Discussion
Short 1/2" drive extension bar and a spanner on the end if its the male version, the female you can stick the drive straight in. I can only recall these 1/2" m/f plugs being used on the diffs. They are pretty tight as tapered threads are used and folks seem to mix up thread lock with thread seal 
Is it on the side or the back - 2 different casings were used along with several rear variations of rear cover - just for fun.. Welcome to the TVR world of "mines like this so yours should be the same"

Is it on the side or the back - 2 different casings were used along with several rear variations of rear cover - just for fun.. Welcome to the TVR world of "mines like this so yours should be the same"

Sadly, no, no magic...just barked knuckles, expletives and much time lost the first time I did it...
In the end I found that the best way to get the plug undone was to split the universal joint section from my socket set in two (drifting out the pin that holds the sections together, push the drive end into the filler plug by fiddling it up around the chassis with my fingertips and then turn the socket extension piece with a spanner or a screwdriver used as a tommy bar.
Took 90 minutes to get the plug out the first time but I can now do it in about 5 using the method described.
Always a fun task this one...!
Giles
In the end I found that the best way to get the plug undone was to split the universal joint section from my socket set in two (drifting out the pin that holds the sections together, push the drive end into the filler plug by fiddling it up around the chassis with my fingertips and then turn the socket extension piece with a spanner or a screwdriver used as a tommy bar.
Took 90 minutes to get the plug out the first time but I can now do it in about 5 using the method described.
Always a fun task this one...!
Giles
I had about 4 extension bars attached together to bring them out into the wheelarch, then attached my air impact driver. It still took about half a dozen really good goes at it before it eventually cracked open with a hell of a bang.
So the rule here is not to drain the diff before you are sure you can refill it again.
So the rule here is not to drain the diff before you are sure you can refill it again.
No magic!
Another answer for the rear mounted filler GKN diff.
I had a short double ended drain plug tool (approx 2 inch ish)13mm male sq one end and 14mm male hex the other .(part of a sealey tools set).popped this up between the chassis tube and bodywork(fueltank area) and turned it using a 14mm hinged ring ratchet spanner (part of a set from Halfrauds).
As regards getting the oil in, a Draper "oil suction pump" (app' £13).A big metal syringe (1/2 ltr capacity) and long tube.Suck it out of the new bottle and pump it in to the diff, until a little dribbles out!
Have fun!
Belchy
Another answer for the rear mounted filler GKN diff.
I had a short double ended drain plug tool (approx 2 inch ish)13mm male sq one end and 14mm male hex the other .(part of a sealey tools set).popped this up between the chassis tube and bodywork(fueltank area) and turned it using a 14mm hinged ring ratchet spanner (part of a set from Halfrauds).
As regards getting the oil in, a Draper "oil suction pump" (app' £13).A big metal syringe (1/2 ltr capacity) and long tube.Suck it out of the new bottle and pump it in to the diff, until a little dribbles out!
Have fun!
Belchy
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