Plasterboard fixings...
Discussion
I'm trying to put a couple of brass coathook rails up on a plasterboard wall and it's not going so well 
Normal rawlplugs were no good obviously. The plastic spiral plasterboard fixings would have been OK, but because the backing plate for the coathooks is hollow, as you tighten the screw it pulls the fixing out of the wall before you've got the hooks properly flush. And because it's new plaster it's pulled off some of the skimming surrounding the holes!
Any suggestions on what I should use? I was thinking of those expanding ones that spring out when they reach the other side of the plasterboard...
Normal rawlplugs were no good obviously. The plastic spiral plasterboard fixings would have been OK, but because the backing plate for the coathooks is hollow, as you tighten the screw it pulls the fixing out of the wall before you've got the hooks properly flush. And because it's new plaster it's pulled off some of the skimming surrounding the holes!Any suggestions on what I should use? I was thinking of those expanding ones that spring out when they reach the other side of the plasterboard...
I like these
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/33559/Fixings/Cavity...
You need to check the thickness of whatever you are fixing and the plasterboard - I countersink the screw heads in the thing being fixed. These also work in insulation backed plasterboard.
I always find the screw in things just leave me with a big hole in my plasterboard.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/33559/Fixings/Cavity...
You need to check the thickness of whatever you are fixing and the plasterboard - I countersink the screw heads in the thing being fixed. These also work in insulation backed plasterboard.
I always find the screw in things just leave me with a big hole in my plasterboard.
We use the metal ones (as shown by TheEnd ) all the time and never had a problem.
Drill a 5.5mm hole first then screw them in. The board won't break up and you'll get a tight solid fit. If there is block work directly behing the board, carry on drilling into the block. This should then allow the fixing to screw straight in and not pull the board apart.
If there is dab behind the board then your best off using Plugs. When you screw in the fixings it will pull all the board apart.
Have found the plastic ones to be useless.
Drill a 5.5mm hole first then screw them in. The board won't break up and you'll get a tight solid fit. If there is block work directly behing the board, carry on drilling into the block. This should then allow the fixing to screw straight in and not pull the board apart.
If there is dab behind the board then your best off using Plugs. When you screw in the fixings it will pull all the board apart.Have found the plastic ones to be useless.
Edited by Westy Pre-Lit on Saturday 28th November 20:57
NiceCupOfTea said:
I'm trying to put a couple of brass coathook rails up on a plasterboard wall and it's not going so well Normal rawlplugs were no good obviously. The plastic spiral plasterboard fixings would have been OK, but because the backing plate for the coathooks is hollow, as you tighten the screw it pulls the fixing out of the wall before you've got the hooks properly flush. And because it's new plaster it's pulled off some of the skimming surrounding the holes!
Any suggestions on what I should use? I was thinking of those expanding ones that spring out when they reach the other side of the plasterboard...
Mounting coat hooks directly to plasterboard is asking for trouble IMHO. This is how I did it: Normal rawlplugs were no good obviously. The plastic spiral plasterboard fixings would have been OK, but because the backing plate for the coathooks is hollow, as you tighten the screw it pulls the fixing out of the wall before you've got the hooks properly flush. And because it's new plaster it's pulled off some of the skimming surrounding the holes!Any suggestions on what I should use? I was thinking of those expanding ones that spring out when they reach the other side of the plasterboard...
Go to http://www.firns.co.uk/ and order some sticks of cut-to-length wall plug (which comes in about 1' lenghts:
BST0023 Bostik Viking Wall Plugs BLUE £0.55
and also get some LONG screws.
Drill stright through the plaster, through the air gap (if there is one) and into (hopefully) the solid blockwork behind for at least 2". You might need to go a total depth of 4" or 6" or whatever. Cut the appropriate length of the above plug stick and smack it into the hole. Make sure beforehand it's a tight fit. Screw a 3/4" thick wooden backing plate to the wall (to spread the compression loads) using at least 2 of the long screws coated in Vaseline (this will reduce friction and prevent them from snapping while you're tightening them. Screw the brass coat hooks to this backing plate using normal 3/4" long wood screws.
I guarantee that no matter how many coats you put on that hook - it wont pull out!
Job done.
grumbas said:
TheEnd said:
tried these?
Tip though, don't shove them into the wall upto the thread then twist - it'll take chunks of plaster out. Work them in slowly as if the thread was up the whole length.
I'd definately put the hooks on a batten of some sort then fix that with a DECENT building adhesive and expanding toggles. We hang radiators on them and they always stay (unless a moron actually climbs on them ). Those coarse thread things are OK for light weight, but they have too little surface area in contact with anything substantial.
). Those coarse thread things are OK for light weight, but they have too little surface area in contact with anything substantial.Hi I recently bought some shelves from Ikea the sort that cantilever from the wall and appear to have no fixings. Fitting them to a Dot and Dab wall became an endless task with the hole in the plasterboard increasing day by day, untill I found 'rigifix' on ebay. they are simple, easy to use, and you can hang ships on them, so all this talk of batterns in walls is crazy, save yourself some time energy and heartache just get 'rigifix' from the start. They may seem pricey but they work every time.
rjb7403 said:
Fitting them to a Dot and Dab wall became an endless task with the hole in the plasterboard increasing day by day, untill I found 'rigifix' on ebay.
If you add an American accent to that and thrust a big pack of 'Rigifix' (TM) into the camera you've got a perfect cheesy advert!TooLateForAName said:
I like these
This is the only type worth the bother IMO. Nothing else spreads the weight far enough. Rawlplugs simply should not be used on plasterboard. The screw-in type are OK for holding up a bog-roll holder but you need this "clamp" type of grip for a towel rail, coat hook etc that might get some weight on it...Simpo Two said:
rjb7403 said:
Fitting them to a Dot and Dab wall became an endless task with the hole in the plasterboard increasing day by day, untill I found 'rigifix' on ebay.
If you add an American accent to that and thrust a big pack of 'Rigifix' (TM) into the camera you've got a perfect cheesy advert!grumbas said:
TheEnd said:
tried these?
Tip though, don't shove them into the wall upto the thread then twist - it'll take chunks of plaster out. Work them in slowly as if the thread was up the whole length.
PistonReg said:
grumbas said:
TheEnd said:
tried these?
Tip though, don't shove them into the wall upto the thread then twist - it'll take chunks of plaster out. Work them in slowly as if the thread was up the whole length.
Don said:
TooLateForAName said:
I like these
This is the only type worth the bother IMO. Nothing else spreads the weight far enough. Rawlplugs simply should not be used on plasterboard. The screw-in type are OK for holding up a bog-roll holder but you need this "clamp" type of grip for a towel rail, coat hook etc that might get some weight on it...Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff