Paint problem with the fairings on my bike
Discussion
The fairing i was painting i had just repaired a couple of parts of it,so basically the basecoat was going over primer and the original paint.The parts where the original paint was kept coming up in rough circular marks?I would rub it smooth,more basecoat and the same thing happened again!This was why i wanted to smooth the basecoat,then lacquer.
It sound like your problem lies in some type of contamination, are you using a panel wipe of some sort to clean the area before painting ?,
I dont really know what to suggest other than that, im not a fan of sanding and the clearcoating it never looks good IMO. idealy you dont want to touch teh base coat you want to go straight to CC over the top, but you need the base coat to be a good smooth finish.
Id try again, flat it back with some 1500 and re colour, try to get as good a gun finish as pos, then CC it. that would be the ideal way to get a good finish.
I dont really know what to suggest other than that, im not a fan of sanding and the clearcoating it never looks good IMO. idealy you dont want to touch teh base coat you want to go straight to CC over the top, but you need the base coat to be a good smooth finish.
Id try again, flat it back with some 1500 and re colour, try to get as good a gun finish as pos, then CC it. that would be the ideal way to get a good finish.
No, you absolutely cannot flat a metallic basecoat and then lacquer straight over it. The look of a metallic comes from even distribution of the flakes. If you start dragging abrasives through the spray lay-down, moving flakes about and tearing them out of the surface, the result will look absolutely awful in a final finish.
You *can* flat the basecoat, clean it off, apply more light coats of base over the top to recreate a good metallic laydown and then lacquer.
With low-build WB base though, if there are profile issues showing through (sounds like prep marks, as you say "rough" - contamination marks tend to be obvious as fisheyes or swirls from wax/grease left behind when degreasing, not rough, which tends to be from abrasive use), there may well be not enough build in the basecoat to flat out the problem.
Best option would be key up the existing finish, re-prime, flat back the primer (for most WB paints, 1500 grit ish) and then re-base.
Tol
You *can* flat the basecoat, clean it off, apply more light coats of base over the top to recreate a good metallic laydown and then lacquer.
With low-build WB base though, if there are profile issues showing through (sounds like prep marks, as you say "rough" - contamination marks tend to be obvious as fisheyes or swirls from wax/grease left behind when degreasing, not rough, which tends to be from abrasive use), there may well be not enough build in the basecoat to flat out the problem.
Best option would be key up the existing finish, re-prime, flat back the primer (for most WB paints, 1500 grit ish) and then re-base.
Tol
rumpelstiltskin said:
I mentioned it's a non-metallic paint.Its just a plain mid blue colour that needs a lacquer.I've smoothed one fairing off and i'll try and lacquer it and see how it looks.Failing that i'll just re-prime over it and paint it again.
Doh - I misread that as metallic...Is the base WB or solvent? To avoid scoring it with even 1500 grit it's best to use the wet and dry wet, but on WB basecoat this dissolves the paint again. If solvent, wet flatting and then clearcoating, provided you get the abrasive grit right, is no problem.
Tol
It's solvent paint.After rubbing the basecoat with 1000 grit i said to hell with it and clear coated it,it looks great lol!What is the recommendation for wet an dry to use in this instance,can i go finer,maybe 1200 on the basecoat?Someone warned me that using 1000 may show up scratches through the lacquer but it seems ok?
It'll all depend on the viscosity of the lacquer you use. A thin (or heavily reduced) lacquer can flow out and show up 1000 grit scratches. A gloopy one will fill them in and still show an untextured top surface.
If you put enough of a lacquer build down, on a flat colour, if your prep marks show through you can improve things almost completely by hand flatting and polishing up the lacquer surface (but you do need enough build to get away with this).
If it's worked ok with one side with 1000 grit, that's a pretty good indication that the lacquer will hide prep marks of that size
Tol
If you put enough of a lacquer build down, on a flat colour, if your prep marks show through you can improve things almost completely by hand flatting and polishing up the lacquer surface (but you do need enough build to get away with this).
If it's worked ok with one side with 1000 grit, that's a pretty good indication that the lacquer will hide prep marks of that size
Tol
Lacquers been lying drying for a couple of days now and when i was holding it my thumbprint was left in the sodding thing lol,been warm weather too!Anyway,anyone have any tips for the easiest way(ie not going as far as removing basecoat)of removing a lacquered over vinyl sticker.Can you just rub off the lacquer without going as far back as the basecoat?Then just re-lacquer again?
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