S3 stage 1 remap - advice welcomed

[MG123]

Hi.

I recently bought an '53 plate S3. Love it and although I didn't think I would, I am considering just the stage 1 remap that I believe adds around 40bhp and 50lbs/ft.

This would be my first remap so any advice regarding the following would be massively appreciated:

- Recommended suppliers
- Not recommended suppiers (personal message me if needs to stay within forum rules)
- Comments on fuel consumption
- Comments on excessive component stress/wear
- I'm not into loud exhausts, will I need a mod to keep it quiet?
- Recommend brakes upgrade

Thanks in advance.

Max

[Cupramax]

Hi, the S3 will remap nicely. I'd recommend Revo having used them for my old Leon Cupra R (same engine as the S3). other good companies are AmD, APR and APS.

As for your other questions, if you boot it it'll use more fuel, if you drive gently the consumption may be very slightly better, the standard diverter valve (N75) will probably need replacing, the factory one is fine but just make sure its the latest revision, available from your dealer. Dont listen to tuner who say you'll need a forge one or other make, its not absolutely necessary. DO NOT get a vent to atmosphere dump valve (PPPPTTTTIIIIIIIIIISSSHHHH noise type) either, it will reduce the cars performance. If you're not changing the exhaust it wont be any noisier.

[Cupramax]

Oh, and the brakes are definitely a weak point on the old shape S3, Brembo do a good upgrade, available at AmD http://www.amdtechnik.com/product.details.cfm?Prod...

[Greendubber]

As well as Revo have a look at Custom Code, they're quite highly regarded as well.

As for other mods, the standard ones for when you have a remap are a green cotton panel filter and a Forge 007 DV. You can of course carry on as standard but a decent filter and replacing the stock DV is worth it.

As for brakes, no need to go mad...just use OEM disks with decent pads.

Exhaust wont matter as a remap wont make it louder.

[Matt_N]

Cupramax said:

Hi, the S3 will remap nicely. I'd recommend Revo having used them for my old Leon Cupra R (same engine as the S3). other good companies are AmD, APR and APS.

As for your other questions, if you boot it it'll use more fuel, if you drive gently the consumption may be very slightly better, the standard diverter valve (N75) will probably need replacing, the factory one is fine but just make sure its the latest revision, available from your dealer. Dont listen to tuner who say you'll need a forge one or other make, its not absolutely necessary. DO NOT get a vent to atmosphere dump valve (PPPPTTTTIIIIIIIIIISSSHHHH noise type) either, it will reduce the cars performance. If you're not changing the exhaust it wont be any noisier.

The diverter valve is not the N75.

The N75 is the boost control valve, there are a few different versions of it - C, J and a few others, some say they make a difference some say they dont.

In regards to the diverter valve, I would recommend a Forge one everytime, they cost twice as much as an OEM one, but are much less prone to failure. Forge 007 does the job nicely.

[MG123]

Thanks all, really appreciated and will speak to those suppliers recommended. Think I'll pass on the DV...

Cheers
Max

[Jimbomofo]

As above really, all the above company all come highly recommended! I've recently had a AMD remap done on my Cupra R (same engine as yours) and im very happy with the results.

It made 260BHP and 290lb/ft, thats with no other modification. When i was deciding which one to choice i narrowed it down the Revo and AMD, i went for the AMD remap as it's the smoother of the two maps... it was hard decision to make, it was very close!
From speak to other people and studying dyno graphs (yeah i know i sad lol) this is MY understanding of the difference between the two:

Revo
- the torques kicks in early 2.5k
- it is quite aggressive in its delivery
- VERY strong mid range punch
- tails off earlier that the AMD

one thing worth noting about the Revo is you can have 5 hr free trial, although its not the full map (approx 80%). Also have a look on the website for dyno graphs.

AMD
- Very smooth power delivery
- More top end zing that the Revo (pulls all the way to 6.5K)

At the end of the day you will be happy with any of the above referenced tuners, keep us up todate!

Edited by Jimbomofo on Thursday 12th November 20:28

[Colonial]

I have spent a lot of money on a number of different options for my MY01 S3.

The stand VAG Diverter Valve is a waste of time. It is very poor design and will generally fail soon after an upgrade (generally speaking). I had stock, then a Forge 007 but have since upgrade to an APR R1 which is easily the best available to my mind.

An N75J is also a valuable upgrade. Gives a more aggressive delivery than the standard (H I think) and is a standard Audi part so no real concerns with it.

Once you start chipping you will find the induction hose may start having issues (common issue). I upgraded mine to Forge Silicon hoses. I upgraded the intercooler hoses at the same time, but I don’t see the point really.

I run a BMC CDA (Carbon Dynamic Airbox) and although expensive it does make the car breath a lot free-er. Plus a nice, subtle induction noise.

I would also consider the following mods –
3’ dump pipe (must have imo)
Decent exhaust (I have a custom stainless into a remus)
Haldex controller.

Brakes – I use DBA which is an Australian company that make very good kit. Decent set of pads (I use Ferodo DS after an abysmal EBC experience) and that will be fine. No point going a big brake kit as you will have to get larger wheels as wheel.

Suspension. Upgrade the bushes. They are crap. I am currently running Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks but considering coilovers.

Remaps – Revo (which is essentially APR software) is good. A number of people I know have gone GIAC as well. Personally I’m running Revo Stage 1, but about to go a custom Unitronic tune as I am running cams and about to go a bigger Garrett turbo and a stealth Front Mount Intercooler as I have found that the standard Side Mounts just aren’t coping.

[MintyChris]

The N75J valve can cause boost spikes which may put the car into limp mode. Its hit an miss but I prefer to keep standard. Boost spikes are what cause bent rods on the 1.8 20v.

[S3 Nattie]

I agree with what Chris says. Leave the standard N75 valve in as the J valve will boost spike higher and may send you into limp mode. I recommend the J valve if you was having a custom map.With regards to a stage 1 I would 100% recommend a Forge DV. The standard items will have a hard time holding boost as it has a rubber diaphragm , Forge uses a metal piston.Get yourself a Forge DV and uprated filter, green cotton very popular and thats all you need for stage 1.Common problems after maps are, DV failing, Coil packs and TIP collapsing so bear in mind they may go once mapped.

[Greendubber]

S3 Nattie said:

I agree with what Chris says. Leave the standard N75 valve in as the J valve will boost spike higher and may send you into limp mode. I recommend the J valve if you was having a custom map.

With regards to a stage 1 I would 100% recommend a Forge DV. The standard items will have a hard time holding boost as it has a rubber diaphragm , Forge uses a metal piston.

Get yourself a Forge DV and uprated filter, green cotton very popular and thats all you need for stage 1.

Common problems after maps are, DV failing, Coil packs and TIP collapsing so bear in mind they may go once mapped.

As well as above it would be worth giving your thottle body a clean out too. When my car was mapped it had a really erratic idle, the throttle body was coked up and the remap highlighted it. Quick 10 minutes spent cleaning it out had it sorted.