Battery isolation
Battery isolation
Author
Discussion

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
I've removed all aftermarket electronic gear, changed 100A fuse and the battery is charging. However after a few weeks parked up the battery is drained.

Rather than try and fault find I think I'd rather just put an isolator in. The batter earth seems to be easier to isolate. Would be nice if I could isolate from the driver's seat.

Any ideas?

mikesr

672 posts

261 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
Doesn't turning the silver key isolate most things?

The positive lead comes in through the bulkhead to a second 100amp fuse above the passenger knees. Thats probably the easiest point to wire in an isolator.

Guillotine

5,516 posts

294 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
Thats pretty normal Jon.

The alarm will drain the battery in this time (2-3 weeks) enough to fail starting.

Stick an accumate on it (the alarm will be unaffected) or use a solar dash charger.
Modern ones have regulators and protection and should keep the battery A1.

Andy

Ireland

3,517 posts

244 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
I'd suggest to check if it's either the diodes gone in the alternator or something dodgy in the radio drawing more "memory" power than it should.

I've had both of those issues on "sensible" cars in the last couple of years.

davvid

38 posts

238 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
You can (or could) buy an electronically operated isolation switch worked buy a remote key fob,which would fit your criteria.I think they used to cost approx £100.

GreenV8S

31,019 posts

314 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
I would suggest fitting the isolator at the battery. There are essentially three types of isolator. A simple mechanical switch (battery cut-off) costs a few quid. Not so good if you have electrically operated door locks. A manually controlled electronic isolator would need you to remember to disconnect/reconnect via a key fob each time you leave the car. Fully automatic isolators will automatically disconnect when the battery starts to run low. Some reconnect automatically, some need to be reconnected manually (via a key fob).

jonbarrett

Original Poster:

800 posts

232 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
Loads of ideas. Thanks.

I only want to isolate the barrety when the car is garaged for a while. There is no power, so no charger. I tried a solar charger but it still went flat eventually.

The garage is tight so opening the bonnet and getting to the battery is a pain.

I wondered about interupting the live where it joins the 2nd 100A fuse above the passenger's knee. That way I could put a simple mechanical switch in the cab. I always leave the window open so I can open the door with the pull handle.

I also like the idea of the auto isolator that senses the battery voltage. Any supplier suggestions?

What circuits does the silver key switch off?

GreenV8S

31,019 posts

314 months

Saturday 31st October 2009
quotequote all
jonbarrett said:
I also like the idea of the auto isolator that senses the battery voltage. Any supplier suggestions?
Mine is a Priority Start, I don't know of a UK supplier but perhaps there is one.