Well that was fun
Discussion
What a joyful weekend.
Spent about 18hrs working on cars, but what should have been the easiest job was the worst by a mile.
Front N/S top ball joint. 2 bolts and 4 set screws, how hard could it be?
The back bolt which is part of the drop link was a little tight. Wedged it, tapped it gently, bit harder, harder still and knocked the living crap out of it. Did not budge. Soaked in penetrol overnight and turned attention to allen set screws (cap screws). Heads broke on first 2. Time for beer and bed.
Next day tried drop link bolt again. Still seized. Decided blow lamp and freeze spray did nothing.
Out came the disc cutter.
Cut ball joint in half and removed wishbone. Put it in the vice and selected biggest hammer in my armoury, fully anticipating being able to drive link out. Not a hope.
Disc cut the top half of ball joint out of wishbone, destroying drop link but it was worth it.
Back to the set screws. Drilled 1 OK and manage to budge with an easi-out. 1 more to go. Snapped drill.
Eventually got it out after persisting with an easi-out, but I had to keep grinding it down and hammering it home as the screw head was gradually chewed away. New stainless screws from Screwfix used on reassembly (with screwlock).
So after 8hrs, I finally changed the balljoint (minus droplink, but good for now). My hands are bruised and battered. I could not sleep Saturday night as I cannot accept defeat, so spent the ealy hours plotting my next move.
Lessons? If I were to do another the following are my tips.
1. Penetrol bolts day before
2. Don't risk chewing up set screws. Remove rubber boot from old ball joint and disc cut through it (aim sparks into car to avoid paintwork. (assuming you have no oil or petrol leaks)
3. Having disc cut joint, set screws are easier to get at. Clean heads out with a scriber or similar, and grind allen key / drive down so that it is perfectly flat at end. This ensures torque is down full depth of head. Make sure you tap it fully home.
4. Replace set screws with screwfix stainless and studlock or similar. Use a good quality ball-ended allen key.
5. Never tell the missus you are doing a quick job on the car, will only take 1/2 hour!
Maximum respect to those of you who have done full chassis rebuilds. Looking forward to that one
Onto the next job then
Spent about 18hrs working on cars, but what should have been the easiest job was the worst by a mile.
Front N/S top ball joint. 2 bolts and 4 set screws, how hard could it be?
The back bolt which is part of the drop link was a little tight. Wedged it, tapped it gently, bit harder, harder still and knocked the living crap out of it. Did not budge. Soaked in penetrol overnight and turned attention to allen set screws (cap screws). Heads broke on first 2. Time for beer and bed.
Next day tried drop link bolt again. Still seized. Decided blow lamp and freeze spray did nothing.
Out came the disc cutter.
Cut ball joint in half and removed wishbone. Put it in the vice and selected biggest hammer in my armoury, fully anticipating being able to drive link out. Not a hope.
Disc cut the top half of ball joint out of wishbone, destroying drop link but it was worth it.
Back to the set screws. Drilled 1 OK and manage to budge with an easi-out. 1 more to go. Snapped drill.
Eventually got it out after persisting with an easi-out, but I had to keep grinding it down and hammering it home as the screw head was gradually chewed away. New stainless screws from Screwfix used on reassembly (with screwlock).
So after 8hrs, I finally changed the balljoint (minus droplink, but good for now). My hands are bruised and battered. I could not sleep Saturday night as I cannot accept defeat, so spent the ealy hours plotting my next move.
Lessons? If I were to do another the following are my tips.
1. Penetrol bolts day before
2. Don't risk chewing up set screws. Remove rubber boot from old ball joint and disc cut through it (aim sparks into car to avoid paintwork. (assuming you have no oil or petrol leaks)
3. Having disc cut joint, set screws are easier to get at. Clean heads out with a scriber or similar, and grind allen key / drive down so that it is perfectly flat at end. This ensures torque is down full depth of head. Make sure you tap it fully home.
4. Replace set screws with screwfix stainless and studlock or similar. Use a good quality ball-ended allen key.
5. Never tell the missus you are doing a quick job on the car, will only take 1/2 hour!
Maximum respect to those of you who have done full chassis rebuilds. Looking forward to that one
Onto the next job then
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