How do you clay a car??
Discussion
BlueSmoke said:
Cheers guys. I thought as much. Gonna be costly, as I don't have a jet wash or a hose so I'll be having to take it to the car wash, do all this, go to the car wash again, then polish!
If you are keen on detailing, avoid car washes at all cost!!! They scratch your paint as the brushes tend to be rough.Can you not just use two watering cans? Fill them both up, walk to the car and use those to rinse?
FreeLitres said:
BlueSmoke said:
Cheers guys. I thought as much. Gonna be costly, as I don't have a jet wash or a hose so I'll be having to take it to the car wash, do all this, go to the car wash again, then polish!
If you are keen on detailing, avoid car washes at all cost!!! They scratch your paint as the brushes tend to be rough.Can you not just use two watering cans? Fill them both up, walk to the car and use those to rinse?
I hate using a bucket and sponge usually because it's hard to get it looking right IMO.
1.Wash car and dry.
2.Remove heavy tar deposit's with tar remover.
3.Get a clay kit [clay bar, microfibre towel, lubricant]
4.Get some warm water and put clay in for a bit, kneed it into a flat surface of relatively even thickness.
5.Spray some lube on the car (taking it one panel at a time, splitting the bigger panels into two) move the bar back and forth over the body whilst maintaining to lube (too much being better than too little), let it work under it's own weight, don't apply pressure. When the surface is smooth for the clay to run over it then it is done. Remember to fold it over to a new surface every now and again.
6.Wash again, dry.
7.Polish
8.Seal
9.Wax.
2.Remove heavy tar deposit's with tar remover.
3.Get a clay kit [clay bar, microfibre towel, lubricant]
4.Get some warm water and put clay in for a bit, kneed it into a flat surface of relatively even thickness.
5.Spray some lube on the car (taking it one panel at a time, splitting the bigger panels into two) move the bar back and forth over the body whilst maintaining to lube (too much being better than too little), let it work under it's own weight, don't apply pressure. When the surface is smooth for the clay to run over it then it is done. Remember to fold it over to a new surface every now and again.
6.Wash again, dry.
7.Polish
8.Seal
9.Wax.
Edited by VinnyTheGolfMan on Wednesday 30th September 19:47
Have a look on here plenty of friendly advice available http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php
Have a search on youtube for films showing how to clay and how much lube to use. It's dead easy and makes such a difference, run your fingers over a clayed panel and then a non clayed one and you will feel the difference.
Makes the polishing and waxing stages so much easier as the product doesnt catch on small imperfections.
Makes the polishing and waxing stages so much easier as the product doesnt catch on small imperfections.
Would suggest using Optimum No Rinse shampoo if you don't have a hose. You still wash with a bucket(s) & mitt but don't need to rinse the car off afterwards.
Take a look at the Environmental Detailing section of the Detailing World forum for more into on using ONR. Never used it myself but from what I've read it seems to be fairly ideal for people who don't have access to a hose/ live in flats etc.
Take a look at the Environmental Detailing section of the Detailing World forum for more into on using ONR. Never used it myself but from what I've read it seems to be fairly ideal for people who don't have access to a hose/ live in flats etc.
VinnyTheGolfMan said:
1.Wash car and dry.
2.Remove heavy tar deposit's with tar remover.
3.Get a clay kit [clay bar, microfibre towel, lubricant]
4.Get some warm water and put clay in for a bit, kneed it into a flat surface of relatively even thickness.
5.Spray some lube on the car (taking it one panel at a time, splitting the bigger panels into two) move the bar back and forth over the body whilst maintaining to lube (too much being better than too little), let it work under it's own weight, don't apply pressure. When the surface is smooth for the clay to run over it then it is done. Remember to fold it over to a new surface every now and again.
6.Wash again, dry.
7.Polish
8.Seal
9.Wax.
All this, or go to the pub? 2.Remove heavy tar deposit's with tar remover.
3.Get a clay kit [clay bar, microfibre towel, lubricant]
4.Get some warm water and put clay in for a bit, kneed it into a flat surface of relatively even thickness.
5.Spray some lube on the car (taking it one panel at a time, splitting the bigger panels into two) move the bar back and forth over the body whilst maintaining to lube (too much being better than too little), let it work under it's own weight, don't apply pressure. When the surface is smooth for the clay to run over it then it is done. Remember to fold it over to a new surface every now and again.
6.Wash again, dry.
7.Polish
8.Seal
9.Wax.
klimakool said:
my valeter always says to me to use the clay bar in circles as you do with t cut for best results. maguires clay bar has done my van and 4 cars, all very old, and still has plenty life
Personally I would ignore your valeter - work in straight lines as you "should" do when washing!The theory being that if you do trap something sharp beneth your mitt or the clay if you do scrape it against the paintwork the mark will be in a straight line and won't be as evident as a circular swirl - IIRC.
eldar said:
Cheap blu-tac you can buy in bulk from stationers works just as well as the 'proper' clay, and costs about 1/10....
Is there any truth in this? I have the Macquiars (sp?) clay bar and was very chuffed with the results on my 911 - but it was a lot of work - wash, dry, wax, wash, dry, wax. If youve got a Sunday with nothing better to do the end result is very satisfying.
PS - Should claying the car make it a much easier wash/wax from then on?
all this talk of sponges and (/Shudder) car'washes' (/Shudder) makes me cringe.
go to detailing world and use the search function.
don't use blu tack, buy a clay bar - even do them in Halfords.
Do not use a sponge - buy a sheep skin wash mitt.
Do research and find out what the 'Two bucket method' is and stick to it.
and relax
go to detailing world and use the search function.
don't use blu tack, buy a clay bar - even do them in Halfords.
Do not use a sponge - buy a sheep skin wash mitt.
Do research and find out what the 'Two bucket method' is and stick to it.
and relax
A911DOM said:
eldar said:
Cheap blu-tac you can buy in bulk from stationers works just as well as the 'proper' clay, and costs about 1/10....
Is there any truth in this? I have the Macquiars (sp?) clay bar and was very chuffed with the results on my 911 - but it was a lot of work - wash, dry, wax, wash, dry, wax. If youve got a Sunday with nothing better to do the end result is very satisfying.
PS - Should claying the car make it a much easier wash/wax from then on?
My way is;
Prewash with a Traffic Film Remover, I spray this on with a superspray (£10), this is kind of like a foam lance but much worse. This stage losens most dirt.
Rinse with a open hose, sheeting water off the car.
Dry with microfiber cloth.
Clay (only twice a year)
Wash with car shampoo, using the two bucket method and a mit.
Dry
Polish, reomve polish and buff (again maybe twice a year).
Wax (just got some dodo juice!), remove wax and buff (once a month).
Prewash with a Traffic Film Remover, I spray this on with a superspray (£10), this is kind of like a foam lance but much worse. This stage losens most dirt.
Rinse with a open hose, sheeting water off the car.
Dry with microfiber cloth.
Clay (only twice a year)
Wash with car shampoo, using the two bucket method and a mit.
Dry
Polish, reomve polish and buff (again maybe twice a year).
Wax (just got some dodo juice!), remove wax and buff (once a month).
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