what's the best/easiest way to get the gearbox out?
Discussion
d lot out.You have to get the engine forward, maybe 9 inches, and it has to be hoisted up a bit. If you don't remove the engine completely you only have to undo and replace about half the 'connections' i.e. water pipes, electrical stuff etc.
If you're just doing the clutch, though, it doesn't need to come out.
If you're just doing the clutch, though, it doesn't need to come out.
We dropped my gearbox out about 2003/4 and moved the engine forward and up as far as it would go without disconnecting fuel hose,dont go cutting chassis cos you'll weaken it. Obviously we had to disconnect exhaust manifolds and exhaust including centre box 
and water hoses but engine stayed suspended on hoist until it went back together,and whilst you are underneath you'll find lots of other little things to fix,paint and replace 
and water hoses but engine stayed suspended on hoist until it went back together,and whilst you are underneath you'll find lots of other little things to fix,paint and replace You'd struggle to get the spigot bearing out with the engine just slid forward in the bay. The standard method (for those who don't know) is to pack the bearing with lots of grease then drive a shaft of the same diameter as the gearbox input shaft, through the bearing. As the grease can't get back past the shaft it pushes the bearing out instead. So you'd need room to swing a hammer, doubt you'd have that much space.
Squealing on clutch depression is more usually to be blamed on the release bearing, which you could change once the engine was slid forward.
I'm of the school of thought that the engine should come out, allowing you to do all those jobs you can't normally see that need doing
Last time I had my 'box out I replaced all the mounting rubbers and the output flange seal. In hindsight I'd have changed the bushes that mount the gearshift extension as well, since when they had to be done a year or so later it was a pain in the parts.
Squealing on clutch depression is more usually to be blamed on the release bearing, which you could change once the engine was slid forward.
I'm of the school of thought that the engine should come out, allowing you to do all those jobs you can't normally see that need doing
Last time I had my 'box out I replaced all the mounting rubbers and the output flange seal. In hindsight I'd have changed the bushes that mount the gearshift extension as well, since when they had to be done a year or so later it was a pain in the parts.
adam quantrill said:
By spigot bearing do you mean clutch release bearing - or something else?
Well he said 'spigot bearing in the flywheel' so I assume he means the spigot bearing rather than the release bearing. Strictly speaking, the spigot bearing is fitted in the large boss at the end of the crankshaft, not into the flywheel (which is bolted to the same boss). On the RV8 the bearing is a big chunk of bronze; on some engines it's a needle roller bearing.Incidentally the bronze version comes in different sizes, so if you swap an automatic car's engine into a manual (and vice versa) you'll need to change it... from memory the auto's bush has the larger bore.
Gotcha - yes it would be best to extract the engine to get at that, by the sounds of it.
However, first you might want to diagnose it in a bit more detail, for it might be something else that's making the noise.
Steve - when do you get the noise?
a) engine running, box in neutral, clutch engaged?
b) engine running, box in neutral, foot on clutch lightly?
c) engine running, box in neutral, clutch fully disengaged?
d) engine running, box in gear, clutch engaged?
e) engine running, box in gear, foot on clutch lightly?
f) engine running, box in gear, clutch fully disengaged?
is the noise more of a screeching, or a grinding?
It might turn out to be the clutch release bearing, and you don't need the engine out for that.
However, first you might want to diagnose it in a bit more detail, for it might be something else that's making the noise.
Steve - when do you get the noise?
a) engine running, box in neutral, clutch engaged?
b) engine running, box in neutral, foot on clutch lightly?
c) engine running, box in neutral, clutch fully disengaged?
d) engine running, box in gear, clutch engaged?
e) engine running, box in gear, foot on clutch lightly?
f) engine running, box in gear, clutch fully disengaged?
is the noise more of a screeching, or a grinding?
It might turn out to be the clutch release bearing, and you don't need the engine out for that.
adam quantrill said:
a) engine running, box in neutral, clutch engaged?
b) engine running, box in neutral, foot on clutch lightly?
c) engine running, box in neutral, clutch fully disengaged?
d) engine running, box in gear, clutch engaged?
e) engine running, box in gear, foot on clutch lightly?
f) engine running, box in gear, clutch fully disengaged?
is the noise more of a screeching, or a grinding?
g) engine off, coasting downhill, feet on dashboard, noise is more of a whirringb) engine running, box in neutral, foot on clutch lightly?
c) engine running, box in neutral, clutch fully disengaged?
d) engine running, box in gear, clutch engaged?
e) engine running, box in gear, foot on clutch lightly?
f) engine running, box in gear, clutch fully disengaged?
is the noise more of a screeching, or a grinding?
h) engine on Ebay, car pushed into flooded quarry, sound of running feet
noise is a screech or squeal rather than a grind and it does not happen when clutch is disengaged at all (eg at idle in neutral there is no noise which is when you get the most noise from a tired release bearing yes?).
