Sea-Gull incoming
Discussion
Very interesting subdial setup!
I first thought it was some mad date display - the three subdials showing day name, day number, and month number. There *also* appears to be a hole in the dial at 6 which is where you'd often put a datewheel - showing the day number - but that's already accounted for by the subdial at 6.
Then I looked again and realised that the subdial at 6 wasn't showing day number, but has a 1-24 dial and a conspicuous red arrow so is likely to be a GMT complication i.e. second time zone. The two pushers at 2 and 4 are probably (like the pushers on a JLC Reverso GMT) to quickly and easily set the second time zone, for all you first-class travelling jet-set types out there.
It must be a US market watch - the day names are in English and Sea-Gull don't market to the UK AFAIK.
It'll probably be a variant of the ST16 but I can't find a movement on their website that matches it exactly. The second time zone could be a variant of the day/night indicator found on their 'example movements' pages as that rotates once every 24 hours, but I can't find the day on left and month on right subdial.
On first glance I thought it was a chrono and would therefore have Sea-Gull's lovely ST21 'Venus' column-wheel chrono movement, but nope. It'll be an automatic though.
The 'tachymeter' print on the outside of the dial / rehaut suggests that the second hand can be independently stopped and started i.e. as per a chronograph. It'd be pretty useless to have a speed scale when you have no independent control of the second hand, unless you're on a train or something and the speed is consistent so you can wait until the second hand passes 12 o-clock... so what's that doing? None of the ST16 variants do 'stopwatch' type functions. Hmmmm.
Interesting, though as the other commenters have said, the bracelet is too shiny for me (seems to clash with what looks like a carbon fibre dial... what is it trying to be, sporty or blingy?). Still questions over the movement as well, which is interesting!
I first thought it was some mad date display - the three subdials showing day name, day number, and month number. There *also* appears to be a hole in the dial at 6 which is where you'd often put a datewheel - showing the day number - but that's already accounted for by the subdial at 6.
Then I looked again and realised that the subdial at 6 wasn't showing day number, but has a 1-24 dial and a conspicuous red arrow so is likely to be a GMT complication i.e. second time zone. The two pushers at 2 and 4 are probably (like the pushers on a JLC Reverso GMT) to quickly and easily set the second time zone, for all you first-class travelling jet-set types out there.
It must be a US market watch - the day names are in English and Sea-Gull don't market to the UK AFAIK.
It'll probably be a variant of the ST16 but I can't find a movement on their website that matches it exactly. The second time zone could be a variant of the day/night indicator found on their 'example movements' pages as that rotates once every 24 hours, but I can't find the day on left and month on right subdial.
On first glance I thought it was a chrono and would therefore have Sea-Gull's lovely ST21 'Venus' column-wheel chrono movement, but nope. It'll be an automatic though.
The 'tachymeter' print on the outside of the dial / rehaut suggests that the second hand can be independently stopped and started i.e. as per a chronograph. It'd be pretty useless to have a speed scale when you have no independent control of the second hand, unless you're on a train or something and the speed is consistent so you can wait until the second hand passes 12 o-clock... so what's that doing? None of the ST16 variants do 'stopwatch' type functions. Hmmmm.
Interesting, though as the other commenters have said, the bracelet is too shiny for me (seems to clash with what looks like a carbon fibre dial... what is it trying to be, sporty or blingy?). Still questions over the movement as well, which is interesting!
I think it's related to a very, very cheap Chinese movement. Normally, you'd have the date on the subdial at 3. I assume it's the month at 3. The dial at 6 is just the 24 hour version.
As for the tachymetre, I think it's just for show. The buttons would just change the day/date... often when you don't need to.
I had a "China Army" watch with a very similar layout.
This watch is awarded to Chinese soldiers who went beyond the call of duty on the battlefield.
The Chinese script on the back reads, "Bravery in battle."
Ok, I lied.
As for the tachymetre, I think it's just for show. The buttons would just change the day/date... often when you don't need to.
I had a "China Army" watch with a very similar layout.
This watch is awarded to Chinese soldiers who went beyond the call of duty on the battlefield.
The Chinese script on the back reads, "Bravery in battle."
Ok, I lied.
