Installing downlights
Discussion
Hi,
I'm doing a false wall A/V installation at home and would like to compliment the set up with some downlights, these will be in place of 2 ceiling roses.
The room is appx 6m x 3 m so I am thinking something along the lines of 9 lights.
Its easy to drill holes in the ceiling no doubt but how do you run the cables? I presume I will have to get through the joists concealed by the plasterboard. So, is there any other alternative to going upstairs and ripping the floor up?
Ta
I'm doing a false wall A/V installation at home and would like to compliment the set up with some downlights, these will be in place of 2 ceiling roses.
The room is appx 6m x 3 m so I am thinking something along the lines of 9 lights.
Its easy to drill holes in the ceiling no doubt but how do you run the cables? I presume I will have to get through the joists concealed by the plasterboard. So, is there any other alternative to going upstairs and ripping the floor up?
Ta
You only really have two options either as you said remove floorboards above and do it that way(the right way) or you can notch the plasterboard from below( not ideal ) but this will mean re skimming the ceiling, in my experience you can nearly always see where the holes are after they have been filled.
bananapieface said:
Ta,
Looks like the floor boards are coming up, its a new build so they probably aren't secured anyway :-)
I'm sure its going to pain me doing it but I feel I'll be selling myself short if I don't whilst everything else is getting done.
If its new build there is a high liklihood its chipboard which will be in sheets that run under stud walls. Also if an engineered joist system such as silent floor has been used the chipboard will be screwed and should also be glued. Not as easy to get up as you may think. If you are making holes through the web on an engineered joist its best to use a small hole saw rather than a drill. (i was told that by a site manager but cant remember why)Looks like the floor boards are coming up, its a new build so they probably aren't secured anyway :-)
I'm sure its going to pain me doing it but I feel I'll be selling myself short if I don't whilst everything else is getting done.
If you take up chipboard screw it back down with screws that have a thread right up to the head otherwise they will squeak. (I was a Director of a major housebuilder for many years and this was a big problem)
I've done it both ways:
Unless it was a very simple floor above, I would go for the cutting into the ceiling method. Dremel have a nice attachment which can help cut into the plasterboard (you can set it at 12.5mm) to minimise the disruption to the ceiling, which makes the patching quite simple (and, if done properly, undetectable).
Handy Dremel attachment
jeebus said:
You only really have two options either as you said remove floorboards above and do it that way(the right way) or you can notch the plasterboard from below( not ideal ) but this will mean re skimming the ceiling, in my experience you can nearly always see where the holes are after they have been filled.
The risk with this is that if the flooring has been fitted before the skirting boards (and is made up of sheets of chipboard as opposed to traditional floorboards), it will mean either removing the skirting boards as well, or cutting the flooring which is difficult (if you don't know where the joists are) and will often leave a squeaky floor when you've done (regardless of how well you re-secure it). Unless it was a very simple floor above, I would go for the cutting into the ceiling method. Dremel have a nice attachment which can help cut into the plasterboard (you can set it at 12.5mm) to minimise the disruption to the ceiling, which makes the patching quite simple (and, if done properly, undetectable).
Handy Dremel attachment
I had the same problem in a kitchen. I got round it by putting the downlights centred between every other joist. I then used a long drill to make a hole in each joist, reaching through the downlight apertures, and used a piece of stiff wire to thread the cable through -tricky, but it can be done! The hardest bit is hitting the hole in the second joist whilst manoeuvering through the first hole.
V10Mike said:
I had the same problem in a kitchen. I got round it by putting the downlights centred between every other joist. I then used a long drill to make a hole in each joist, reaching through the downlight apertures, and used a piece of stiff wire to thread the cable through -tricky, but it can be done! The hardest bit is hitting the hole in the second joist whilst manoeuvering through the first hole.
Have you considered a career as a gynaechologist?bananapieface said:
Liking the idea of cutting a little channel out the ceiling for the cables, can't see why it would be detectable afterwards as long as yo do a good job.
Perfectly acceptable to do it this way, seen many sparks do this and no, you shouldn't see any defects in the ceiling if care is taken.V12Les said:
bananapieface said:
Liking the idea of cutting a little channel out the ceiling for the cables, can't see why it would be detectable afterwards as long as yo do a good job.
Perfectly acceptable to do it this way, seen many sparks do this and no, you shouldn't see any defects in the ceiling if care is taken.
...and you don't have to cut full length channels, just enough to manipulate the cables from point-to-point.
monthefish said:
V12Les said:
bananapieface said:
Liking the idea of cutting a little channel out the ceiling for the cables, can't see why it would be detectable afterwards as long as yo do a good job.
Perfectly acceptable to do it this way, seen many sparks do this and no, you shouldn't see any defects in the ceiling if care is taken....and you don't have to cut full length channels, just enough to manipulate the cables from point-to-point.
be at least 50mm from the top or bottom of joist or
have a earthed armouring or an earth metal sheath,
be enclosed in earthed steel conduit or trunking,
be provided with mechanical protection sufficient to prevent penertation of the cable by nail, screw and the like.
The requirement to prevent penertration is difficult to meet!
Maximum diameter of hole should be 0.25 x joist depth
holes in the same joist should be at least 3 diameters apart.
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