Discussion
Well, I have the floor off and the chassis / frame is in great shape, all the rivets are out.
The floor has some corrosion though. After a quick search on the web I can get some new aluminium for all of about £50, so luckily my local fabricators is going to guilitine it for nothing, all I have to do then is drill the holes and I have a new floor. Bargain.
I am now looking for some large headed stainless screws, so if anyone knows of a supplier it would be appreciated.
I have been in touch with Area 52 and they are sending me some new actuators.
I will post some pictures as soon as.
Andy
The floor has some corrosion though. After a quick search on the web I can get some new aluminium for all of about £50, so luckily my local fabricators is going to guilitine it for nothing, all I have to do then is drill the holes and I have a new floor. Bargain.
I am now looking for some large headed stainless screws, so if anyone knows of a supplier it would be appreciated.
I have been in touch with Area 52 and they are sending me some new actuators.
I will post some pictures as soon as.
Andy
Regarding the stainless steel screws - you can buy self tappers from Screwfix:
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A331412/Screws/Self-T...
However they are panhead and don`t have an integral head washer. You can also buy stainless steel fasteners from Stagonset:
http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?output_frontp...
They do large head screws but not self tappers so you`d have to drill and tap the holes in the chassis which I think others have done.
I`ve used both companies and they are reliable suppliers.
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A331412/Screws/Self-T...
However they are panhead and don`t have an integral head washer. You can also buy stainless steel fasteners from Stagonset:
http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?output_frontp...
They do large head screws but not self tappers so you`d have to drill and tap the holes in the chassis which I think others have done.
I`ve used both companies and they are reliable suppliers.
AMG Merc said:
Andy, what did Noble put in between the floor panel and frame to seal it?
It looks and feels like a thin layer of rubber, about 1mm thick I would say.I am looking at a couple of options to replace it with, there is the obvious sikaflex, alternatively I have found some sticky backed neoprene which I would stick to the frame and then offer the floor up.
I have also found an aluminium supplier. I think I am going from the original thickness which seems to be 1-5 mm up to 2mm for a bit more rigidity, not for the rigidity of the car but hopefully it wont buckle when fixing it to the frame and therefore not giving any gaps for water to get in.
The aluminium comes to about £80 so well worth while I think as this also includes for the bit under the footwells.
I have had a good look at the changing of the turbo actuators today as well as I have the pan off beneath the engine. Now I have already changed the rear one earlier this year as I had a faulty one, so this will again be replaced but with the upgraded one. I reckon from what I have seen today that if you already have the engine pan off then the front one doesnt look too bad to change, it does need the heat deflector moved aside but that is accessible from above the engine bay.
You do need some slim spanners though and when I find out what size I will post here
You do need some slim spanners though and when I find out what size I will post here
The devil said:
AMG Merc said:
Andy, what did Noble put in between the floor panel and frame to seal it?
It looks and feels like a thin layer of rubber, about 1mm thick I would say.I am looking at a couple of options to replace it with, there is the obvious sikaflex, alternatively I have found some sticky backed neoprene which I......
Looks like a good job, are you going to treat the chassis with anything or just repaint prior to fitting the new floor?
When I needed replacemnt screws when I removed the panel to get access to the battery a local fastner supplies was able to order in exactly the same screws in stainless for the next day. He only charged me £2 for 100.
The company I used was Charnwood Fasteners in Loughborough.
When I needed replacemnt screws when I removed the panel to get access to the battery a local fastner supplies was able to order in exactly the same screws in stainless for the next day. He only charged me £2 for 100.
The company I used was Charnwood Fasteners in Loughborough.
Bizarro said:
Looks like a good job, are you going to treat the chassis with anything or just repaint prior to fitting the new floor?
When I needed replacemnt screws when I removed the panel to get access to the battery a local fastner supplies was able to order in exactly the same screws in stainless for the next day. He only charged me £2 for 100.
The company I used was Charnwood Fasteners in Loughborough.
The chassis / frame is as good as it ever was coming out of the factory, but I have made a few scratches etc getting the floor off so I will look in a motor factors to see what is available to give it a coat of something.When I needed replacemnt screws when I removed the panel to get access to the battery a local fastner supplies was able to order in exactly the same screws in stainless for the next day. He only charged me £2 for 100.
The company I used was Charnwood Fasteners in Loughborough.
Good topic Devil. How old is your car? Miles?
I am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
I am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
wirestriker said:
Good topic Devil. How old is your car? Miles?
I am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
Hi MateI am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
Its an 03 Reg with 32K on the clock. Yes I was getting wet carpets.
My chassis doesnt need sand blasting at all.
wirestriker said:
Good topic Devil. How old is your car? Miles?
I am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
Hi,I am planning to do the same job next week and I hope to find a good frame like yours. If not it will be a loooong job, trying to sandblast all the chassis members.
Did you experience wet carpets before?
I don't know if it's better to fit some self tappers or rivets. I think that the frame is too thin to create a strong thread for the self tappers... but refitting 300 rivets is a real pain.
Then I'd like to inject waxoil or something similar everywhere and then use some adhesive sealer.
Wish me luck, and be patient for my bad english.
I would avoid using structural sealant, it would make the floor pan a nightmare to remove again at a future date, it is surplus to requirement, just use some standard black silicon, you see all that on the picture above, that needs peeling off to uncover the clean protected chassis, you need to use something that will peel off easily, so when the floor pan oxidises again, you can do another simple clean up job and when you squash the silicon back up to seal the cahssis, you want it squeeze out of the sides and through the fixing holes, with normal silicon you can wait for it to dry then peel off the excess.
I personally would use screws, the chassis members have about a 2.5mm to 3mm thick wall, easily enough to bite into, the seats are carried off the chassis members, so the floor pan is not taking any vertical load, so as long as the fixings are in and holding it up it will still act as a structural diaphragm, i also don't like the fact taht everytime you drill out a rivet you get part of the rivet left inside the frame.
Here are some pics of when i did my front underpan, same situation as Devil, once the sealant was off the chassis was clean and had been well protected, i refixed with S/S screws and plenty off silicon.
Well, the floor is on, it took about an hour and is screwed on rather than riveting.
So I reckon that this is an easily achievable project in under a day. The proof will be in when I get to take it in the rain but it has Sikaflex and neoprene so hopefully should be ok. The worst thing is you need to keep going with the screws or the sealer may go off. All this was done with the car lifted off the ground and placed on blocks .
Will get some more pickies tomorrow
So I reckon that this is an easily achievable project in under a day. The proof will be in when I get to take it in the rain but it has Sikaflex and neoprene so hopefully should be ok. The worst thing is you need to keep going with the screws or the sealer may go off. All this was done with the car lifted off the ground and placed on blocks .
Will get some more pickies tomorrow
Hi Simon.
Got rid of all the old rivets, then put 2 cans of Waxoyl in to hopefully catch all the old rivet heads, that stuff is messy, used a self drilling screw straight into the original holes. I had originally planned to use stainless steel screws from Screwfix which I had bought but they were a bag of.....not very good quality
Got rid of all the old rivets, then put 2 cans of Waxoyl in to hopefully catch all the old rivet heads, that stuff is messy, used a self drilling screw straight into the original holes. I had originally planned to use stainless steel screws from Screwfix which I had bought but they were a bag of.....not very good quality
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