Steering wheel boss query
Discussion
Having done a lot of work on steering and supension, I had to realign steering wheel to centre. Done this before with no issues but this time things have not gone so well.
To cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
To cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
Ireland said:
Buffoon said:
.....Should have taken pictures I know .....
I agree.I've pulled most of this apart and I'm lost, I have no idea what bits you are talking about.

Guess this post will sink to the murky depths for now. Will drag the camera out next time I have the wheel off.
Buffoon said:
Having done a lot of work on steering and supension, I had to realign steering wheel to centre. Done this before with no issues but this time things have not gone so well.
To cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
the plastic coller should locate on a recess on the actuall column sounds like the column has dropped down under the spring pressure, you need to pull the column up against the spring to relocate the plastic coller look under the lower dash and you should see the spring it should all become apperent then p.s don't drive it as you will break the cancellation board for the indicatorsTo cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
hth andy
APMAUTO said:
Buffoon said:
Having done a lot of work on steering and supension, I had to realign steering wheel to centre. Done this before with no issues but this time things have not gone so well.
To cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
the plastic coller should locate on a recess on the actuall column sounds like the column has dropped down under the spring pressure, you need to pull the column up against the spring to relocate the plastic coller look under the lower dash and you should see the spring it should all become apperent then p.s don't drive it as you will break the cancellation board for the indicatorsTo cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
hth andy
Have already reset cancellation board so not catching. Will pull up wheel in forward position and reset again if I can work it out.
I hear what you are suggesting re the collar, but it does not compute at the moment
Buffoon said:
APMAUTO said:
Buffoon said:
Having done a lot of work on steering and supension, I had to realign steering wheel to centre. Done this before with no issues but this time things have not gone so well.
To cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
the plastic coller should locate on a recess on the actuall column sounds like the column has dropped down under the spring pressure, you need to pull the column up against the spring to relocate the plastic coller look under the lower dash and you should see the spring it should all become apperent then p.s don't drive it as you will break the cancellation board for the indicatorsTo cut a long story short, where the aluminium boss on the back of the wheel fits into what I can best describe as the mating cup within the column the mating surfaces bind badly. Any ideas?
I also notice that the shaft which projects into the cup via the upper column bearing has a split plastic tapered sleeve floating on it. This appears to serve no purpose whatsoever because when the wheel is refitted it does not touch it?
Should have taken pictures I know
All help and advice gratefully received
hth andy
Have already reset cancellation board so not catching. Will pull up wheel in forward position and reset again if I can work it out.
I hear what you are suggesting re the collar, but it does not compute at the moment
Managed to pry the kids and missus from computer to post pics
1st shows nylon collet adrift from shaft, second correctly located.
Thanks to Andy, was a doddle to fix. When I looked at it first time it was in bad light so did not notice the shaft was grooved. 1st 5 min job that took 5 mins in quite a while


1st shows nylon collet adrift from shaft, second correctly located.
Thanks to Andy, was a doddle to fix. When I looked at it first time it was in bad light so did not notice the shaft was grooved. 1st 5 min job that took 5 mins in quite a while



JensenA said:
Ireland - once you've undone the nut, it should just pull off, there is nothing else that holds it on! I know you're not a mechanical numpty, so I can't think what is preventing your's coming off - Time for a big heavy rubber mallet methinks 
Mallet may be cause of collet popping.
Mine falls off everytime I sneeze (steering wheel)it has been apart do often.
Fairly simple to make a purpose puller, but if you remove the allen screws and ribbon cable from steering wheel, you can use a stndard bearing puller on remaining bracket. They can be tricky getting to stay on, so I use 2 legs only and clamp the tops of the legs together to stop it popping off. Sounds a bit S&M that!
I've tried pulling on the wheel, tried the mallet, tried (and actually broke) a pullers trying to shift it.
It's seriously tight.
I reckon someone glued it on last time and I can't move it.
Everything is working (for now) so I'm leaving well-enough alone but now that I've seen pics of what's in there it should help a bit when I do have to remove it.
I'm thinking of pouring a small amount of thinners / nail-varnish remover (her-indoors, not mine ..... HONESTLY) onto it once I've removed the bolt to see if it can dissolve the glue.
I actually thought it was a splined shaft and reckoned that's why it wouldn't budge.
The joys of Cerbs, eh?

It's seriously tight.
I reckon someone glued it on last time and I can't move it.
Everything is working (for now) so I'm leaving well-enough alone but now that I've seen pics of what's in there it should help a bit when I do have to remove it.
I'm thinking of pouring a small amount of thinners / nail-varnish remover (her-indoors, not mine ..... HONESTLY) onto it once I've removed the bolt to see if it can dissolve the glue.
I actually thought it was a splined shaft and reckoned that's why it wouldn't budge.
The joys of Cerbs, eh?

Hi Ireland
If I were you I would leave acetone (nail varnish remove) alone for now as it will damage the plastics etc. Try placing a gear puller on it under moderate tension and add some penetrating oil (not as agressive as acetone or chloroform but will soften any glue with no damage to the surrounding plugs etc and act as a lubricant) and then leave overnight. Hopefully it will have shifted with constant pressure over a prolonged period.
If I were you I would leave acetone (nail varnish remove) alone for now as it will damage the plastics etc. Try placing a gear puller on it under moderate tension and add some penetrating oil (not as agressive as acetone or chloroform but will soften any glue with no damage to the surrounding plugs etc and act as a lubricant) and then leave overnight. Hopefully it will have shifted with constant pressure over a prolonged period.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



