check list for rust treatment

[Steve H]

Hi all, since getting the thumbs up from my garage that the underneath is in good condition I am now intending to keep it this way by getting as much done over the next 6/8 weekends as possible. I
have done as much research as I can on here and this weekend the fun starts.

I do not have a garage and so all work will be done on the drive I am afraid but I am no stranger to the cold.

My shopping list is:

Large tarpauling (to put on the drive, under the car)
4 Axle stands, trolley jack and a creeper
Goggles/mask
pleanty of wire brushes, scrapers, sandpaper etc
White spirit and rags
Drill (for wire brush attachments)

After all of the old stuff has been removed, I will start on the treatment and this is where my inexperience shows

Rust proofing, Hammerite or POR51 (red of course)
Waxoyl

I hope that I have covered everything and appreciate that I am doing this with the body on but I will be slow and methodical and as detailed as I can.

One question, Should I derust the whole car and then start on treatment? I ask because the car will be sitting on the drive (undriven) for the whole period and there could be a 4/6 week gap between starting and finishing)

Any contributions/help/advice is GREATLY appreciated

Steve

[merky300]

I found the best method of removing rust and flakey powder coat was twisted knot wire brushes in a small angle grinder, you can get them flat or cupped. The flat ones worked best and can get into the corners. The normal straight wire brushes for drills arn't really strong enough for the powder coat.

Tony

[phillpot]

Have a look on "Screw-fix" at item 31736-27, they are bit like a very coarse/hard scouring pad. Used some recently at work, removed rust and paint easily without damaging metal. If you don't have an angle grinder ( I would get one) they do similar things to fit in a drill chuck.

Regards painting, would try and get some primer/red oxide or whatever you're using onto whatever you've got prepared each day. It ain't gonna go rusty overnight but this will break up the monotony and see some progress. I had a go at front end of my chassis back in the Spring, its surprising just how many tubes and brackets there are in an S chassis !

HTH and good luck

Mike

[Steve H]

Thanks for the replies fellas, by red oxide do you mean the POR or Hammerite?

Any opinions on what to use?
Cheers

[spludge]

I used nitromors to strip the flaking powder coat. Be careful with that stuff though, you don't want to get it on your skin. I removed most of the rust with 60 grit sandpaper by hand, it leaves nicely abraded finish which helps the paint stick. The rest I did with course emery and a mini-grinder for the hard to reach places. Not a fan of wire brushes, I always seem to end up with polished rust!

Last time I looked you could only get POR15 in black, silver or clear so if you want a red chassis you'll need to overcoat with something else. I used the silver for mine and am pleased with the results so far but I did take a lot of care with the prep. Not a fan of Hammerite either.

Whichever rust prevention/paint system you choose, take the time to search out the application notes from the manufacturer and follow them. The instructions on the can don't really tell the whole story.

I'd do it in stages, no point in doing all the prep and then leaving it for a month to go rusty again.

K

[Steve H]

Thanks, you are all a great help to a novice like me.

Sorry, but a few more questions:

Do I have to remove all of the powdercoat or just the flaky, bubbly bits?

I assume this is correct and I am not missing anything here,

1) prep
2) POR
3) Waxoyl

have I missed something out, do I have to treat the metal before the POR????????

I think I will do an outrigger at a time and then move on to the chassis if the weather holds!!

Thanks, and sorry for being a pain in the *"!% with all of the questions

Edited by Steve H on Friday 2nd October 08:04

[ketvrin]

OK - as you say you are a novice and are working outside on the drive you need to be aware that most of the products you will be using assume application is done in a dry environment at ambient temperatures (range will be stated somewhere on the container) if the weather is very cold or damp then you would be advised to not do any work in those conditions.

if you get the metalwork clean and bare, you will need to coat it with your first layer (rust preventer) as soon as possible - usually within 2.1/2 hours assuming dry atmosphere. Even primed, you will need to get the next coat on as soon as possible - use a heater/blower to speed the drying/hardening where possible. If any of the base coats get wet you will need to inspect it very closely after drying to ensure that there are no "bubbles" of rust appearing.

Generally speaking, if you look at your work and are thinking "I wonder if that bit is OK" then it is not and you had better do it again until you have no doubts - as its a big job to revisit small areas later...

You would be well advised to do small areas at a time and not leave it until you are happy that you have done as much as possible before moving to the next area, or packing in for the day - ignore the missus telling you that your tea is on the table and going cold... finish the job then go to the chippy

Good luck and take a look at the many photos of restorations and refurbs available in the useful links wiki above for inspiration and guidance.

K

[GreenV8S]

You know it's going to be an unpleasant job, and take a long time. Rest assured that it will be even more unpleasant than you think, and take even longer.

Good luck!

[Steve H]

Damm it, didnt take the temperature/dampness into account. may leave it until spring, car wont be used much till then and will be under cover.

May concentrate on cosmetics beacuase it does need a new roof!

The list grows longer and longer!!!!!

[Wiz]

GreenV8S said:

You know it's going to be an unpleasant job, and take a long time. Rest assured that it will be even more unpleasant than you think, and take even longer.

Good luck!

Second that, but it is worth it in the long run.
Spent most of last winter shuffling round under the car, getting a bad back/neck and bumping my head once or twice.
A fan heater and a radio are a great help. Also a box of disposable gloves.
It needs to be indoors for most finishing stuff to work.

Had a quick look the other day and everything seems good. Inspection and a bit of touching up and another go round with the dynax spray.
Sorted for another year.

[jensa]

i did all chassie this summer it took 250 hours. a lot of work, but the result was great. all chassie red and nice. I used hammarite, 3 layers, and berfore that removing all paint and using a rust preventer kemical. I dont have any waxoil, i what to se the chassie and its condition.