rear hub nut !!!!!

[al 350i]

ok just a quick one, i'm trying to remove the rear assembly for a general refurb and paint, i've got a 38mm socket, a 1" drive ratchet (about 2ft long and weighs the same as the car). at the moment the car is on axle stands due to lending someone the wheels for a couple of days, do i need the car back down on its wheels in order to undo the hub nut or will it be ok on the stands? i don't think its going to come off easily as it looks like other people have been there before and bodged it up!! may be a job for the burning gear.

[chedder]

Best with the car on it's wheels, all 4 tyres need to be very well chocked, car in gear,(3rd) handbrake on for what it's worth! You will also need a length of scaffolding tube approx 6ft long to slide over the ratchet to give enough leverage to start the nut moving..Best of luck!

P.S I also used an axle stand to support the extention bar between the socket and ratchet.

[rev-erend]

What Chedder said .. totally agree.

It will have been done up to around 300 ft lbs of torque .. so is bloody tight.

Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 30th December 19:45

[Wedg1e]

If you can get the nut undone with the car in the air and just the brakes to stop the hub turning, it was nowhere near tight enough... that nut's the only thing stopping the wheel from parting company with the car!

[leorest]

iro its 220 ft lbs.
Wheels on the ground, handbrake on and in gear. 1/2 inch drive 18in long breaker bar and a 38mm impact socket works for me. No extension necessary unless you want to break something. Make sure everything is clean and done up correctly as you don't want it coming off in transit!

[adam quantrill]

I put a spanner through the UJ nearest to the hub, so it fouls on the hub, that usually gives enough resistance. Although the doing-up torque is 220lbf, by the time the bearing is settled down and worn you may only need 100 or less to undo it.

[grahamw48]

leorest said:

iro its 220 ft lbs.
Wheels on the ground, handbrake on and in gear. 1/2 inch drive 18in long breaker bar and a 38mm impact socket works for me. No extension necessary unless you want to break something. Make sure everything is clean and done up correctly as you don't want it coming off in transit!

No, you don't want it to come off.

[B@man]

adam quantrill said:

I put a spanner through the UJ nearest to the hub, so it fouls on the hub, that usually gives enough resistance.

Adams method works a treat, although I now have a slightly bent jack handle. It's worth putting the jack under the suspension upright to ensure that all the force you put on the bar goes into undoing the nut. I also found that whacking the T bar with a FBH while pressure is being applied (= Standing on it) helps loosen any threadlock.

Edited by B@man on Thursday 31st December 09:40

[al 350i]

thanks guys, looks like i'll have to go get my wheels, locking the uj sounds like the best idea.

[chedder]

al 350i said:

thanks guys, looks like i'll have to go get my wheels, locking the uj sounds like the best idea.

Don't think I would be too happy 'point loading' the cast iron UJ's