888R's on a Chim - are they worth it for a non-track car?
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice, I'm looking to fit some new tyres to the Chim and following discussions with friends have started to think about running 888R's, the thinking being that although I'm not likely to be putting the car on any tracks other than our annual 'ring trip I'd like to have more confidence in the car. I'm not someone who drives beyond maybe 8/10ths, but would like to know the car will grip and handle up to that point, I've got a set of Gaz coilovers coming today and will be getting a full geo done when the suspension is fitted... so will my driving benefit from some sticky tyres or should I be looking elsewhere?
(It's a second car so I don't expect to use it in the wet very often but realise in the UK it's not always possible to safeguard against this.)
Cheers in advance,
Rob
I'm looking for some advice, I'm looking to fit some new tyres to the Chim and following discussions with friends have started to think about running 888R's, the thinking being that although I'm not likely to be putting the car on any tracks other than our annual 'ring trip I'd like to have more confidence in the car. I'm not someone who drives beyond maybe 8/10ths, but would like to know the car will grip and handle up to that point, I've got a set of Gaz coilovers coming today and will be getting a full geo done when the suspension is fitted... so will my driving benefit from some sticky tyres or should I be looking elsewhere?
(It's a second car so I don't expect to use it in the wet very often but realise in the UK it's not always possible to safeguard against this.)
Cheers in advance,
Rob
chimjunkie.....In my opinion, for road tyres on a TVR the order of priority should be:
1. Aquaplaning resistance
2. Wet grip and progression
3. Progression and feedback in the dry
100. Dry grip.
On a car that grips, grips and then lets go, you don't want to have tyres that grip, grip and then let go. If you want to extend the dynamic capabilities of your Chim, I'd sooner swap the Gaz shocks for Intrax/Ohlins which don't just give you more grip, but above all more consistent grip and feedback with better body control and less 'white noise' in the car's movements.
1. Aquaplaning resistance
2. Wet grip and progression
3. Progression and feedback in the dry
100. Dry grip.
On a car that grips, grips and then lets go, you don't want to have tyres that grip, grip and then let go. If you want to extend the dynamic capabilities of your Chim, I'd sooner swap the Gaz shocks for Intrax/Ohlins which don't just give you more grip, but above all more consistent grip and feedback with better body control and less 'white noise' in the car's movements.
Rob Crutch said:
Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice, I'm looking to fit some new tyres to the Chim and following discussions with friends have started to think about running 888R's, the thinking being that although I'm not likely to be putting the car on any tracks other than our annual 'ring trip I'd like to have more confidence in the car. I'm not someone who drives beyond maybe 8/10ths, but would like to know the car will grip and handle up to that point, I've got a set of Gaz coilovers coming today and will be getting a full geo done when the suspension is fitted... so will my driving benefit from some sticky tyres or should I be looking elsewhere?
(It's a second car so I don't expect to use it in the wet very often but realise in the UK it's not always possible to safeguard against this.)
Cheers in advance,
Rob
Save your money. More road noise, more tramlining, less mileage than a good performance tyre for a single ring trip where by your own admission tyres won't be the limiting factor (or shouldnt be at 80%).I'm looking for some advice, I'm looking to fit some new tyres to the Chim and following discussions with friends have started to think about running 888R's, the thinking being that although I'm not likely to be putting the car on any tracks other than our annual 'ring trip I'd like to have more confidence in the car. I'm not someone who drives beyond maybe 8/10ths, but would like to know the car will grip and handle up to that point, I've got a set of Gaz coilovers coming today and will be getting a full geo done when the suspension is fitted... so will my driving benefit from some sticky tyres or should I be looking elsewhere?
(It's a second car so I don't expect to use it in the wet very often but realise in the UK it's not always possible to safeguard against this.)
Cheers in advance,
Rob
900T-R said:
In my opinion, for road tyres on a TVR the order of priority should be:
1. Aquaplaning resistance
2. Wet grip and progression
3. Progression and feedback in the dry
100. Dry grip.
On a car that grips, grips and then lets go, you don't want to have tyres that grip, grip and then let go. If you want to extend the dynamic capabilities of your Chim, I'd sooner swap the Gaz shocks for Intrax/Ohlins which don't just give you more grip, but above all more consistent grip and feedback with better body control and less 'white noise' in the car's movements.
