball joint has to be pressed in and the likelihood of it working loose is minimal, however for piece of mind I made a spacer to fill this gap when I did mine (and mine WERE supplied by Noble)
Good luck
On some ball joints, the shoulder is thinner than the original and this leaves a gap between the ball joint and the circlip that retains it. The ball joint has to be pressed in and the likelihood of it working loose is minimal, however for piece of mind I made a spacer to fill this gap when I did mine (and mine WERE supplied by Noble)
Good luck
Looked at the Nobleparts website but couldn't find the part numbers, only the reference to one being from a Metro. Also saw Noblebenn's question about them. Perhaps someone emailed you the part numbers?
If you've still got your receipts for them and the parts numbers are on it, any chance of posting it on here please?
Cheers
If you've still got your receipts for them and the parts numbers are on it, any chance of posting it on here please?
Cheers
Edited by bernhund on Thursday 10th September 07:38
Ok, just to confirm for those interested. I purchased pattern Rover 100 ball joints for my 2.5 and they were spot on. Easy to fit and cheap. These are the top joints only. They have almost eliminated my creaky steering and were definately worn.
I have noticed when stationary a very tiny creak as I first start to turn the steering wheel and then no more. So I imagine something else, possibly the rack, is causing the creak and the ball joints have taken the strain off it? A little more investigation I would say, but nothing to be concerned with.
I have noticed when stationary a very tiny creak as I first start to turn the steering wheel and then no more. So I imagine something else, possibly the rack, is causing the creak and the ball joints have taken the strain off it? A little more investigation I would say, but nothing to be concerned with.
They were a little tight to remove, probably because they have a steel threaded mount that screws into an aluminium block. Sometimes I think two different metals can cause problems. My mechanic had the correct socket to remove them, which I imagine made all the difference.
Will post the part numbers on Noble Parts.
Will post the part numbers on Noble Parts.
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