A few questions
Discussion
1. my handbrake button is stuck in. i have readed about this being quite common but not how to fix it. could someone point me in the correct direction please.
2. where is a good place to get some touch in paint from. I was thinking of going to brown brothers and getting some made up (i have the paint code)
3. 12k / 6k services. the car hasnt traveled much in the past few years and the last owner have just diy services the last log in the book was 39839in 2006 and it on 43000 now. i was quoted 550 by casle and £750 by leven for a 12k servies today. a company in ipswitch also quoted me "400/500" but i had the feeling that would soon go up LOL.
4. wilst on the phone to leven who seem like a very nice bunch we spoke about getting my stearing weel re-trimmed. They sujected a company D&C or somthing like that. That do this kind of work and are all X TVR staff. has anyone delt with them cost etc (iv managed to loose the piece of paper with there details)
5. replacing the wood dash bits for brush metal like the bits around the cd player. i understand leven do a carbon looking thing for £90 but cant find a pic. if there isnt a metal look one out there i could look into getting a batch made. but id have to do it as a group buy idear. and how diy are they to change as the clock one looks well in there
thanks matt
2. where is a good place to get some touch in paint from. I was thinking of going to brown brothers and getting some made up (i have the paint code)
3. 12k / 6k services. the car hasnt traveled much in the past few years and the last owner have just diy services the last log in the book was 39839in 2006 and it on 43000 now. i was quoted 550 by casle and £750 by leven for a 12k servies today. a company in ipswitch also quoted me "400/500" but i had the feeling that would soon go up LOL.
4. wilst on the phone to leven who seem like a very nice bunch we spoke about getting my stearing weel re-trimmed. They sujected a company D&C or somthing like that. That do this kind of work and are all X TVR staff. has anyone delt with them cost etc (iv managed to loose the piece of paper with there details)
5. replacing the wood dash bits for brush metal like the bits around the cd player. i understand leven do a carbon looking thing for £90 but cant find a pic. if there isnt a metal look one out there i could look into getting a batch made. but id have to do it as a group buy idear. and how diy are they to change as the clock one looks well in there
thanks matt
1. try to pull the handbrake foward and away from you (as if you are trying to select 1st gear with it) this will usally release it. had this on mine, so i pulled off the rubber handbrake cover unscrewed the little black button (careful as there is a large spring behind it), spray grease down hole, i also spread the metal part of the handle apart a little bit. when i put the little black button back on i found that screwing it in a little further helps. i have also just replaced the handbrake cover with a chrome one from a tuscan (ebay £15) the thicker grab on it seems to make it alot easier to pull.
2. paint is made by ICI who aren't about any more but my painter uses NEXA he gets it from a trade place in canterbury not quite sure where but i will talk to him soon so will let you know. he's painted quite a few TVR's for me (damn stone chips) an the colour match is perfect.
3. i do alot of my own work so not sure on servicing costs and not sure if you've got a sp6,4.2,4.5? but if i had to use someone i would stick with well established TVR independants, try Taylor TVR in maidstone kent (dan is a nice bloke and ex leven technician).
5. i company advertises a metal dash here on piston heads about £60, i have had 2 of them but both times the dash surround was brushed steel and the heater control was more of a polished steel so wasn't that happy with them. just carbon fibred mine using a sticky film and i must say it came out looking fantastic, i wouldn't normally use the stuff but the 2 pieces of dash are dead flat and as long as you take a bit of time its very easy to do.
be warned though as removing the dash requires you to remove the temp/oil gauge which 9 out 10 times will break (capillery tube at water pipe end) and is a little bit fiddelly, budget about £65 and 20 days for repair (speedy cables).
if you want to see the handbrake and dash, my car is up for sale http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1255605.htm
2. paint is made by ICI who aren't about any more but my painter uses NEXA he gets it from a trade place in canterbury not quite sure where but i will talk to him soon so will let you know. he's painted quite a few TVR's for me (damn stone chips) an the colour match is perfect.
3. i do alot of my own work so not sure on servicing costs and not sure if you've got a sp6,4.2,4.5? but if i had to use someone i would stick with well established TVR independants, try Taylor TVR in maidstone kent (dan is a nice bloke and ex leven technician).
5. i company advertises a metal dash here on piston heads about £60, i have had 2 of them but both times the dash surround was brushed steel and the heater control was more of a polished steel so wasn't that happy with them. just carbon fibred mine using a sticky film and i must say it came out looking fantastic, i wouldn't normally use the stuff but the 2 pieces of dash are dead flat and as long as you take a bit of time its very easy to do.
be warned though as removing the dash requires you to remove the temp/oil gauge which 9 out 10 times will break (capillery tube at water pipe end) and is a little bit fiddelly, budget about £65 and 20 days for repair (speedy cables).
if you want to see the handbrake and dash, my car is up for sale http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1255605.htm
well iv tride moving the handbrake every witch way and just letting it drop down and the button is still stuck in. I even tride some grips to tease it out but no luck. there is a bit of silver metal that work at the rachet lock that isnt coming down. will buy some wd40 in the morning and apply.
