Custom Exhaust and Intercooler
Discussion
I have just finished putting the transmission back in and am still waiting to sort out the broken solenoid issue, so while the clam, diffuser and underpan was off i thought i would take a few pics.
The intercooler and exhaust were designed and developed by myself but i got the best Tig welder i know to put it all together.
The intercooler and exhaust were designed and developed by myself but i got the best Tig welder i know to put it all together.
The rear mesh although looks really see through on these pics, really finishes up the back end when the clam is back on, another pic below showing the strut welded back in and repainted, bit of dodgy Mig welding but nothing a bit of grinding up after didn't sort out, nobody would ever know 
You will notice i still have not connected the coolant sytem yet, pipes still hanging loose everywhere, but i am just waiting to get the strter back before i put everything back together properly.
Got the new instrument cluster in today, they look great but the photos did not do them justice so i will try to take some more tomorrow in better light.
Now i have to calibrate the speedo, the track length of 1 rotation with Toyo R888 is 1950mm, but the tread is low, so i reckon 2m exact sounds fair, or do i calibrate it to 2.2m to make the speedo make out the car is going faster than it actually is like Noble did, hmm, tempting, tempting
You will notice i still have not connected the coolant sytem yet, pipes still hanging loose everywhere, but i am just waiting to get the strter back before i put everything back together properly.
Got the new instrument cluster in today, they look great but the photos did not do them justice so i will try to take some more tomorrow in better light.
Now i have to calibrate the speedo, the track length of 1 rotation with Toyo R888 is 1950mm, but the tread is low, so i reckon 2m exact sounds fair, or do i calibrate it to 2.2m to make the speedo make out the car is going faster than it actually is like Noble did, hmm, tempting, tempting
Very quiet exhaust due to the solid tail pipes, thats what i wanted to achieve though, if you want a loud wailing banshee of an exhaust then try my old tail pipes, big empty cans, and put resonating chambers just inside the tip of the exhaust, its amazing what different exhaust sounds you can get with experiementing.
Here is a pic of my old tail pipes, big empty tinny things, these amplified the exhaust note immensely.
Here is a pic of my old tail pipes, big empty tinny things, these amplified the exhaust note immensely.
Gadgeroonie said:
looking good - i have a intercooler from a racing car that i plan to make fit at some stage its got a genuine behr core and its 130 mm deep !
did you weld up the system yourself ? does it use the stock downpipes ? how does it sound ?
It is 3" pipe straight through, with flexi joints, no cats.did you weld up the system yourself ? does it use the stock downpipes ? how does it sound ?
That intercooler you mentiond sounds like it has a bit too much volume, which will cause lag and you will get inconsistent boost, my intercooler although it looks big, has only 25% more volume than the standard, but it has 50% more cooling area than standard, a lot of thought has to go into a good intercooler design, just sticking a big volume intercooler on can seriously lower performance, especially on cars like nobles that have small turbo's and run low boost.
Gadgeroonie said:
how can you calibrate the speedo ?
Each time the wheel rotates, it sends a pulse to the speedo via the Ecu, so you set the ammount of pulses per Km or mile.Depends on the model of speedo, but you just hold the reset button on the speedo whilst turning on the ignition, the sets it into calibration mode, the odemeter will flash the current pulses per Km or mile, you press the reset button to the correct increment i.e. one rotation = 2m track, would be 500 pulses per km, so you just set the number to 500 pulses per Km. It is easier for me because my speedo is in KHH, so i can work it all out in metric which is simple.
For example if you set it 485 pulses per kilometre, and it will give a false reading and the speedo will make out you are going faster than you actually are, so you can cheat like Noble with their claim of 185mph top speed, when really you were doing 170mph.
Like i say you could really have some fun with this, look were doing 200mph
For MPH..63360 divided by the distance covered in inches by one rotation = tyre revs per mile, 63360/78.7 inches(2m)= 805 pulses per mile
For KMH.. 1000 divided by the distance covered in metres by one rotation = tyre revs per Kilometre, 1000/2m = 500 pulses per kilometre
There are 1609 metres in a mile, so to prove the calibrations would be the same for both, 500 pulses x 1.609 = 805 pulses.
