torque converter seal
Discussion
I took the engine out of the range rover the other week. After it came out, a load of ATF poured out of the bell housing, which I guess means that I have moved or disturbed the torque converter.
My first thought was to simply push the torque converter back in, and pour some more ATF into the gear box and see if it leaks out, or whether it is then oil tight.
However, if it is oil tight when stationary, does that mean that it will be oil tight when running?
Other than taking the torque converter out, is there any way of checking the seal?
Is it a big job to take the torque converter out?
Edited to add the car is a 92 vogue SE V8 auto (3.9)
My first thought was to simply push the torque converter back in, and pour some more ATF into the gear box and see if it leaks out, or whether it is then oil tight.
However, if it is oil tight when stationary, does that mean that it will be oil tight when running?
Other than taking the torque converter out, is there any way of checking the seal?
Is it a big job to take the torque converter out?
Edited to add the car is a 92 vogue SE V8 auto (3.9)
Edited by BIG DUNC on Wednesday 23 December 21:29
Even when the gearbox is drained a LOT of ATF remains in the TC - as you will find if you ever remove one & tip it on its side! (Guess how I found that out!)
It just pulls off the front of the gearbox but be careful they are VERY heavy.
When fitting an autobox to a RRC the TC MUST be correctly positioned on the gearbox NOT attached to the flex plate on the rear of the engine. There is a also a specific measurement taken from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing down to any of the four bosses on the front of the TC. This ensures it is correctly seated as there are two cutouts on the back of it that engage with the box oil pump.
Measurement are here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/category_3... in the 'installation instructions' section. Your box should be the ZF4HP22 which is the standard autobox on the later 3.5 and the 3.9 RRC. Whilst they recommend standing the box on end to install the TC & it is the easiest way as they are heavy, I have done them under the vehicle. Fiddly but possible.
Be very sure the TC does not slip forward & disengage whilst you are refitting the box to the engine - or vice versa.
It IS possible to refit the box with the pump not engaged and invariably it splits the pump. No pump = no oil pressure in the box = no drive and then it all has to come off again to fit a new pump.
There is a seal at the front of the box which bears on the tube on the gearbox side of the TC which, as you say, prevents the ATF coming out into the bellhousing. If the TC has slipped forward then this probably explains the ATF you are seeing - assuming the seal is not defective.
LR manuals can be found in the 'downloads' section of http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php
It just pulls off the front of the gearbox but be careful they are VERY heavy.
When fitting an autobox to a RRC the TC MUST be correctly positioned on the gearbox NOT attached to the flex plate on the rear of the engine. There is a also a specific measurement taken from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing down to any of the four bosses on the front of the TC. This ensures it is correctly seated as there are two cutouts on the back of it that engage with the box oil pump.
Measurement are here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/category_3... in the 'installation instructions' section. Your box should be the ZF4HP22 which is the standard autobox on the later 3.5 and the 3.9 RRC. Whilst they recommend standing the box on end to install the TC & it is the easiest way as they are heavy, I have done them under the vehicle. Fiddly but possible.
Be very sure the TC does not slip forward & disengage whilst you are refitting the box to the engine - or vice versa.
It IS possible to refit the box with the pump not engaged and invariably it splits the pump. No pump = no oil pressure in the box = no drive and then it all has to come off again to fit a new pump.
There is a seal at the front of the box which bears on the tube on the gearbox side of the TC which, as you say, prevents the ATF coming out into the bellhousing. If the TC has slipped forward then this probably explains the ATF you are seeing - assuming the seal is not defective.
LR manuals can be found in the 'downloads' section of http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php
Edited by paintman on Thursday 24th December 00:26
Paintman has said it all for you.
I would add that if you can convince yourself that the leak happened because you allowed the TC to drop forward and then pushed it back then you could leave it that way. If not, then replacing the seal now is relatively cheap and will not take long to do.
Make sure you have it fully back on the 'box before refitting the engine.
Replace any missing fluid but do not drain and refill with new fluid. This can cause other problems.
Steve
I would add that if you can convince yourself that the leak happened because you allowed the TC to drop forward and then pushed it back then you could leave it that way. If not, then replacing the seal now is relatively cheap and will not take long to do.
Make sure you have it fully back on the 'box before refitting the engine.
Replace any missing fluid but do not drain and refill with new fluid. This can cause other problems.
Steve
Thanks for the replies guys.
I am sure that it is leaking because it has moved forward slightly as the engine was lifted.
However, I am in two minds whether to remove it and change the seal (or at least look at the seal), or whether to push it back as far as it will go, and then cross my fingers that the seal is not damaged.
I probably wont be doing the work until mid Jan, so I have a week or two to ponder.
In your experience, is it likely that once pushed back it will be OK, or is it more likely that the seal is now damaged (or will get damaged pushing it back)?
I am sure that it is leaking because it has moved forward slightly as the engine was lifted.
However, I am in two minds whether to remove it and change the seal (or at least look at the seal), or whether to push it back as far as it will go, and then cross my fingers that the seal is not damaged.
I probably wont be doing the work until mid Jan, so I have a week or two to ponder.
In your experience, is it likely that once pushed back it will be OK, or is it more likely that the seal is now damaged (or will get damaged pushing it back)?
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