Candles in the Wind
Discussion
That's four candles headlights...positively US they are too
Now that the dark evenings are here taking the Wedge out is a liability to me and other road users, not only is it difficult to see where I've pointed the car to go but I also worry about others being unable to see me approaching forwards or backwards as I'm not too sure myself which way is what
I've done the usual search thingy but to no avail...
So can you chaps help me out and suggest a
for more fork handles 
Thanks J
Now that the dark evenings are here taking the Wedge out is a liability to me and other road users, not only is it difficult to see where I've pointed the car to go but I also worry about others being unable to see me approaching forwards or backwards as I'm not too sure myself which way is what
I've done the usual search thingy but to no avail...
So can you chaps help me out and suggest a
for more fork handles Thanks J
First thing to check is whether the silvering inside the lens is all tarnished and brown. If it is then it'll absorb most of the light. If so time to get new lenses.
Then check the connections to the bulbs, and the wiring, earths too, make sure you are getting full +12V at the bulbs or they'll be dim.
Also you could try driving with the driving lights on too, some wedges allow them to be on independently. If pointing the right direction they are a help.
Lastly, wait till it's a full moon!
Then check the connections to the bulbs, and the wiring, earths too, make sure you are getting full +12V at the bulbs or they'll be dim.
Also you could try driving with the driving lights on too, some wedges allow them to be on independently. If pointing the right direction they are a help.
Lastly, wait till it's a full moon!
I wonder if something like this Hella lamp could be fitted in the lamp pod.
These look good value, I think you'll want the H4 bulb ones. Don't worry if there's no sidelight bulb in the lens, they aren't necessary.
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/wipac-quadoptic.html
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/wipac-quadoptic.html
I've been down this avenue with my other car.
it's worth tracking down a decent brand such as Hella rather than a Heinz 57 as the lens and or reflector is sometimes of better quality.
I wanted to minimise the onset of rust and or water ingress so went for one without a sidelight!
Anyone running HID's?
Phil
420 SEAC
it's worth tracking down a decent brand such as Hella rather than a Heinz 57 as the lens and or reflector is sometimes of better quality.
I wanted to minimise the onset of rust and or water ingress so went for one without a sidelight!
Anyone running HID's?
Phil
420 SEAC
I have HIDs on the bike and the difference was... er... night and day 
The initial startup spike draws a fair bit more current than a standard H4 but it's only for a couple of seconds so not usually an issue. Once running a typical HID draws 50% of the current required by halogen... so there's a reduced load on the alternator, theoretically freeing-up a few gee-gees OK, so they take a few seconds to come up to full brightness but that's when you're warming the engine up anyway... aren't you?
If you trace the route taken by the lighting current on a Wedge it's fairly tortuous and leads to a substantial voltage drop by the time it gets to the lights. Typically the juice has to get across the car from the battery to the relay board, pass through a couple of relays before meandering its way down to the front of the car. As if that weren't bad enough there are a few 20-year-old connectors en route that have lived in the best of British weather, unseen by man. No wonder there's little but a dim glimmer from the pods!
My solution was to make a new 'mini-loom' dedicated to the headlamps. It connects directly to the battery, is wired in heavy-gauge cable and takes the shortest practicable route to the headlamps - there's just one piece of wire from the new relay straight to the bulb terminal.
Coupled with some new 7" headlamps from Vehicle Wiring Products and I'm no longer afraid to put my foot down after dark.
No changes were made to the car's existing wiring, the new circuitry is protected by its own fuses and an unexpected side-effect is that I can play the stereo at higher volumes as it no longer cuts out due to the voltage drop caused by the headlamps!
The initial startup spike draws a fair bit more current than a standard H4 but it's only for a couple of seconds so not usually an issue. Once running a typical HID draws 50% of the current required by halogen... so there's a reduced load on the alternator, theoretically freeing-up a few gee-gees
OK, so they take a few seconds to come up to full brightness but that's when you're warming the engine up anyway... aren't you? If you trace the route taken by the lighting current on a Wedge it's fairly tortuous and leads to a substantial voltage drop by the time it gets to the lights. Typically the juice has to get across the car from the battery to the relay board, pass through a couple of relays before meandering its way down to the front of the car. As if that weren't bad enough there are a few 20-year-old connectors en route that have lived in the best of British weather, unseen by man. No wonder there's little but a dim glimmer from the pods!
My solution was to make a new 'mini-loom' dedicated to the headlamps. It connects directly to the battery, is wired in heavy-gauge cable and takes the shortest practicable route to the headlamps - there's just one piece of wire from the new relay straight to the bulb terminal.
Coupled with some new 7" headlamps from Vehicle Wiring Products and I'm no longer afraid to put my foot down after dark.
No changes were made to the car's existing wiring, the new circuitry is protected by its own fuses and an unexpected side-effect is that I can play the stereo at higher volumes as it no longer cuts out due to the voltage drop caused by the headlamps!
Wedg1e said:
My solution was to make a new 'mini-loom' dedicated to the headlamps.
I did something similar for a friends Moto-Guzzi when she swapped to a twin headlamp fairing. Designing the circuit so that the switchgear only handled the current to power up relays rather than the headlamp made a big difference to the voltage seen across the lamps.On that point you might want to check that J.
d to fit though. you looking at about 2-3 days labour.Jack Valiant said:
On the subject of lights where is the best place to get a replacement Cibie Airport glass from for the 350's driving lights? Don't suggest EBay as I have been ripped off on there so will not buy anything from it 
Thanks
Chris
Well Ebay is only an auction site; you don't buy from IT, you buy from Joe Public (or Jim Dealer) who uses it to sell. One rotten apple does not a whole spoiled barrel make. I've had a few questionable deals over the years, goods that never appeared etc. but by and large almost a decade without problems. I've also sold plenty of stuff without quibble, so it does work... rather like an internet dating site, it just gets you together with the other party! Thanks
Chris
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