Urbalizer said:
Gadgeroonie said:
how can you calibrate the speedo ?
Each time the wheel rotates, it sends a pulse to the speedo via the Ecu, so you set the ammount of pulses per Km or mile.Depends on the model of speedo, but you just hold the reset button on the speedo whilst turning on the ignition, the sets it into calibration mode, the odemeter will flash the current pulses per Km or mile, you press the reset button to the correct increment i.e. one rotation = 2m track, would be 500 pulses per km, so you just set the number to 500 pulses per Km. It is easier for me because my speedo is in KHH, so i can work it all out in metric which is simple.
For example if you set it 485 pulses per kilometre, and it will give a false reading and the speedo will make out you are going faster than you actually are, so you can cheat like Noble with their claim of 185mph top speed, when really you were doing 170mph.
Like i say you could really have some fun with this, look were doing 200mph
For MPH..63360 divided by the distance covered in inches by one rotation = tyre revs per mile, 63360/78.7 inches(2m)= 805 pulses per mile
For KMH.. 1000 divided by the distance covered in metres by one rotation = tyre revs per Kilometre, 1000/2m = 500 pulses per kilometre
There are 1609 metres in a mile, so to prove the calibrations would be the same for both, 500 pulses x 1.609 = 805 pulses.
lol Devil Come on, this stuff is simple maths, i think your winding me up.
One rotation of your wheel and the car covers 2m, there are 1000m in a kilometre,so in a kilometre your wheel would rotate 500 times, so if you tell your speedo 500 rotations/pulses = 1 kilometre, then the speedo lets you know how much ground you are covering, hence the ammount of kilometres you could cover in an hour
Come on, this stuff is simple maths, i think your winding me up.One rotation of your wheel and the car covers 2m, there are 1000m in a kilometre,so in a kilometre your wheel would rotate 500 times, so if you tell your speedo 500 rotations/pulses = 1 kilometre, then the speedo lets you know how much ground you are covering, hence the ammount of kilometres you could cover in an hour
Gadgeroonie said:
how do we find out if the noble speedo can be calibrated ?
there was a thread years ago where somebody posted a link to the company that made the gauges for noble
can anyone remember who they are
Caerbont Automotive Instruments mades the original gauges. http://www.caigauge.com/there was a thread years ago where somebody posted a link to the company that made the gauges for noble
can anyone remember who they are
Gadgeroonie said:
how do we find out if the noble speedo can be calibrated ?
It can be:http://www.caigauge.com/page27.html
Edited by peterguk M500 on Sunday 11th October 23:48
peterguk M500 said:
Gadgeroonie said:
how do we find out if the noble speedo can be calibrated ?
It can be:http://www.caigauge.com/page27.html
Mine's set to 8290 = 1011110010
Not that I'm using it anymore anyway
Edited by MrCredit on Monday 12th October 00:13
Here is the pic of the with the rear clam back on, you will seee that mesh covering the silencers is quite effective and finishes the car off nicely, without it i thought the back end just looked unfinished.
Eventually got the solenoid replacement for the one i broke getting the starter out, during the transmission upgrade, so finally got it all put back together.
Top up the coolant and engine oil, took it for a spin, the gear changes and clutch were ultra smooth, like driving it from new again, apart from breaking the solenoid, things went quite smoothly. Well done gearboxman,what a difference!!
Just needs a good clean and polish now
Eventually got the solenoid replacement for the one i broke getting the starter out, during the transmission upgrade, so finally got it all put back together.
Top up the coolant and engine oil, took it for a spin, the gear changes and clutch were ultra smooth, like driving it from new again, apart from breaking the solenoid, things went quite smoothly. Well done gearboxman,what a difference!!
Just needs a good clean and polish now
MrCredit said:
peterguk M500 said:
Gadgeroonie said:
how do we find out if the noble speedo can be calibrated ?