Edited by ShadownINja on Tuesday 10th November 20:23
Well the ST16 *is* cheap, I'll give you that. But the movement in your 'Made in Swiss' China Army watch (is it a fake? what the hell *is* it?) doesn't appear to be even a Sea-Gull movement.
Remember that Sea-Gull are up there at the top of Chinese movement manufacture. There are a LOAD of other factories making automatic movements - the cheaper you get, the worse they get. The 'nearly Sea-Gull' guys make copies of Swiss movements, e.g. Liaoning and their 7750 copy. Liaoning also make a tourbillon, however, their own design - which elevates them from the *real* cheapo outfits - it's not as fine as the Sea-Gull tourbillon but it's a quarter of the price (I'm getting one for Christmas... it's the movement in the BHI anniversary watch). The factories you won't ever know the names of make copies of Japanese movements, or even copies of Sea-Gull designs.
The fake world is the worst for this - with Chinese factories knocking off each other... you may know that the *cheap* ST16 Sea-Gull movement is nevertheless made by a Chinese manufacture with good reputation... but how do you know that what looks like the ST16 in your watch is actually made by Sea-Gull and not a Chinese knock-off factory copying Sea-Gull?
One would hope that Sea-Gull branded watches are in fact pretty much guaranteed to be made by Sea-Gull. But the problem is that Sea-Gull are gaining a reputation of quality of their own. They are selling watches with their own brand, and serious complications like double tourbillons too. In China, owing a decent Sea-Gull branded watch is likely to be aspirational to a lot of people. And since China is home of the counterfeiter, there must be LOADS of factories making fake Sea-Gull watches for the domestic market. As Sea-Gull climbs higher and higher in reputation, expect more fake Sea-Gulls to turn up.
This makes it pretty hard work determining whether your Chinese movement is a decent-quality Sea-Gull one, or a really shoddy copy of Sea-Gull's own work (which was almost certainly 'inspired' at least by existing Swiss movements). Especially when Sea-Gull base movements aren't particularly well finished and are sold at varying price points to whoever will buy one...
Remember that Sea-Gull are up there at the top of Chinese movement manufacture. There are a LOAD of other factories making automatic movements - the cheaper you get, the worse they get. The 'nearly Sea-Gull' guys make copies of Swiss movements, e.g. Liaoning and their 7750 copy. Liaoning also make a tourbillon, however, their own design - which elevates them from the *real* cheapo outfits - it's not as fine as the Sea-Gull tourbillon but it's a quarter of the price (I'm getting one for Christmas... it's the movement in the BHI anniversary watch). The factories you won't ever know the names of make copies of Japanese movements, or even copies of Sea-Gull designs.
The fake world is the worst for this - with Chinese factories knocking off each other... you may know that the *cheap* ST16 Sea-Gull movement is nevertheless made by a Chinese manufacture with good reputation... but how do you know that what looks like the ST16 in your watch is actually made by Sea-Gull and not a Chinese knock-off factory copying Sea-Gull?
One would hope that Sea-Gull branded watches are in fact pretty much guaranteed to be made by Sea-Gull. But the problem is that Sea-Gull are gaining a reputation of quality of their own. They are selling watches with their own brand, and serious complications like double tourbillons too. In China, owing a decent Sea-Gull branded watch is likely to be aspirational to a lot of people. And since China is home of the counterfeiter, there must be LOADS of factories making fake Sea-Gull watches for the domestic market. As Sea-Gull climbs higher and higher in reputation, expect more fake Sea-Gulls to turn up.
This makes it pretty hard work determining whether your Chinese movement is a decent-quality Sea-Gull one, or a really shoddy copy of Sea-Gull's own work (which was almost certainly 'inspired' at least by existing Swiss movements). Especially when Sea-Gull base movements aren't particularly well finished and are sold at varying price points to whoever will buy one...
Indeed!
I don't know what the movement is but it gets everywhere as you can see. The watch does feel heavy (as if that's a mark of good quality
) and the time and date adjust with suitable "assuredness". However, you can pick them up for around £20 max.I see you noticed the "Made in Swiss" writing. It always amuses me to read that.
