Changing a rear wheel bearing on a 280

[NTEL]

I'm replacing the existing rear ali hubs with one the piece steel units. While I'm at it I thought I would replace the bearings in the steel hubs as they look a bit buggered. Is it just a simple job of pressing out the bearing and pressing the new ones back in? Any tips and advice welcome!

[Wedg1e]

Well yes, the job itself is 'simply' just that... but it's rarely as simple as that...

[york33]

Be sure to have a man-size press for the bearings Oh yes, and the big circlip is a pain in the rear if you can't find your circlip pliers! At least it was on the aluminium ones, not sure on the steel jobbies!

Edited by york33 on Sunday 20th December 00:13

[adam quantrill]

If you have one of the old bearing shells turned on a lathe it can be used to press in the new bearing, but then won't get stuck in the hole. I have one already done if you need to borrow one.

The circlip hasn't caused me any problems but getting new oil seals does. I found that a claw hammer is quite good at removing the old ones (use the claw behind the seal and ease it out a little at a time, working your way round) and with practice about half are re-usable.

[NTEL]

Thanks for your response guys Got the oil seals out easily but need a bigger pair of circlip plyers which I'll borrow from work tomorrow. I've got access to a bearing press that will press the bearings out of the Titanic so that shouldn't be a problem hopefully. Adam, good call about turning down the old bearing housing, I'll do that tomorrow when the old bearing is out

[NTEL]

Job done. Had more trouble getting the circlips out as they seemed to be rusted in a bit! Ended up using ratchet type pliers to get them out. The new bearings were a different design to the original, I believe they are a sealed for life unit so no additional grease required. Tried to turn down the old bearing housing for pressing the new bearing in but it was so hard it just overheated the lathe tool. In the end I used a 2" bsp malleable socket with the bead ground down to press the new bearing in. Fitted a treat! Shot blasted the whole steel unit and arm, cut off the end, welded on the new threaded insert to take the M20 rose joint and now just waiting for a coat of paint. Jobs a gud 'un!!!!!