Fitting Rim screws
Discussion
Hi y'all,
I have some new wheels and Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro tyres that I want to fit rim screws to.
I have seen a couple of diagrams on the web that show the screws going in either at an angle (up into the bead) or straight (ie parallel to the half shaft). Which is the best way?
What experiences have people had when fitting rim screws?
Is it possible to fit rim screws and avoid air leaks?
Are the screws intended to go into the (braided?) wire bead, or just into the rubber?
I have some new wheels and Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro tyres that I want to fit rim screws to.
I have seen a couple of diagrams on the web that show the screws going in either at an angle (up into the bead) or straight (ie parallel to the half shaft). Which is the best way?
What experiences have people had when fitting rim screws?
Is it possible to fit rim screws and avoid air leaks?
Are the screws intended to go into the (braided?) wire bead, or just into the rubber?
On my last set of wheels I used the method the wheel manufacturer recomended, alternating 90 & 45 degrees 16 screws per side, seemed to make sense & worked with that wheel.
The screws dont go all the way through the rubber & dont leak as much as the sidewalls (slicks).
Before that I ased the 90 degree only method also worked fine.
http://www.weldmotorsports.com/pdfs/Wheel_Rim_Screw_Procedure.pdf
Have you asked the wheel manufacturer what they recommend?
The screws dont go all the way through the rubber & dont leak as much as the sidewalls (slicks).
Before that I ased the 90 degree only method also worked fine.
http://www.weldmotorsports.com/pdfs/Wheel_Rim_Screw_Procedure.pdf
Have you asked the wheel manufacturer what they recommend?
Thanks for the info Paul.
I'm still unsure of how this works though. As far as I can see there are 2 things that could be happening when inserting the screws -
1) The screw cuts its own thread in the rim and it is this cut thread that supports the screw and stops it twisting out. The screw does not penetrate the tyres steel bead that runs around the rim of the tyre, but just screws into the rubber.
2) The screw is a loose fit in the wheel, but screws into the steel tyre bead, working its way in between the braided wire of the bead. (I'm not sure that this is even possible though).
What I'm trying to establish is whether I need to aim for the Steel bead, or avoid it...
I'm still unsure of how this works though. As far as I can see there are 2 things that could be happening when inserting the screws -
1) The screw cuts its own thread in the rim and it is this cut thread that supports the screw and stops it twisting out. The screw does not penetrate the tyres steel bead that runs around the rim of the tyre, but just screws into the rubber.
2) The screw is a loose fit in the wheel, but screws into the steel tyre bead, working its way in between the braided wire of the bead. (I'm not sure that this is even possible though).
What I'm trying to establish is whether I need to aim for the Steel bead, or avoid it...
you screw them in on the parallel edge of the bead, you'll find that areas not really 90 degree to the halfshaft but slightly angled. You screw them into the bead, not sure what you mean by rubber ? obviously the bead is covered in rubber, but they go into the bead but not through it. The screw should cut a thread in the rim. If the screw passes through the hole, you've drilled the holes too big. Phase the inner and out screws the same. Pump the tyre up to 25psi or so to fully seat the bead. Use hi grade screws of the correct lenght, put them in by hand with some grease or cutting lube on them, and screw them in. Don't use a drill driver, they can snap the screw in the rim if the pilot holes undersize.
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