Plasterboard or plastering??
Discussion
Its an old victorian flat so the walls currently have the imperfections in them from the dodgy old builders, etc...
My flat at some stage needs completely replastering (floors and walls)...
Some of the walls are solid and some are clearly particians walls (so built on a frame)... will the solid walls be that nasty crap that is plaster, wood slats over the brickwork and a hell of a lot of mess?
So which is better?
Use insulated plasterboard - plasterboard with a solid insulation sheet bonded to the back. You can dot -and-dab this just like normal plasterboard.
Or re-plaster everything?
Can the ceiling be done in the same way?
Obviously the cost/speed is a factor as I only need someone to skim the pasterboard if I do it myself and even if I didnt, isnt it quicker and cheaper than a whole re-plaster?
What are the kinds of costs I should be looking at?
I would just like flat, smooth walls for once in my life and then in the same go I can fit some proper lighting to the flat when the ceils come down and some funky dimmer switches using remote control.
As a side question, is LED or normal lights better for lighting?
Cheers.
My flat at some stage needs completely replastering (floors and walls)...
Some of the walls are solid and some are clearly particians walls (so built on a frame)... will the solid walls be that nasty crap that is plaster, wood slats over the brickwork and a hell of a lot of mess?
So which is better?
Use insulated plasterboard - plasterboard with a solid insulation sheet bonded to the back. You can dot -and-dab this just like normal plasterboard.
Or re-plaster everything?
Can the ceiling be done in the same way?
Obviously the cost/speed is a factor as I only need someone to skim the pasterboard if I do it myself and even if I didnt, isnt it quicker and cheaper than a whole re-plaster?
What are the kinds of costs I should be looking at?
I would just like flat, smooth walls for once in my life and then in the same go I can fit some proper lighting to the flat when the ceils come down and some funky dimmer switches using remote control.
As a side question, is LED or normal lights better for lighting?
Cheers.
Where to start...
If the walls are rough but sound the quickest and least dusty way forward would be to slimply remove any loose / blown areas, then have the whole lot skimmed. You'll have to have it skimmed anyway, if boarded out or floated.
Your "solid" walls are probably that - (poss. load bearing) brick/block walls, with a solid layer of browning/bonding plaster or concrete (ca. 1/2") and a skim of finer plaster to give the top face. (might not be skimmed, but probably is). If these can simply have another layer of skim it will be far the easiest. If this isn't an option, you need to remove all the old plaster back to the brick, prime and then replaster. You could "dot and dab" plasterboard or insulated plasterboard, this is quick, easy and cheap, though not as durable as solid plaster and a pig to fix things to. The other option is to have the wall plastered solid - where instead of a layer of plaster board you have solid plaster direct onto the brick. This is a more pukka solution, but maynot be needed.
In a victorian place if the external walls are crumbing, I'd replace the old plaster with insulated plaster board. Needs to be done properly to ensure there are no cold brigdes (is that the term?) - there are guidlines for this on t'web (try the gyproc site), else you'll get cold spots where damp will form is it's the coldest point in the room.
Suspended ceilings and partition walls will likely be lathe and plaster (plaster on wood strips) - the changeover happened in the period between the wars I think. You can replaster the lath, but easier to rip down and reboard.
As a side note, you really don't want to be in there when this is happening. The dust is impossible to comprehend (and will be for months), and will get everywhere. Also a good idea to use at least a P3 rated respirator (circa £20) instead of cheap dust mask as it's a lot more comfortable for longer periods and should reduce the risk of any hidden asbestos.
If the walls are rough but sound the quickest and least dusty way forward would be to slimply remove any loose / blown areas, then have the whole lot skimmed. You'll have to have it skimmed anyway, if boarded out or floated.
Your "solid" walls are probably that - (poss. load bearing) brick/block walls, with a solid layer of browning/bonding plaster or concrete (ca. 1/2") and a skim of finer plaster to give the top face. (might not be skimmed, but probably is). If these can simply have another layer of skim it will be far the easiest. If this isn't an option, you need to remove all the old plaster back to the brick, prime and then replaster. You could "dot and dab" plasterboard or insulated plasterboard, this is quick, easy and cheap, though not as durable as solid plaster and a pig to fix things to. The other option is to have the wall plastered solid - where instead of a layer of plaster board you have solid plaster direct onto the brick. This is a more pukka solution, but maynot be needed.
In a victorian place if the external walls are crumbing, I'd replace the old plaster with insulated plaster board. Needs to be done properly to ensure there are no cold brigdes (is that the term?) - there are guidlines for this on t'web (try the gyproc site), else you'll get cold spots where damp will form is it's the coldest point in the room.
Suspended ceilings and partition walls will likely be lathe and plaster (plaster on wood strips) - the changeover happened in the period between the wars I think. You can replaster the lath, but easier to rip down and reboard.
As a side note, you really don't want to be in there when this is happening. The dust is impossible to comprehend (and will be for months), and will get everywhere. Also a good idea to use at least a P3 rated respirator (circa £20) instead of cheap dust mask as it's a lot more comfortable for longer periods and should reduce the risk of any hidden asbestos.
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