How do you change the oil on an Elise S1
Discussion
(even if it did you won't notice 5bhp!).Unless you have an oil cooler fitted then in an Elise you are far more likely to have the oil running very hot (especially on track) than a family runaround. Fully synths are slower to break down than mineral oils so will provide better protection.
Your car, your engine so up to you what you put in it. To my mind the difference in price between decent and cheap oil is so small (in the context of the running costs of the car) as to be irrelevant.
Your car, your engine so up to you what you put in it. To my mind the difference in price between decent and cheap oil is so small (in the context of the running costs of the car) as to be irrelevant.
Loads of tests have been done on rolling roads with many different cars and they all say the same, the oil has an effect on BHP.
There is a balance to be had between protection,pressure and film strength under load for example track use.
Mobil having one of the best fully synthetics available off the shelf at a reasonable price is the choice for me.
A 0w will give me good start up protection circulating the engine quickly without putting extra strain on the battery or starter.
The /40 is the recommended grade giving good protection when hot, this will give less resistance compared to a /50 or /60 grade oil which will require more effort to push around the engine, the /40 will also be more fuel efficient.
If I were to take my car to the track I would be running a different oil and changing it after the event.
I am happy with my metro engined, ford ball jointed, mini door handled plastic car thanks, it is a LOTUS
There is a balance to be had between protection,pressure and film strength under load for example track use.
Mobil having one of the best fully synthetics available off the shelf at a reasonable price is the choice for me.
A 0w will give me good start up protection circulating the engine quickly without putting extra strain on the battery or starter.
The /40 is the recommended grade giving good protection when hot, this will give less resistance compared to a /50 or /60 grade oil which will require more effort to push around the engine, the /40 will also be more fuel efficient.
If I were to take my car to the track I would be running a different oil and changing it after the event.
I am happy with my metro engined, ford ball jointed, mini door handled plastic car thanks, it is a LOTUS
thought that might stir it up a bit.I have a 1999 Lotus Elise S1 with a 1.8 k series, which is currently being replaced with a 2.0 litre Duratec.
I use Halfords oil in my car, I use it on track and the road and it has done 90k miles without missing a beat. She runs at a nice temperature and doesn't show any signs of lacking power and certainly doesn't smoke, so i would assume wear is at a minimum.
Ultimately, you put in what you want, but spending 2 or 3 times more on oil for what is ultimately a mass produced engine seems a little over kill.
If you have some highly tuned VHPD then go for it, but then I would like to think you wouldn't need to ask how to change the oil on an internet forum
5hp, as previously said that is just laughable... Was that on a cold day or a warm day?
Edited by Mark B on Thursday 1st October 17:24
Hi Mark
There are gains to be had with different oils, fact but not the reason for change.
Good luck with the Duratec conversion, sounds great.
I have just bought the car and I am very pleased with it and do not wish to do any damage jacking it up, hence the questions, every one just kindly points me to SELOC, so I have been there checking it out, thank you.
There are gains to be had with different oils, fact but not the reason for change.
Good luck with the Duratec conversion, sounds great.
I have just bought the car and I am very pleased with it and do not wish to do any damage jacking it up, hence the questions, every one just kindly points me to SELOC, so I have been there checking it out, thank you.
Tipper, I would change the oil after a track day, not before and up to three track days is acceptable, the reason being as you may know, high reves means more combustion bi products make it past the rings into the oil shortening its life.
The better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
The better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
freerange7 said:
Tipper, I would change the oil after a track day, not before and up to three track days is acceptable, the reason being as you may know, high reves means more combustion bi products make it past the rings into the oil shortening its life.
The better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
That told meThe better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
Your comments re the extra 5bhp had me thinking you were one of these max-power types who think a bit of oil, some gloop from the motor factors and a cheap electric fan in your induction system will give you 200bhp! My apologies.
freerange7 said:
Tipper, I would change the oil after a track day, not before and up to three track days is acceptable, the reason being as you may know, high reves means more combustion bi products make it past the rings into the oil shortening its life.
The better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
All sounds very good, but I would be wary of a lot of the things you are asking, you mention a lot of the so called 'issues' with the k series but you didn't even realise if it had a foamed sump...The better the oil, ie a fully synthetic the less aditives are required to hold it together so ther is less to brake down, the oil will perform better for longer within the recomended drain period.
A common problem with the "K" series engine is tappet noise, this can be caused by over presurising the system with the wrong oil, oil being burnt leaving a varnish on metal parts. These can be avoided with a decent oil, regular service intervals and leaving your engine running after a Blat to let the oil cool the engine down.
I wouldn't be leaving my car running whilst not moving at the end of a blt, the water has to travel a long way to the radiator and the low tick over won't circulate the water sufficiently. Cool it down properly!
Good luck with the new toy, but take a chill pill wit all the worries over it being very delicate,it's not - go out and drive it
As I say, mines did 90k miles, was driven hard all the time on track and as an everyday car and still had all the power, no smoke, etc etc..
Thanks
I will be driving it hard, just wanted to be prepared for it, a lot of people say bad things about the engine but it is only from people who do not pay them any respect in the first place or a reputation gained down the pub.
As the car is new to me I want to service it to make sure it has the correct oil, not knowing what it has been topped up with, correct antifreeze concentration etc.
I went for this model as it seems to be the best to go for for my requirements with very good power to weight while being economical and it is an S1.
As the Caterham boys have a foam baffle in the sump I wanted to know if it was a Caterham thing or did Lotus do the same. My 7 runs a 2.0 Zetec installed by myself and it does not have this fitted.
I like to prepare before doing things and thanks to all your help I do not have to take the sump off and I have learnt about turning the engine over with the fuse out to stop it firing up while the oil circulates. COOL
What difference will sitting with the engine ticking over after a run to cool down be from sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes?
I will be driving it hard, just wanted to be prepared for it, a lot of people say bad things about the engine but it is only from people who do not pay them any respect in the first place or a reputation gained down the pub.
As the car is new to me I want to service it to make sure it has the correct oil, not knowing what it has been topped up with, correct antifreeze concentration etc.
I went for this model as it seems to be the best to go for for my requirements with very good power to weight while being economical and it is an S1.
As the Caterham boys have a foam baffle in the sump I wanted to know if it was a Caterham thing or did Lotus do the same. My 7 runs a 2.0 Zetec installed by myself and it does not have this fitted.
I like to prepare before doing things and thanks to all your help I do not have to take the sump off and I have learnt about turning the engine over with the fuse out to stop it firing up while the oil circulates. COOL
What difference will sitting with the engine ticking over after a run to cool down be from sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes?
My tip for that extra 5BHP would be to have a good crap before getting in the car,that way you're getting a better power to weight ratio,lol.
On a serious note get you're self aquainted with the info on Seloc,it all good stuff.I did my first oil change on my S2 this year and it was easy.The BIG tip is take you're time,don't rush,and more importantly have fun,don't worry too much.
On a serious note get you're self aquainted with the info on Seloc,it all good stuff.I did my first oil change on my S2 this year and it was easy.The BIG tip is take you're time,don't rush,and more importantly have fun,don't worry too much.
Edited by MadProf on Friday 2nd October 21:39
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