Replacing leads and coil pack 4.2 cerb
Discussion
I'm pretty sure I am suffering from HT leads breaking down, getting intermittent loss of power, rough running that suddenly clears itself.
I have looked at the TVR workshop manual, looks like all I need to do is remove air boxes to get access to leads where they meet the spark plugs, however to get access to the other ends of the leads where they plug onto, what are presumably the coil packs, is it necessary to remove the fuel rails?
Is it recommended to also replace the coil packs at the same time?
Thanks.
I have looked at the TVR workshop manual, looks like all I need to do is remove air boxes to get access to leads where they meet the spark plugs, however to get access to the other ends of the leads where they plug onto, what are presumably the coil packs, is it necessary to remove the fuel rails?
Is it recommended to also replace the coil packs at the same time?
Thanks.
Erich Stahler said:
I'm pretty sure I am suffering from HT leads breaking down, getting intermittent loss of power, rough running that suddenly clears itself.
I have looked at the TVR workshop manual, looks like all I need to do is remove air boxes to get access to leads where they meet the spark plugs, however to get access to the other ends of the leads where they plug onto, what are presumably the coil packs, is it necessary to remove the fuel rails?
Is it recommended to also replace the coil packs at the same time?
Thanks.
On a 4.2 you can reach the coil end of the leads without rmoving the fuel rail. I usualy take the plugs off the injectors to give a fraction more room. In fact you can relatively easily change the coils without emoving the rail as well. You just have to turn them to come up through the gap.I have looked at the TVR workshop manual, looks like all I need to do is remove air boxes to get access to leads where they meet the spark plugs, however to get access to the other ends of the leads where they plug onto, what are presumably the coil packs, is it necessary to remove the fuel rails?
Is it recommended to also replace the coil packs at the same time?
Thanks.
They're a pig - or some of them are - but you don't need to remove the fuel rails.
On a 4.5 with the original pipes, you'll need to remove the pipes, if you've got a 4.2 or Whirlwind-type pipes you can get to the coil packs - but you'll probably leave some skin behind unless you've got small hands.
The plug ends of the leads isn't too bad, as I recall the rear one on the driver's side is a pig.
Persevere and they'll just click into place in the end!
I had intermittent backfiring and rough running; Putting on a decent of high-performance leads transformed it.
G'luck!
A.
On a 4.5 with the original pipes, you'll need to remove the pipes, if you've got a 4.2 or Whirlwind-type pipes you can get to the coil packs - but you'll probably leave some skin behind unless you've got small hands.
The plug ends of the leads isn't too bad, as I recall the rear one on the driver's side is a pig.
Persevere and they'll just click into place in the end!
I had intermittent backfiring and rough running; Putting on a decent of high-performance leads transformed it.
G'luck!
A.
Thanks for the replies, so It looks like it should be doable without taking half the car apart yet again then, sounds like in this instance its a good job I have a 4.2 rather than the 4.5 inductions setup!
So are Magnacour leads the best or does anyone have any other recommendations? How about the coil packs themselves, I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones. I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
PlumAjp, dont think you need to remove the inlet manifolds themselves, from what others have said here, just the air boxes.
So are Magnacour leads the best or does anyone have any other recommendations? How about the coil packs themselves, I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones. I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
PlumAjp, dont think you need to remove the inlet manifolds themselves, from what others have said here, just the air boxes.
Erich Stahler said:
Thanks for the replies, so It looks like it should be doable without taking half the car apart yet again then, sounds like in this instance its a good job I have a 4.2 rather than the 4.5 inductions setup!
So are Magnacour leads the best or does anyone have any other recommendations? How about the coil packs themselves, I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones. I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
PlumAjp, dont think you need to remove the inlet manifolds themselves, from what others have said here, just the air boxes.
So are Magnacour leads the best or does anyone have any other recommendations? How about the coil packs themselves, I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones. I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
PlumAjp, dont think you need to remove the inlet manifolds themselves, from what others have said here, just the air boxes.
So are Magnacour leads the best or does anyone have any other recommendations?
How about the coil packs themselves? I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones.
I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
How about the coil packs themselves? I see on another thread Citroen/Peugeot ones from German Swedish and French have been tested and are just as good as the more expensive Bosch ones.
I think at the end of the day the biggest factor is under bonnet temperature, to be honest I'm amazed the ignition components last as long as they do, especially where the leads run along the sides of the block very close to the exhaust manifolds!
I put on top of the range Magnecors - they cost twice as much as standard leads.
They didn't make it run any better and they didn't last any longer. One of the plug boots disintegrated after a year. I have reverted to standard leads.
On the other hand - I put the generic coil packs on and they work perfectly. I don't know about longevity because they have only been on 18 months but so far I am well pleased with them.
They didn't make it run any better and they didn't last any longer. One of the plug boots disintegrated after a year. I have reverted to standard leads.
On the other hand - I put the generic coil packs on and they work perfectly. I don't know about longevity because they have only been on 18 months but so far I am well pleased with them.
Clever Trevor do their own version of "standard" HT leads. They look and feel chunkier than the ordinary Bougicord ones (maybe 8.5mm instead of 7.5mm), all for the same price.
They work, but I couldn't say how well they last.
Ian at Torque RVT once warned me off Magnicor, saying he'd had interference problems with them, but nobody else I've spoken to has backed that up, and Ian does occasionally have "funny" ideas abour some things;)
They work, but I couldn't say how well they last.
Ian at Torque RVT once warned me off Magnicor, saying he'd had interference problems with them, but nobody else I've spoken to has backed that up, and Ian does occasionally have "funny" ideas abour some things;)
All sorted now, got a pair of the dearer German coid packs from Clever Trevor and the standard Bougicord leads from Racing Green, the coil pack I removed were of the cheaper variety so hopefully they should see me good for a while, spotted the poor running problem straight away, the lead on the passenger side nearest the bulk head was starting to perish from the heat, I thing the exhaust manifold has a bend in that area that must be a tad closer than in other places, or maybe the battery prevents the heat from escaping in that corner more than in the other positions.
The car really does seem to pickup and rev a lot better now, quite a considerable difference, obviously was a problem for quite some time but never realised!
Definitely another diy job, allow 2-3 hours, only needed to remove air boxes, make sure you have a variety of different length allen keys and a few small lengths of tube to get the coil packs off and job done.
The car really does seem to pickup and rev a lot better now, quite a considerable difference, obviously was a problem for quite some time but never realised!
Definitely another diy job, allow 2-3 hours, only needed to remove air boxes, make sure you have a variety of different length allen keys and a few small lengths of tube to get the coil packs off and job done.
Edited by Erich Stahler on Saturday 26th September 19:22
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff