Correct positioning of S/Heath drop links.
Discussion
Can someone confirm that these drop links are positioned correctly.
I also have a clattery rattle, (only heard driving slow over a bumpy surface, that will be most of England then!), from about the axle position.
I have tightened and checked everything, my suspicion is that when these drop links wear a bit, they rattle, is this true.
I also have a clattery rattle, (only heard driving slow over a bumpy surface, that will be most of England then!), from about the axle position.
I have tightened and checked everything, my suspicion is that when these drop links wear a bit, they rattle, is this true.
I have these droplinks front and back, and they rattle badly when the wheels aren't on an even surface i.e the ARB is acted upon. I've tried all sorts, adjusted them following the instructions, sent e-mails to Steve Heath, stripped them off, put them back on again, had an indie try and fix it etc etc. The noise is so bad (and getting worse) that I'm giving up and going back to the original items.
Maybe handling will be marginally worse, but I won't have pessengers thinking the suspension is falling off.
My suspicion is that the problem is where the drop links bolt to the wishbone and/or ARB. After 15 years (in my case) the holes won't be exactly the same size at the bolts as they'll be worn, and however tight you do up the bolts, the forces as the wheels rise and fall will make the bolts move within the holes, causing an audible rattle. Just my guess though.
Maybe handling will be marginally worse, but I won't have pessengers thinking the suspension is falling off.
My suspicion is that the problem is where the drop links bolt to the wishbone and/or ARB. After 15 years (in my case) the holes won't be exactly the same size at the bolts as they'll be worn, and however tight you do up the bolts, the forces as the wheels rise and fall will make the bolts move within the holes, causing an audible rattle. Just my guess though.
instructions
It'll be the spherical bearings rattling; they can be quite noisy... I use a ceramic motorcycle chainlube spray (just 'cos I have some around) that goes on thin then thickens up once it's penetrated... it quietens them for a bit. Best way to shut the rears up is to ditch the ARB
It'll be the spherical bearings rattling; they can be quite noisy... I use a ceramic motorcycle chainlube spray (just 'cos I have some around) that goes on thin then thickens up once it's penetrated... it quietens them for a bit. Best way to shut the rears up is to ditch the ARB
haircutmike said:
Can someone confirm that these drop links are positioned correctly.
I also have a clattery rattle, (only heard driving slow over a bumpy surface, that will be most of England then!), from about the axle position.
I have tightened and checked everything, my suspicion is that when these drop links wear a bit, they rattle, is this true.
I also have a clattery rattle, (only heard driving slow over a bumpy surface, that will be most of England then!), from about the axle position.
I have tightened and checked everything, my suspicion is that when these drop links wear a bit, they rattle, is this true.
Peter, I think mine are orientated the same as yours. No probs as yet, but reckon mine have done a few less miles than yours ( and no track days !)
Roy, we must stop meeting like this!
Seems yours are 90 degrees out as well.
Just adjusted mine as the S/H instructions, (I never fitted mine in the first place, no names etc!).
I will give them a squirt of chain lube and test tomorrow, I will let you know!
By the way, can you PM me details of your "4 poster"!
Peter.
Seems yours are 90 degrees out as well.
Just adjusted mine as the S/H instructions, (I never fitted mine in the first place, no names etc!).
I will give them a squirt of chain lube and test tomorrow, I will let you know!
By the way, can you PM me details of your "4 poster"!
Peter.
The position looks fine as far as I can tell. The problem is that there is a lot of variation is how the ARB was positioned and for some cars, swivelling the links by 90 degrees can help. The important thing is to check what happens by jacking the car up on one side with the other wheel on the ground and making sure that the link does not lock out or touch anything.
As for rattles....
The most common cause is the mistaken belief that the joints pivot on the bolts and that they should not be tight. This is incorrect. The bolt is there to clamp the sides of the joint to the yoke /ARB so that everything pivots correctly. This means that the bolt must be tight. All that may be needed is the nuts to be nipped up a bit.
If the unit is not orientated correctly, the joints can touch the yoke or ARB and give a little click. This can also lead to premature failure.
Don't forget the rest of the suspension:
Check that ARB bushes and brackets are not worn.
Check that the rest of the suspension is in good condition. Other rattle causing problems include;
Broken mounting plate
Worn wishbone bushes
Loose suspension bolts
Loose shock bolts
Faulty shocks
Debris
Do the joints wear?
Yes, like anything on a car they can wear with the rate depending on what the car has experienced. The ones on my cars have been there for years and the cars get driven in all weathers.
To check for wear, pull/push on the ARB on one side to see if there is any movement. If there is, then it could be a worn joint or a loose mounting bolt. Both give the same feeling. Disconnecting one side by slackening off the big top mount bolt and repeating the push/pull process can help with diagnosis.
