Strange lacquer problem....
Discussion
Just painted the fairings of my RGV.I had painted one half with basecoat and lacquer,this had been hardening for at least 8 days plus 8 hours in baking hot sun,then another 3 days in my shed.I masked off this painted half and painted the other half of the fairing the second colour.After i had done this i took off the newspaper i had used to mask off the half i painted first and the ink plus parts of the paper were engrained in the lacquer??I was a little miffed to say the least.How in the hell can this lacquer,which had hardened for nigh on two weeks,and had been subject to being smoothed and polished still be soft enough to be engrained by anything touching it?
Most people don't appreciate paint takes up to 6 months to fully cure, even after being baked (low temp though - 20 something degrees) - so I'd imagine that's the reason, if not solvent leeching the ink from the paper as it lands on it.
Drop of fine polish, with a soft pad, and you'll be grand.
Drop of fine polish, with a soft pad, and you'll be grand.
This has really knocked my confidence a bit for doing the rest of the bike.I can't get my head around the fact that a panel i have been rubbing at for hours fine sanding,then t-cutting,then polishing to a mirror finish can 'then' be affected by a piece of paper just lying against it??Not looking forward to doing the tank now,to think that my knees will be going against it while riding is making me think now,how many weeks do i have to leave it before it's usuable,i've no way of knowing?Surely paint shops can't make a customer wait weeks on end before they can use painted parts?
No, but the parts are baed for a number of hours at 20 odd degrees, which cures the paint about 80-90% - the rest comes from the offgassing process that still continues for a while longer.
This is why you don't, or aren't supposed to, seal/wax the paint for at least 30 days after repair, preferably 60 - with one manufacturer saying no silicone on the paint for 120 days!
So your leathers shouldn't really be a problem, but you may want to (if you can) use a heater in the garage to raise the temperature, to speed up the curing process.
The type of clearcoat chosen too will also dictate the time needed to cure, as some can be very quick, and others much longer.
This is why you don't, or aren't supposed to, seal/wax the paint for at least 30 days after repair, preferably 60 - with one manufacturer saying no silicone on the paint for 120 days!
So your leathers shouldn't really be a problem, but you may want to (if you can) use a heater in the garage to raise the temperature, to speed up the curing process.
The type of clearcoat chosen too will also dictate the time needed to cure, as some can be very quick, and others much longer.
If you're masking and spraying over (fairly) fresh paint, always use at least 3 layers of paper, especially if you're using newspaper! Make sure you unmask it as soon as the new paint has flashed off- you dont want masking left on fresh paint for any longer than absolutely neccessary.
The tape wasn't contacting the fresh paint at all,i had the tape going along the division where a white stripe goes between the two colours i had painted.It was just the paper lying against the paint that sunk into the lacquer.I've got another problem now with the tank!!I never usually have all these problems painting but it all seems to be happening at once!
Im painting the bottom half of the tank with a blue basecoat and there a reaction happening at both side of the tank at the same places on both sides??It's not even where the tank pads were on it so it can't be any left over glue residue or anything.The top half of the tank is fine.It looks like the paint is just shrinking,shrivelling up and not adhereing to the surface?You can see the white primer through the cracks.I've had this problem and i usually just let it dry and flash off,flatten it and do it again but it's not having it this time?Three times i've tried now and it's done it,anyone recommend a good sealer/barrier paint i can spray over whatever original paint/primer underneath that might be causing the reaction?It's just two smallish parts at the front of the tank it's happening,i'll post a pic later.Thanks!
Im painting the bottom half of the tank with a blue basecoat and there a reaction happening at both side of the tank at the same places on both sides??It's not even where the tank pads were on it so it can't be any left over glue residue or anything.The top half of the tank is fine.It looks like the paint is just shrinking,shrivelling up and not adhereing to the surface?You can see the white primer through the cracks.I've had this problem and i usually just let it dry and flash off,flatten it and do it again but it's not having it this time?Three times i've tried now and it's done it,anyone recommend a good sealer/barrier paint i can spray over whatever original paint/primer underneath that might be causing the reaction?It's just two smallish parts at the front of the tank it's happening,i'll post a pic later.Thanks!
Whenever I paint a motorcycle petrol tank that looks like its been painted before, I always strip it back to bare metal and start from a fresh surface. They are such (reletively) small objects but are the main focal point of any paintjob that its just not worth the risk of poor previous paint affecting the new job.
You can try "Barcoat", a Upol product if my memory is correct, but TBH, with the amount of paint you've got on there it sounds like you'll always have trouble. Paint stripper it and start afresh is my advice.
You can try "Barcoat", a Upol product if my memory is correct, but TBH, with the amount of paint you've got on there it sounds like you'll always have trouble. Paint stripper it and start afresh is my advice.
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