Discussion
Looking at the product code, it is the non hydratrak replacement according to here.
http://www.thetvrshop.com/ProductsDetail.asp?PartNumber=TVR%20RQDH3M&ProductCategory=b
How straightforward the fitment is, I don't know (but I need a BTR casing myself for my rolling chassis as I have one of these units myself).
http://www.thetvrshop.com/ProductsDetail.asp?PartNumber=TVR%20RQDH3M&ProductCategory=b
How straightforward the fitment is, I don't know (but I need a BTR casing myself for my rolling chassis as I have one of these units myself).
Fitting isn't a problem if you can get it apart without breaking it!!!
The backlash adjusters (output bearing casings)are made of alloy and the casing is cast iron. You need to make a tool to fit into the adjusters to remove them (very fine thread) problem is they can corrode in there. You can't put heat on them as the alloy expands quicker than the iron. I've done it twice now, 2nd diff was much easier than the first.
Call Grantura Engineering, they got all the spares, bearings seals etc on the shelf, John Reid extremely helpful.
Richard, I've got a spare diff in bits, just needs crown wheel and pinion, how much do you want it?
Rich.
The backlash adjusters (output bearing casings)are made of alloy and the casing is cast iron. You need to make a tool to fit into the adjusters to remove them (very fine thread) problem is they can corrode in there. You can't put heat on them as the alloy expands quicker than the iron. I've done it twice now, 2nd diff was much easier than the first.
Call Grantura Engineering, they got all the spares, bearings seals etc on the shelf, John Reid extremely helpful.
Richard, I've got a spare diff in bits, just needs crown wheel and pinion, how much do you want it?
Rich.
Boosted Cerb said:
Fitting isn't a problem if you can get it apart without breaking it!!!
The backlash adjusters (output bearing casings)are made of alloy and the casing is cast iron. You need to make a tool to fit into the adjusters to remove them (very fine thread) problem is they can corrode in there. You can't put heat on them as the alloy expands quicker than the iron. I've done it twice now, 2nd diff was much easier than the first.
Call Grantura Engineering, they got all the spares, bearings seals etc on the shelf, John Reid extremely helpful.
Richard, I've got a spare diff in bits, just needs crown wheel and pinion, how much do you want it?
Rich.
Crown and pinion! As luck would have it such items happen to be lurking under my dining room table in a recent delivery from the land of Aus (next to the box marked "Quaife").The backlash adjusters (output bearing casings)are made of alloy and the casing is cast iron. You need to make a tool to fit into the adjusters to remove them (very fine thread) problem is they can corrode in there. You can't put heat on them as the alloy expands quicker than the iron. I've done it twice now, 2nd diff was much easier than the first.
Call Grantura Engineering, they got all the spares, bearings seals etc on the shelf, John Reid extremely helpful.
Richard, I've got a spare diff in bits, just needs crown wheel and pinion, how much do you want it?
Rich.
I'd be very grateful and would sent a extremely nice Christmas card. I'm very housetrained and can vacuum, cut the grass, dig weeds and find lost keys from gravel driveways too.
But I believe I have a bank account with "money" in it too
YHM.
Edited by RichardD on Thursday 10th September 13:25
Here's a few pics of what I've got, thought I'd post it here as then people can see whats inside their diffs.
An exploded pic
You can just see the fine adjuster threads on the alley output bearing carriers. By screwing one in and the other out you move the LSD unit and crown wheel side to side, this sets the backlash on the pinion gear. There is no thread locker used as there are two locking tabs to stop the adjusters moving, angled brackets in the pic. To be honest though, the adjusters are very tight to move.
Better view of the LSD unit minus the crown wheel of course.
Here is the pinion showing the crush washer. As you tighten the pinion nut you squeeze the two pinion bearings together and crush the washer, the washer assures you get the correct pre tension on the bearings. You measure the pre tension by using a torque wrench measuring how stiff it is to turn the pinion. inch/lbs wrench needed.
Pic below shows the mark on the pinions, this is a mark to show if a spacer is needed behind the main pinion bearing, most of the tine its a "0" like this one which means no spacer required.
An exploded pic
You can just see the fine adjuster threads on the alley output bearing carriers. By screwing one in and the other out you move the LSD unit and crown wheel side to side, this sets the backlash on the pinion gear. There is no thread locker used as there are two locking tabs to stop the adjusters moving, angled brackets in the pic. To be honest though, the adjusters are very tight to move.
Better view of the LSD unit minus the crown wheel of course.
Here is the pinion showing the crush washer. As you tighten the pinion nut you squeeze the two pinion bearings together and crush the washer, the washer assures you get the correct pre tension on the bearings. You measure the pre tension by using a torque wrench measuring how stiff it is to turn the pinion. inch/lbs wrench needed.
Pic below shows the mark on the pinions, this is a mark to show if a spacer is needed behind the main pinion bearing, most of the tine its a "0" like this one which means no spacer required.
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