It can be:http://www.caigauge.com/page27.html
Mine's set to 8290 = 1011110010
Not that I'm using it anymore anyway
Edited by MrCredit on Monday 12th October 00:13
When I first purchased my Noble my speedo was reading out, I contacted the factory and they confirmed the following setting:
Noble Dip Switch Settings for 10 Switch Speedo
"#1 on #2 off #3 on #4 on #5 on #6 on #7 off #8 off #9 on #10 off"
Once I changed mine the speedo read the same as my GPS.
If you have a non standard set up then you could create your own settings using the instructions on this site: http://www.greengauges.com/help.asp
Eddie
Noble Dip Switch Settings for 10 Switch Speedo
"#1 on #2 off #3 on #4 on #5 on #6 on #7 off #8 off #9 on #10 off"
Once I changed mine the speedo read the same as my GPS.
If you have a non standard set up then you could create your own settings using the instructions on this site: http://www.greengauges.com/help.asp
Eddie
sorry i missed a bit on the calibration, you have to multiply the rotations per/km by 10 because they are 10 spokes on one rotation, i.e 10 pulses, so simply,
1000m/2 = 500x10 = 5000 pulses, this is the calibration in km, in mph it would just be 805x10 = 8050 pulses.
I calibrated it properly and followed another my dads car at 60 mph, the speedo was bang on, but there is still room for tolerance/error because my dads car could be 5mph out, close enough though, the new gauges are calibrated digitally so very simple to do, i mounted the calibration button mounted just under the instrument cluster, which links to the speedo, so recalibration can de done in seconds without taking the speedo out, be weary of calibrating to make the car seem faster, as it will make the car appear it has done more milage than it actually has.
Another reason i changed the gauges,the original Noble speedo was jumping up to 120mph when i was doing 30mph, after a year this can put an extra 1000 false miles on the speedo.
1000m/2 = 500x10 = 5000 pulses, this is the calibration in km, in mph it would just be 805x10 = 8050 pulses.
I calibrated it properly and followed another my dads car at 60 mph, the speedo was bang on, but there is still room for tolerance/error because my dads car could be 5mph out, close enough though, the new gauges are calibrated digitally so very simple to do, i mounted the calibration button mounted just under the instrument cluster, which links to the speedo, so recalibration can de done in seconds without taking the speedo out, be weary of calibrating to make the car seem faster, as it will make the car appear it has done more milage than it actually has.
Another reason i changed the gauges,the original Noble speedo was jumping up to 120mph when i was doing 30mph, after a year this can put an extra 1000 false miles on the speedo.
Urbalizer said:
sorry i missed a bit on the calibration, you have to multiply the rotations per/km by 10 because they are 10 spokes on one rotation, i.e 10 pulses, so simply,
1000m/2 = 500x10 = 5000 pulses, this is the calibration in km, in mph it would just be 805x10 = 8050 pulses.
I calibrated it properly and followed another my dads car at 60 mph, the speedo was bang on, but there is still room for tolerance/error because my dads car could be 5mph out, close enough though, the new gauges are calibrated digitally so very simple to do, i mounted the calibration button mounted just under the instrument cluster, which links to the speedo, so recalibration can de done in seconds without taking the speedo out, be weary of calibrating to make the car seem faster, as it will make the car appear it has done more milage than it actually has.
Another reason i changed the gauges,the original Noble speedo was jumping up to 120mph when i was doing 30mph, after a year this can put an extra 1000 false miles on the speedo.
Its just simple maths 1000m/2 = 500x10 = 5000 pulses, this is the calibration in km, in mph it would just be 805x10 = 8050 pulses.
I calibrated it properly and followed another my dads car at 60 mph, the speedo was bang on, but there is still room for tolerance/error because my dads car could be 5mph out, close enough though, the new gauges are calibrated digitally so very simple to do, i mounted the calibration button mounted just under the instrument cluster, which links to the speedo, so recalibration can de done in seconds without taking the speedo out, be weary of calibrating to make the car seem faster, as it will make the car appear it has done more milage than it actually has.
Another reason i changed the gauges,the original Noble speedo was jumping up to 120mph when i was doing 30mph, after a year this can put an extra 1000 false miles on the speedo.
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