Handbrake Button - Also just try gripping it and unscrewing it just a touch.
Allen Headed Countersunk Screws - Screwfix
Stainless Steel Dash - You don't have to remove the Water guage and capillary tube. Just use a very fine hacksaw and cut a slot at the top of the steel plate to meet the round guage housing, and feed the tube through it, you can fit the new dash in an hour DIY.
Servicing - I've used Leven and they are very good - budget about a Grand for a good 12k service though (not just Leven, anywhere)
Allen Headed Countersunk Screws - Screwfix
Stainless Steel Dash - You don't have to remove the Water guage and capillary tube. Just use a very fine hacksaw and cut a slot at the top of the steel plate to meet the round guage housing, and feed the tube through it, you can fit the new dash in an hour DIY.
Servicing - I've used Leven and they are very good - budget about a Grand for a good 12k service though (not just Leven, anywhere)
Edited by JensenA on Tuesday 22 September 09:00
Stainless Steel Dash - You don't have to remove the Water guage and capillary tube. Just use a very fine hacksaw and cut a slot at the top of the steel plate to meet the round guage housing, and feed the tube through it, you can fit the new dash in an hour DIY.
tried this and ended up with always looking at the horrible slit in the dash which is also alot tougher than you think cutting the slit took about an hour due to poor access
be brave and take the gauge out
chances are your gauge reads about 15+ degress to what the actual temp is, so a refurb is the order of the day anyway.
try removing the handbrake switch, it could be pinching the metal together, you might have to pry the handbrake apart slightly then give it a good whack down
tried this and ended up with always looking at the horrible slit in the dash which is also alot tougher than you think cutting the slit took about an hour due to poor access
be brave and take the gauge out
chances are your gauge reads about 15+ degress to what the actual temp is, so a refurb is the order of the day anyway.try removing the handbrake switch, it could be pinching the metal together, you might have to pry the handbrake apart slightly then give it a good whack down
Edited by al 350i on Monday 21st September 23:42
UPDATE
RE handbrake - well after adding some WD40, loosing the switch thing and a bit of work with a flat head to pull the 2 plates apart all is well and working very smoothly. I also ajusted the switch as it wasnt making very good contact.
RE Alloy Countersunk Washer and Bolts - well i found a company "pro-bolt" that will make then in titanium in diffrent colours and demon tween sell just the bolts in diffrent colour. but then i started thinking of my past and recalled my go karts used the same style to hold the seats and so on and hear you go http://www.spellfame.co.uk/acatalog/Floor_Tray_Fix... You will have to go down the list a bit but cost me £11 for 12 bolts and 8 of the washers. got a few extra bolt as i think the doors take them and so on. so im shore ill find somewhere to put them.
RE handbrake - well after adding some WD40, loosing the switch thing and a bit of work with a flat head to pull the 2 plates apart all is well and working very smoothly. I also ajusted the switch as it wasnt making very good contact.
RE Alloy Countersunk Washer and Bolts - well i found a company "pro-bolt" that will make then in titanium in diffrent colours and demon tween sell just the bolts in diffrent colour. but then i started thinking of my past and recalled my go karts used the same style to hold the seats and so on and hear you go http://www.spellfame.co.uk/acatalog/Floor_Tray_Fix... You will have to go down the list a bit but cost me £11 for 12 bolts and 8 of the washers. got a few extra bolt as i think the doors take them and so on. so im shore ill find somewhere to put them.
madmatt1985 said:
4. wilst on the phone to leven who seem like a very nice bunch we spoke about getting my stearing weel re-trimmed. They sujected a company D&C or somthing like that. That do this kind of work and are all X TVR staff. has anyone delt with them cost etc (iv managed to loose the piece of paper with there details)
From hereDave 07772 856695
Chris 07738 130236
madmatt1985 said:
6. Where can i get the socket head taperd bolt with the washer to match. that hold the bits of fiber glass on under the bonnet
i bought these for my tray and battery cover, they're plastic so don't scratch the paintwork as much.http://bit.ly/5Qa9aU which along with other bolts I'm slowly replacing all for stainless steel ones
http://pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&f...
that and finding where the water is coming in from, near-on almost had the dam screen out!
I'm also curious about the dash removal with the oil pressure/water temp gauge in situ... anyone have photos or a drawing to describe this, attempting to pull out the capillary tube.. no thanks.
Deano
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