Sub floor required for kitchen tiles
Discussion
The kitchen floor's currently 120 year old floorboards which have never been sanded or indeed touched, so an interesting range of shapes!
I'd be happy to lay 18mm ply, but don't want too big a ridge where I meet the next room (which is carpetted) and am considering one of the various "tile onto wood" adhesives that are out there. Has anyone tried these andgot an feedback on whether they're effective or just a gimmick?
I'd be happy to lay 18mm ply, but don't want too big a ridge where I meet the next room (which is carpetted) and am considering one of the various "tile onto wood" adhesives that are out there. Has anyone tried these andgot an feedback on whether they're effective or just a gimmick?
Used it in my shower room. Most of the tiles are now cracked despite me making sure I put down an even coverage and the grout has all but gone between the tiles. Seems the adhesive is very sponge like and depresses as you stand on it hence the grout coming away and the tiles cracking. Will be riping it up soon and replacing it with Amtico - brilliant stuff unlike the tile adhesive.
If taking up the floorboards and replacing with T+G chip board flooring is not an option, I would Screw down the existing floor boards. Then I would lay 5mm ply and screw that down to give you a flat surface. Now your good to go ahead and tile the floor, using a flexible adhesive suitable for timber floors. Hope this helps. Roy.
Illustrious_Lou said:
Used it in my shower room. Most of the tiles are now cracked despite me making sure I put down an even coverage and the grout has all but gone between the tiles. Seems the adhesive is very sponge like and depresses as you stand on it hence the grout coming away and the tiles cracking. Will be riping it up soon and replacing it with Amtico - brilliant stuff unlike the tile adhesive.
This is exactly what my builder said would happen and despite my insistance that we have natural tiles we're having amtico 
ACEparts_com said:
Illustrious_Lou said:
Used it in my shower room. Most of the tiles are now cracked despite me making sure I put down an even coverage and the grout has all but gone between the tiles. Seems the adhesive is very sponge like and depresses as you stand on it hence the grout coming away and the tiles cracking. Will be riping it up soon and replacing it with Amtico - brilliant stuff unlike the tile adhesive.
This is exactly what my builder said would happen and despite my insistance that we have natural tiles we're having amtico Bugger to cut though unless you gently warm it on the reverse
I have the Amtico Spacia range of tiles in my kitchen they are still vinyl like normal Amtico but you grout it like normal tiles so it still has the desired look.
They are amazing so much better than tiles, they are warm, stuff doesnt break as easily when dropped and no chance the tiles will break if anything heavy is dropped on them!
I plan on doing my whole house in the stuff as money allows!
They are amazing so much better than tiles, they are warm, stuff doesnt break as easily when dropped and no chance the tiles will break if anything heavy is dropped on them!
I plan on doing my whole house in the stuff as money allows!
Hiya all,
Just thought I'd stick in my tuppence. Whilst I'm back in the motor trade for a while whilst my shoulders get better from injuries this year, tile failure was something that I was specialising in. The unfortunate truth is that it doesn't matter how well the tiles are fixed or even if you use the correct adhesives for the job, if the sub floor hasn't been prepared correctly then sooner or later the tiles will fail. The enemies of tiles particularly on wooded floors are deflection, expansion and the lack of support. To give you an example of this problem, here is a job I completed just before accident.
Pic 1
Tiles have blown in various spots and some tiles have a crack running through them.
Pic 2
lifting the tiles and ply, it is clear that the joists weren't battened out to give support over the entire floor area and the perimeter of the room. Even worse the underfloor heating is sub floor hot water piped being totally unsuitable with the floor as it is. Also where the wooden floor meets the concrete slab, there is no expansion joint with tiles layed over the joint.
Pic 3
correct noggins put in with full perimeter support
Pic 4
Tiles fixed again using correct polymer modified adhesive for use on wooden floors and with under floor heating. You can't see the expansion joint between the wooden floor and the slab but it is between what is now the half tile where the previous tile has cracked. it isn't noticeable but guarantees the tiles won't pop again across two different substrates...and finally skirting back on, repainted and job done!
Any decent tiler would have done the same and from my point of view, there is no reason that the tiles shouldn't last a very long time. My tiling adventures are normally kept to a different forum but it really does bug me hearing about shoddy tiling work-it just isn't on and generally a failure of the guy who did it originally
AND.......Just for a balance...this is me in the R8 I was driving!....it is a motoring forum after all!
Ed
Ps...I will be back working in the new year when my shoulders are better
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/E3Trj84a.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/v/GQxos71h.jpg" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/GQxos71h.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/v/TRNwNi1N.jpg" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/TRNwNi1N.jpg[/img]</a>[img]http://thumbsnap.com/i/E3Trj84a.jpg[/img][img]http://thumbsnap.com/i/GQxos71h.jpg[/img][img]http://thumbsnap.com/i/SJSdY0Zj.jpg[/img][img]http://thumbsnap.com/i/3ORxFuMS.jpg[/img][img]http://thumbsnap.com/i/TRNwNi1N.jpg)
Just thought I'd stick in my tuppence. Whilst I'm back in the motor trade for a while whilst my shoulders get better from injuries this year, tile failure was something that I was specialising in. The unfortunate truth is that it doesn't matter how well the tiles are fixed or even if you use the correct adhesives for the job, if the sub floor hasn't been prepared correctly then sooner or later the tiles will fail. The enemies of tiles particularly on wooded floors are deflection, expansion and the lack of support. To give you an example of this problem, here is a job I completed just before accident.
