More flash tips (please...)
Discussion
Right I am now the proud custodian of the company flash unit, a Canon Speedlite 270. And in about 24 hours I have to use it in anger.
I firmly intend to learn everything required to become a technically competent amateur snapper at some stage, but for the moment please assume I'm a complete moron...
So, with that in mind, any basic tips for photgraphing small groups of people under normal indoor lighting? I have a 400D with the standard kit lense - which of the auto settings is likely to work best, for example? The furthest I'll go is one of the single-variation modes, not full manual. What flash position is likely to work best?
Any tips much appreciated.
CP
I firmly intend to learn everything required to become a technically competent amateur snapper at some stage, but for the moment please assume I'm a complete moron...
So, with that in mind, any basic tips for photgraphing small groups of people under normal indoor lighting? I have a 400D with the standard kit lense - which of the auto settings is likely to work best, for example? The furthest I'll go is one of the single-variation modes, not full manual. What flash position is likely to work best?
Any tips much appreciated.
CP
For a Canon 400d you've really 3 options if you're just beginning, and unfortunately the most popular mode for shooting (Av) doesn't really work with a flash on shoe.
1) Put it in full auto, let the camera sort out everything.
2) Put it in portrait mode, let the camera sort out everything while giving pleasing background blur
3) Use shutter priority (pointless)
4) Use full manual.
I realise I said 3 options and listed 4, but full manual isn't as scary as you might think if shooting primarily with a flash indoors. Make sure the flash is in TTL mode, set your shutter speed to max sync speed (1/200th on the 400d) and aim the head towards a wall or ceiling. Now you can effectively use the camera like it's in Av, and the flash will try and expose the people you're shooting correctly! You can set the flash Ev from one of the submenus (settings 2 i think) in 1/3 stop increments.
If you try to shoot in Av with a flash, the camera will try and expose for the whole scene and use the flash as fill, meaning in a dark room you'll get a really long shutter time and loads of blur.
If your flash doesn't work with TTL, then you'll have to manual everything. Again, set to max sync speed, find the aperture you're happy with then play with the flash power (while chimping) to expose the subjects correctly.
Simples. The golden rule for the hotshoe flash is never point the head at your subject, always bounce off a wall / ceiling where possible
1) Put it in full auto, let the camera sort out everything.
2) Put it in portrait mode, let the camera sort out everything while giving pleasing background blur
3) Use shutter priority (pointless)
4) Use full manual.
I realise I said 3 options and listed 4, but full manual isn't as scary as you might think if shooting primarily with a flash indoors. Make sure the flash is in TTL mode, set your shutter speed to max sync speed (1/200th on the 400d) and aim the head towards a wall or ceiling. Now you can effectively use the camera like it's in Av, and the flash will try and expose the people you're shooting correctly! You can set the flash Ev from one of the submenus (settings 2 i think) in 1/3 stop increments.
If you try to shoot in Av with a flash, the camera will try and expose for the whole scene and use the flash as fill, meaning in a dark room you'll get a really long shutter time and loads of blur.
If your flash doesn't work with TTL, then you'll have to manual everything. Again, set to max sync speed, find the aperture you're happy with then play with the flash power (while chimping) to expose the subjects correctly.
Simples. The golden rule for the hotshoe flash is never point the head at your subject, always bounce off a wall / ceiling where possible
jon- said:
Simples. The golden rule for the hotshoe flash is never point the head at your subject, always bounce off a wall / ceiling where possible
If not posible to bounce it off a light wall or ceiling use the diffuser if you have one that came with it.Be sure you have plenty of battery capacity available - bounce flash can use it up quickly (more work to do to light the scene) and recycle times can be slowed dramatically if lighting a large area over a long distance. People in groups may not retain patience ...
jon- said:
Loads of good stuff
Thanks! Will give that lot a go.It was a late one last night, so I didn't have time to check the thread before I headed home. However, I did have a quick play with the flash on my own and sure enough it seems that simply aiming the flash unit away from the subject works beautifully. I thought there'd be something of an art to it (and I'm sure there is to do it well...) but simply pointing about 45 degrees upwards and shooting on portrait mode seemed to be an order of magnitude better than the onboard flash. Quite chuffed.
Sure it'll go tits up tomorrow night, but at least I have a vague idea now.
Chris71 said:
.. but simply pointing about 45 degrees upwards and shooting on portrait mode seemed to be an order of magnitude better than the onboard flash. Quite chuffed.
Don't forget too (even though it sounds counter-intuitive), that great effects can be had by pointing the flash away from the subject(s). Point it diagonally upwards over your right or left shoulder, to achieve oblique lighting off the walls/ceiling. Pointing upwards and towards the subject does work well but can sometime produce a "panda eyes" effect because the eyes are shielded by the brow area.Once you've mastered all this, start reading up about off-camera flash!
Ed_P said:
Chris71 said:
.. but simply pointing about 45 degrees upwards and shooting on portrait mode seemed to be an order of magnitude better than the onboard flash. Quite chuffed.
Don't forget too (even though it sounds counter-intuitive), that great effects can be had by pointing the flash away from the subject(s). Point it diagonally upwards over your right or left shoulder, to achieve oblique lighting off the walls/ceiling. Pointing upwards and towards the subject does work well but can sometime produce a "panda eyes" effect because the eyes are shielded by the brow area.Once you've mastered all this, start reading up about off-camera flash!
jon- said:
Ed_P said:
Chris71 said:
.. but simply pointing about 45 degrees upwards and shooting on portrait mode seemed to be an order of magnitude better than the onboard flash. Quite chuffed.
Don't forget too (even though it sounds counter-intuitive), that great effects can be had by pointing the flash away from the subject(s). Point it diagonally upwards over your right or left shoulder, to achieve oblique lighting off the walls/ceiling. Pointing upwards and towards the subject does work well but can sometime produce a "panda eyes" effect because the eyes are shielded by the brow area.Once you've mastered all this, start reading up about off-camera flash!
jon- said:
My only concern for that is the limited power from the 270ex. It's range guide is only 27, so it's only just over half as powerful as the 430.
That was in the back of my mind.The sort of close-ish individual or small group shots should be sorted I reckon (by my meagre standards!) What should I do for larger areas? I've only got the standard lens, so won't be doing any long range stuff unless it's wide area (maybe looking down on the room if there's a balcony or something, that sort of thing...)
Up the ISO? Point the flash more directly forwards? Pray?
Chris71 said:
Up the ISO? Point the flash more directly forwards? Pray?
If you're at maximum aperture and maximum acceptable ISO, then you have no choice but to point it straight forwards and blast it. The results don't look so nice but if it's that or nothing, at least you have something.Shoot RAW if you can which will give you extra latitude when sorting out the results later.
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