it happens when you depress the clutch and keeps on a screeching and a wailing until the clutch is fully released. it happens in all gears I think but is most noticeable when you move off of course.
a friend has an e-type which had similar problem and it was the spigot bearing which had dried out from lack of use (and it was the wrong sort of bearing too) and was binding to the drive shaft - the squealing being from the bearing spinning in the flywheel....nasty
thanks for all comments/ideas chaps - i know i should prob get the engine out but was trying to avoid....
it happens when you depress the clutch and keeps on a screeching and a wailing until the clutch is fully released. it happens in all gears I think but is most noticeable when you move off of course.
a friend has an e-type which had similar problem and it was the spigot bearing which had dried out from lack of use (and it was the wrong sort of bearing too) and was binding to the drive shaft - the squealing being from the bearing spinning in the flywheel....nasty
thanks for all comments/ideas chaps - i know i should prob get the engine out but was trying to avoid....
Not too hard, you need a crane with a full 500kg lift (I think) at full extension, with a 2m arm (1.8 might be just about enough) to clear the nosecone.
It comes out (and goes back in) at quite an angle, about 35-40 degrees with the g/b pointing down.
While it's out it's a good opportunity to paint the chassis around that area.
It comes out (and goes back in) at quite an angle, about 35-40 degrees with the g/b pointing down.
While it's out it's a good opportunity to paint the chassis around that area.
adam quantrill said:
Not too hard, you need a crane with a full 500kg lift (I think) at full extension, with a 2m arm (1.8 might be just about enough) to clear the nosecone.
It comes out (and goes back in) at quite an angle, about 35-40 degrees with the g/b pointing down.
While it's out it's a good opportunity to paint the chassis around that area.
We have taken the engine and Gearbox out put the gearbox on another engine, and got it all back in and running in a day, don't think you would need 500KG I doubt they more than 250KG dry.It comes out (and goes back in) at quite an angle, about 35-40 degrees with the g/b pointing down.
While it's out it's a good opportunity to paint the chassis around that area.
We found the a novel way of getting them in and out, get a small person to stand onto of the engine and box while its on the crane, this why they can tilt the engine to fit / remove.
If you're going to replace the spigot bearing, and I'm assuming that means a "pilot bearing" (as in pilot hole) {in North American parlance} may I make a humble suggestion if your budget allows? Thanks.
Micrometer the ID/OD of the bearing, and replace it with a proper sealed bearing of the same dimensions. What's in there is garbage that has zero ability to stop grease from warming up and running out, which I might add could also work it's way between the clutch disk and flywheel. A good grease sealed bearing with rolling ball bearings inside would be far superior, and I can't see one being more than 20-30 GBP at a bearing shop. A bearing that small might run me $25 at the most here... but I'm too poor to afford one.
Micrometer the ID/OD of the bearing, and replace it with a proper sealed bearing of the same dimensions. What's in there is garbage that has zero ability to stop grease from warming up and running out, which I might add could also work it's way between the clutch disk and flywheel. A good grease sealed bearing with rolling ball bearings inside would be far superior, and I can't see one being more than 20-30 GBP at a bearing shop. A bearing that small might run me $25 at the most here... but I'm too poor to afford one.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
We found the a novel way of getting them in and out, get a small person to stand onto of the engine and box while its on the crane, this why they can tilt the engine to fit / remove.
We also used a strap from the hoist's hook to the front of the engine so Mike could adjust the angle then lock off the strap to hold it steady."If you cut part of the chassis away....."
thats the tinkerer-way...but seams nothing unusual in certain countries..
please don´t do it that way!!!
i would take the complete engine-gearbox unit out and use the chance also to replace some hidden bolts, nuts, gaskets on the engine.
thats the tinkerer-way...but seams nothing unusual in certain countries..
please don´t do it that way!!!
i would take the complete engine-gearbox unit out and use the chance also to replace some hidden bolts, nuts, gaskets on the engine.
Edited by Comadis on Sunday 11th October 00:32
Comadis said:
"If you cut part of the chassis away....."
thats the tinkerer-way...but seams nothing unusual in certain countries..
According to Vicky Butler Henderson in "The TVR Story" there's about 145 feet of "mild steel tubing" in a TVR. In my wedge I had to replace at least 10% of that steel.thats the tinkerer-way...but seams nothing unusual in certain countries..
Sixteen plus feet actually... over 10%.
It would be better to advise on how to get something RIGHT than to scare someone off from how it might go wrong. KNOWLEDGE is EVERYTHING!
@ sprevett, If any of your cross members between frame rails are fuxxored, you'll have to cut them out ANYHOW, and to do justice to the car. Suck them TIGHT with a wratchet strap, (with a 2x4 wood to keep proper spacing) and replace what needs replacing. Keep in mind over all dimensions and brace where needed.
If you DO NOT need to cut, then don't! But to say, as I've read here, "don't do it" for ANY reason is foolhardy.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Sunday 11th October 02:52
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