If the joint is worn... they can be replaced - contact me.
One final thing...
I do not recommend spraying them with grease or anything as this often causes premature wear. The joints have a teflon liner which provides the lubrication. Grease etc has this habit of attracting grit and dirt so that it gets trapped and this causes the premature wear.
As for rattles....
The most common cause is the mistaken belief that the joints pivot on the bolts and that they should not be tight. This is incorrect. The bolt is there to clamp the sides of the joint to the yoke /ARB so that everything pivots correctly. This means that the bolt must be tight. All that may be needed is the nuts to be nipped up a bit.
If the unit is not orientated correctly, the joints can touch the yoke or ARB and give a little click. This can also lead to premature failure.
Don't forget the rest of the suspension:
Check that ARB bushes and brackets are not worn.
Check that the rest of the suspension is in good condition. Other rattle causing problems include;
Broken mounting plate
Worn wishbone bushes
Loose suspension bolts
Loose shock bolts
Faulty shocks
Debris
Do the joints wear?
Yes, like anything on a car they can wear with the rate depending on what the car has experienced. The ones on my cars have been there for years and the cars get driven in all weathers.
To check for wear, pull/push on the ARB on one side to see if there is any movement. If there is, then it could be a worn joint or a loose mounting bolt. Both give the same feeling. Disconnecting one side by slackening off the big top mount bolt and repeating the push/pull process can help with diagnosis.
If the joint is worn... they can be replaced - contact me.
One final thing...
I do not recommend spraying them with grease or anything as this often causes premature wear. The joints have a teflon liner which provides the lubrication. Grease etc has this habit of attracting grit and dirt so that it gets trapped and this causes the premature wear.
[quote=Pupp] instructions
This linked to an old version. I've updated it so that is goes to the latest fitting instructions.
This linked to an old version. I've updated it so that is goes to the latest fitting instructions.
Peter,
IIRC I fitted my original Steve Heath drop links the same as yours in the pic and after not much time, I was getting knocking / rattling from the rear. I took the car to Neil Garner for a service and asked him to check it out. Almost immediately he said that that orientation caused excessive wear in the rose joints creating the rattling. Steve supplied replacements and Neil fitted them so that the line of travel/movement was with the joints rather than against them. In other words, a 90 degree shift from your pic. Since then, I've had no problems at all. Steve & Neil
IIRC I fitted my original Steve Heath drop links the same as yours in the pic and after not much time, I was getting knocking / rattling from the rear. I took the car to Neil Garner for a service and asked him to check it out. Almost immediately he said that that orientation caused excessive wear in the rose joints creating the rattling. Steve supplied replacements and Neil fitted them so that the line of travel/movement was with the joints rather than against them. In other words, a 90 degree shift from your pic. Since then, I've had no problems at all. Steve & Neil
Changed the positioning of the rear as said yesterday.
Checked the fronts and one of the drop links was on the wrong side of the ARB, therefor about 30 degrees out of line!
Repositioned that one and went for a test over some nice bumpy rural lanes.
Would you believe it, about 70-80% of the rattling has gone but even better, when I reverse after stopping from forward motion, the clonk that has been present for ages, has gone
!
The down side is, I have probably just renewed all 4 CV's for now't
.
Ah well, it's all good experience I suppose
.
The moral of the story is, even so called specialist garages can get it wrong, (fitting the drop links not the C/V's).
Peter, (happy bunny).
Checked the fronts and one of the drop links was on the wrong side of the ARB, therefor about 30 degrees out of line!
Repositioned that one and went for a test over some nice bumpy rural lanes.
Would you believe it, about 70-80% of the rattling has gone but even better, when I reverse after stopping from forward motion, the clonk that has been present for ages, has gone
!The down side is, I have probably just renewed all 4 CV's for now't
.Ah well, it's all good experience I suppose
.The moral of the story is, even so called specialist garages can get it wrong, (fitting the drop links not the C/V's).
Peter, (happy bunny).
haircutmike said:
Repositioned that one and went for a test over some nice bumpy rural lanes.
Would you believe it, about 70-80% of the rattling has gone but even better, when I reverse after stopping from forward motion, the clonk that has been present for ages, has gone !
I was wrong!Would you believe it, about 70-80% of the rattling has gone but even better, when I reverse after stopping from forward motion, the clonk that has been present for ages, has gone
!Had a nice top down drive to Arundel via lotsa lanes, thats the good bit.
While parking on a hill, on selecting reverse and taking up the strain, you get a clonkish sort of noise from the diff area and you can feel it through the car.
I haven't renewed the diff bushes, they seem fine.
If you are travelling normally and you throttle on and off to induce a backlash clunk, there is nothing.
Question;
Do you get a bit of a clunk from the rear due to the LSD, (when reversing after stopping forward motion).
If so, is this normal?
P.
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