Thanks for the response(s)1. Aquaplaning resistance
2. Wet grip and progression
3. Progression and feedback in the dry
100. Dry grip.
On a car that grips, grips and then lets go, you don't want to have tyres that grip, grip and then let go. If you want to extend the dynamic capabilities of your Chim, I'd sooner swap the Gaz shocks for Intrax/Ohlins which don't just give you more grip, but above all more consistent grip and feedback with better body control and less 'white noise' in the car's movements.
On the above the basis what would be recommended tyres for my suggested use? I was thinking the 888R's would give me more confidence in the dry knowing I was less likely to approach their limit, but having already experienced the car's ability to snap in damp conditions (my inability to drive in the damp?!
) I guess the suggestion for better all-weather tyres is a very valid one! I made myself afford the Gaz on the recommendation of a few other owners that refreshing the suspension and a geo would be 'the biggest benefit to the car you can make' but I'm not in any position to fit Ohlins or similar otherwise I'd have happily spent the extra.
Thanks,
Rob
Edited by Rob Crutch on Thursday 10th December 09:43
Rob,
Fiting Ohlins would be a bigger waste of money than the R888s for the use your car will get. New standard Billstiens would have been as good as anything, but some adjustability for the Ring - even if it is only once a year - is no bad thing.
For your tyres I would try some T1Rs or similar.
Fiting Ohlins would be a bigger waste of money than the R888s for the use your car will get. New standard Billstiens would have been as good as anything, but some adjustability for the Ring - even if it is only once a year - is no bad thing.
For your tyres I would try some T1Rs or similar.
I have been using Toyo T1-R for some time, as have other owners. On my second or third set, use the Chim in all weathers. Excellent, in my opinion, but you should agree with your Insurers that they are happy with V rated front tyres - not known any to not accept them. W are available for the rear, but not for 15" fronts.
Bob
Bob
I'm going to try Dunlop Sport Maxx TT on the rear (225/55/16-this is an early car) but that's mainly because I've got SP9000s on the front. Must say that the Vredestein Ultracs on the rear have been quite good, but they're obsolete now and were only available for the rear, anyway.
Goodyear F1s would be good, but the current GSD-3 profile is only available for the rears while the front sizes are the ancient and vastly inferior GSD-2 (you have to look carefuly on their site as this is only denoted by an asterisk). Toyo T-1Rs are a popular choice, but the fronts are only available with a V speed rating; you will have to check with your insurers if they're OK with that as well as yourself (I've touched an indicated 150 on a private road
while still accelerating strongly). Same for the R1Rs which are an interesting mix of track and high performance road tyre with a rain tread pattern and would be OK if you save them for the track after they've reached 4 mm or so - only V-rated in Chim-relevant front sizes, and 225 section rears only avaialble in 45 section with no wider 16" option. Hankook R-S2s are being mentioned also as they seem to be quite close in characteristic to the OE-fit Bridgestone S-02, but looking at the test results they're far better in the dry than in the wet.
If you still have serviceable Bridgestones at the front, the Potenza RE050(A)s might be worth a gander for the rear...
Goodyear F1s would be good, but the current GSD-3 profile is only available for the rears while the front sizes are the ancient and vastly inferior GSD-2 (you have to look carefuly on their site as this is only denoted by an asterisk). Toyo T-1Rs are a popular choice, but the fronts are only available with a V speed rating; you will have to check with your insurers if they're OK with that as well as yourself (I've touched an indicated 150 on a private road
while still accelerating strongly). Same for the R1Rs which are an interesting mix of track and high performance road tyre with a rain tread pattern and would be OK if you save them for the track after they've reached 4 mm or so - only V-rated in Chim-relevant front sizes, and 225 section rears only avaialble in 45 section with no wider 16" option. Hankook R-S2s are being mentioned also as they seem to be quite close in characteristic to the OE-fit Bridgestone S-02, but looking at the test results they're far better in the dry than in the wet. If you still have serviceable Bridgestones at the front, the Potenza RE050(A)s might be worth a gander for the rear...