Pic 1
Tiles have blown in various spots and some tiles have a crack running through them.
Pic 2
lifting the tiles and ply, it is clear that the joists weren't battened out to give support over the entire floor area and the perimeter of the room. Even worse the underfloor heating is sub floor hot water piped being totally unsuitable with the floor as it is. Also where the wooden floor meets the concrete slab, there is no expansion joint with tiles layed over the joint.
Pic 3
correct noggins put in with full perimeter support
Pic 4
Tiles fixed again using correct polymer modified adhesive for use on wooden floors and with under floor heating. You can't see the expansion joint between the wooden floor and the slab but it is between what is now the half tile where the previous tile has cracked. it isn't noticeable but guarantees the tiles won't pop again across two different substrates...and finally skirting back on, repainted and job done!
Any decent tiler would have done the same and from my point of view, there is no reason that the tiles shouldn't last a very long time. My tiling adventures are normally kept to a different forum but it really does bug me hearing about shoddy tiling work-it just isn't on and generally a failure of the guy who did it originally
AND.......Just for a balance...this is me in the R8 I was driving!....it is a motoring forum after all!
Ed
Ps...I will be back working in the new year when my shoulders are better
Edited by TVR1 on Wednesday 9th December 20:27
TVR1 said:
Hiya all,
Just thought I'd stick in my tuppence. Whilst I'm back in the motor trade for a while whilst my shoulders get better from injuries this year, tile failure was something that I was specialising in. The unfortunate truth is that it doesn't matter how well the tiles are fixed or even if you use the correct adhesives for the job, if the sub floor hasn't been prepared correctly then sooner or later the tiles will fail. The enemies of tiles particularly on wooded floors are deflection, expansion and the lack of support. To give you an example of this problem, here is a job I completed just before accident.
Pic 1
Tiles have blown in various spots and some tiles have a crack running through them.
Pic 2
lifting the tiles and ply, it is clear that the joists weren't battened out to give support over the entire floor area and the perimeter of the room. Even worse the underfloor heating is sub floor hot water piped being totally unsuitable with the floor as it is. Also where the wooden floor meets the concrete slab, there is no expansion joint with tiles layed over the joint.
Pic 3
correct noggins put in with full perimeter support
Pic 4
Tiles fixed again using correct polymer modified adhesive for use on wooden floors and with under floor heating. You can't see the expansion joint between the wooden floor and the slab but it is between what is now the half tile where the previous tile has cracked. it isn't noticeable but guarantees the tiles won't pop again across two different substrates...and finally skirting back on, repainted and job done!
Any decent tiler would have done the same and from my point of view, there is no reason that the tiles shouldn't last a very long time. My tiling adventures are normally kept to a different forum but it really does bug me hearing about shoddy tiling work-it just isn't on and generally a failure of the guy who did it originally
AND.......Just for a balance...this is me in the R8 I was driving!....it is a motoring forum after all!
Ed
Ps...I will be back working in the new year when my shoulders are better
Just thought I'd stick in my tuppence. Whilst I'm back in the motor trade for a while whilst my shoulders get better from injuries this year, tile failure was something that I was specialising in. The unfortunate truth is that it doesn't matter how well the tiles are fixed or even if you use the correct adhesives for the job, if the sub floor hasn't been prepared correctly then sooner or later the tiles will fail. The enemies of tiles particularly on wooded floors are deflection, expansion and the lack of support. To give you an example of this problem, here is a job I completed just before accident.
Pic 1
Tiles have blown in various spots and some tiles have a crack running through them.
Pic 2
lifting the tiles and ply, it is clear that the joists weren't battened out to give support over the entire floor area and the perimeter of the room. Even worse the underfloor heating is sub floor hot water piped being totally unsuitable with the floor as it is. Also where the wooden floor meets the concrete slab, there is no expansion joint with tiles layed over the joint.
Pic 3
correct noggins put in with full perimeter support
Pic 4
Tiles fixed again using correct polymer modified adhesive for use on wooden floors and with under floor heating. You can't see the expansion joint between the wooden floor and the slab but it is between what is now the half tile where the previous tile has cracked. it isn't noticeable but guarantees the tiles won't pop again across two different substrates...and finally skirting back on, repainted and job done!
Any decent tiler would have done the same and from my point of view, there is no reason that the tiles shouldn't last a very long time. My tiling adventures are normally kept to a different forum but it really does bug me hearing about shoddy tiling work-it just isn't on and generally a failure of the guy who did it originally
AND.......Just for a balance...this is me in the R8 I was driving!....it is a motoring forum after all!
Ed
Ps...I will be back working in the new year when my shoulders are better
Edited by TVR1 on Wednesday 9th December 20:27
Illustrious_Lou said:
I put Amtico down in my Kitchen/Dining room 5 years ago and it still looks like new. I've got the Burnt Oak I think, it's a burnt something or other... Anyway people are convinced it is real wood and it is not until they touch it they realise it is not. It is so versatile and even thought it costs a bomb I think it is well worth it in the long run.
That stuff looks nice.When you 'a bomb', how much does it typically cost?
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