Edited by ShadownINja on Tuesday 10th November 21:26
Sea Gull aren't quite there yet though, I was all set for this :
until someone pointed out this :
I follow the 'Affordables' on a few other forums, and never quite understood the Americans love for Alpha watches, then I saw the new Carbon and fell in love .... for 5 seconds until I had a proper look at the sub dials.
Yep, that's the YEAR at 9 o'clock.
until someone pointed out this :
I follow the 'Affordables' on a few other forums, and never quite understood the Americans love for Alpha watches, then I saw the new Carbon and fell in love .... for 5 seconds until I had a proper look at the sub dials.
Yep, that's the YEAR at 9 o'clock.
On the face of it (see what I did there ?).
I really am no good at this spotting 'homages' lark, (OK, so I did intentionally but an 'Italian Navy' type sterile dial job)
I've been hearing people raving about Parnis bang-for-buck-ability, so I bought one of these for 20 quid :
(No, that's not my fingernail) I thought it was a bargain, until I looked at the crown and saw a familiar looking 'B'.
Quick Google :
Arse.
I really am no good at this spotting 'homages' lark, (OK, so I did intentionally but an 'Italian Navy' type sterile dial job)
I've been hearing people raving about Parnis bang-for-buck-ability, so I bought one of these for 20 quid :
(No, that's not my fingernail) I thought it was a bargain, until I looked at the crown and saw a familiar looking 'B'.
Quick Google :
Arse.
I do !, Breitlings have never been my thing though.
I just discovered the sales bit on WUS though, there's some bargains on there, even more so if you can convince the septics to post to countries that *aren't* America.
Parents are bringing over a G Shock for a belated birthday present in a couple of days and I have a rather dodgy looking Parnis 'Daytona' coming in. I have to stop buying 'affordables' and concentrate on a decent keeper. I'd love a Speedmaster but can't relax unless I have a new watch every other week.
I might get one of these next though as a go-between :
Seiko 7A38, whack that on a Nato and I'll be like some kind of Japanese James Bond on the moon.
I just discovered the sales bit on WUS though, there's some bargains on there, even more so if you can convince the septics to post to countries that *aren't* America.
Parents are bringing over a G Shock for a belated birthday present in a couple of days and I have a rather dodgy looking Parnis 'Daytona' coming in. I have to stop buying 'affordables' and concentrate on a decent keeper. I'd love a Speedmaster but can't relax unless I have a new watch every other week.
I might get one of these next though as a go-between :
Seiko 7A38, whack that on a Nato and I'll be like some kind of Japanese James Bond on the moon.
sneijder said:
I have to hold my hand up and admit Breitling aren't my thing and I never pay any attention to fussy faced watches, so this one passed me by.
As I type this, I have just realised this advert :
Is in every magazine I pick up, and I still hadn't twigged.
I don't like Breitling much either. And this shows that they financially support the Church of Scientology. Another black mark in my book As I type this, I have just realised this advert :
Is in every magazine I pick up, and I still hadn't twigged.
sneijder said:
I have to hold my hand up and admit Breitling aren't my thing and I never pay any attention to fussy faced watches, so this one passed me by.
Well, you know what an S Class looks like even if you prefer an F430... anyway, I don't really have an interest in Breitlings either but I recognise the different models. Same goes for Rolex. TBH I have nfi what high end watch I want.cyberface said:
Very interesting stuff!
Thanks for the info. Always enjoy reading your watch posts. I'll bump this when it arrives. I believe it was sent yesterday so hopefully it will dock at Chez Dog tomorrow.
ETA: Just remembered this:
The seller's shot of the movement.
Edited by Nolar Dog on Wednesday 11th November 10:28
Nolar Dog said:
cyberface said:
Very interesting stuff!
Thanks for the info. Always enjoy reading your watch posts. I'll bump this when it arrives. I believe it was sent yesterday so hopefully it will dock at Chez Dog tomorrow.
ETA: Just remembered this:
The seller's shot of the movement.
Edited by Nolar Dog on Wednesday 11th November 10:28
However, I'll be happy to be proved wrong, and definitely interested to hear your thoughts when you get it. I had a Sea Gull Chinese Air Force re-issue and they are certainly fantastic VFM.
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