TVR_owner said:
Rob,
Fiting Ohlins would be a bigger waste of money than the R888s for the use your car will get.
If you find yourself over here you should drive my old Chim on Intrax 1K2 Black Titan. I drive my car in all weathers over long distances and they make all the difference in terms of progression and consistency. Agree that a new set of OES Bilsteins would be at least as good as the usual aftermarket options bar the adjustability (FWIW) though. Fiting Ohlins would be a bigger waste of money than the R888s for the use your car will get.
Cheers for the feedback. I've got a pair of SP 9000's with good tread on the back which I could use but am not sure of their age. I was going to fit the spare 16" wheels I have to the front prior to the geo being carried out so was hoping to be able to match the rear tyres but go down one or two widths (so maybe a 215 up front?) - I'm more than happy to take any advice on this set up though as (as you'll have guessed already) I'm still very new to TVR's and would rather insure the car handles (although much prefer the appearance of the cars on 16's front and rear).
If you put the 16"s on the front, 205/45 would be the size to use (at least on non-PAS cars) with a reasonable choice of rubber. With the Dunlops at the rear I'd go for a similar spec for the front - Dunlop/Goodyear and Vredestein have similar priorities when developing tyres, so UHP tyres from any of these would be an OK match if SP9000s aren't an option.
900T-R said:
If you put the 16"s on the front, 205/45 would be the size to use (at least on non-PAS cars) with a reasonable choice of rubber. With the Dunlops at the rear I'd go for a similar spec for the front - Dunlop/Goodyear and Vredestein have similar priorities when developing tyres, so UHP tyres from any of these would be an OK match if SP9000s aren't an option.
Excellent news, i'll see if I can find some matching 205/45 Dunlops then 
So no adverse responses to fitting the 16's up front? Can the car be set up to handle properly like this?
The 888's were brilliant on my former car (Griff). Not even so bad in the rain although you have to drive slowly. They transformed the car from nervous to very stable. However, if you don't intend to do trackdays the new R1R is probably a better choice: same sort of compound but better wet capabilities and it's a true road tyre. I'm going for these on my Tuscan.
I'd stay away from the T1-R, I hated it on the Griff.
I'd stay away from the T1-R, I hated it on the Griff.
TVR did it for the last few RV8 cars they put out - not that it's a guarantee that's it's the thing to do 
but from all reports so far it seems pretty sensible. Offsetts are slightly different for front and rear wheels, but this is partly compensated for by the rim with (so front track will be slightly narrower but the outside of the mim will be pretty much in the same palce as before). Some cars may need steering rack stops to stop the wheels rubbing on full lock IIRC.
but from all reports so far it seems pretty sensible. Offsetts are slightly different for front and rear wheels, but this is partly compensated for by the rim with (so front track will be slightly narrower but the outside of the mim will be pretty much in the same palce as before). Some cars may need steering rack stops to stop the wheels rubbing on full lock IIRC.GT TVR said:
The 888's were brilliant on my former car (Griff). Not even so bad in the rain although you have to drive slowly. They transformed the car from nervous to very stable.
Up until a point... Most stable TVR I've drive so far by a huge margin is my Chim on Intrax with proper geo settings and 'garden variety' tyres (of appropriate quality)...
Edited by 900T-R on Thursday 10th December 10:34
GT TVR said:
I'd stay away from the T1-R, I hated it on the Griff.
& i love em 
Rob Crutch said:
So no adverse responses to fitting the 16's up front? Can the car be set up to handle properly like this?
Have a look at the link in my last post, 16's up front. As has been said you will need stops or small spacers...Would still say 2 sets of wheels & the option of both rubber is best though
Yeah, but none of that would stop you aquaplaning and headbutting the armco when hitting one of many puddles and rain-filled, truck-made ruts on a cold, rain sodden Calais-Brussels motorway (that is, like 3 out of 5 times I am driving the 300 kms home from the Eurotunnel) on triple eights...
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