How to "cut in"?
Discussion
Morning (actually, afternoon) all,
Seems like a simple question. But a couple of months into rather a lot of decorating at my girlfriend's house and I'm still struggling to "cut in" - i.e. painting a line up to a new surface, be that ceiling, coving, door frames etc.
We've tried masking, but the line although straight is never perfect.
Does anyone have any tips on how to do it more effectively? I have had a search and simply can't find anything at all on tinterweb?!
Builders are in this morning knocking through a wall, so we're close to part B of operation "decorate shedloads".
Seems like a simple question. But a couple of months into rather a lot of decorating at my girlfriend's house and I'm still struggling to "cut in" - i.e. painting a line up to a new surface, be that ceiling, coving, door frames etc.
We've tried masking, but the line although straight is never perfect.
Does anyone have any tips on how to do it more effectively? I have had a search and simply can't find anything at all on tinterweb?!
Builders are in this morning knocking through a wall, so we're close to part B of operation "decorate shedloads".
ok,
Firstly you don't want a small brush!
I use a big 3" brush, that way you can load it right up with paint.
Make sure that the bristles of your brush are all tight and line up nicely at the tip, you can splay the tip out on a piece of wood and use a stanley knife to remove any errant bristles.
When loading with paint dip about an inch into the paint and slap the brush against the side of the tin, this will remove any excess that is liable to drip when you put pressure on it.
Start about half an inch from the line you want to follow and gently bring it in while going down (oo-er!!) start away from door frame, start dragging brush down while pulling towards frame, at some point you'll be on line and have a good feel for how the brush is moving. once your line is finished go to the top again and finish the first "practice" bit (you wont need practice bits for long!)
Remember to only cut in what you can fill in before it dries. You always want a wet edge when painting otherwise you'll always see the cutting in!
Firstly you don't want a small brush!
I use a big 3" brush, that way you can load it right up with paint.
Make sure that the bristles of your brush are all tight and line up nicely at the tip, you can splay the tip out on a piece of wood and use a stanley knife to remove any errant bristles.
When loading with paint dip about an inch into the paint and slap the brush against the side of the tin, this will remove any excess that is liable to drip when you put pressure on it.
Start about half an inch from the line you want to follow and gently bring it in while going down (oo-er!!) start away from door frame, start dragging brush down while pulling towards frame, at some point you'll be on line and have a good feel for how the brush is moving. once your line is finished go to the top again and finish the first "practice" bit (you wont need practice bits for long!)
Remember to only cut in what you can fill in before it dries. You always want a wet edge when painting otherwise you'll always see the cutting in!
). They are expensive but, a good two inch Purdy should last a DIY'er a life-time (if looked after properly).the above + practice is the only way. a good brush pays dividends.
you can achieve a better edge than you are doing if you mask in straight lines rather than following the imperfect edge where ceiling joins wall. there'll only be a mm or 2 between the masked line and the actual line, which you won't notice when dry.
you can achieve a better edge than you are doing if you mask in straight lines rather than following the imperfect edge where ceiling joins wall. there'll only be a mm or 2 between the masked line and the actual line, which you won't notice when dry.
All good advice above. Agreed masking tape goes so far but in the end just can't cut it. Arf Arf
The other thing I do to help the steady hand is to extend the little finger* and get support from a nearby surface. Thus you can keep contact and slide down the wall, say, with an extra point of reference and therefore reduce and shaking.
The other thing I do to help the steady hand is to extend the little finger* and get support from a nearby surface. Thus you can keep contact and slide down the wall, say, with an extra point of reference and therefore reduce and shaking.
- * Imagine Hyacinth Bucket etc holding a tea cup with little finger sticking out.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff