Mildly uprated Track clutch recomendations please.
Mildly uprated Track clutch recomendations please.
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Discussion

T89 Callan

Original Poster:

8,422 posts

217 months

Friday 8th January 2010
quotequote all
I'm looking to replace the clutch in my E30 325i Track car. I fitted a brand new standard clutch when I changed the engine but after 3 track days it's slipping on every gear change.

I'm pretty sure it's the constant track use and heat that has killed it as the engine and drive-train are standard.

Thus I am looking for a mildly uprated clutch that will cope better with the constant work and heat. It doesn't need to be triple plate carbon fibre paddle clutch that can cope with 2000bhp or anything like that.

Also the cheaper the better as I am pretty skint.

Anyone got any recomendations?

t11ner

6,933 posts

219 months

Friday 8th January 2010
quotequote all
What make was the last one you fitted? Unless you are a total animal with the clutch it really shouldn't have failed that quickly confused

I'd say just go for a decent make of standard clutch.

T89 Callan

Original Poster:

8,422 posts

217 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
t11ner said:
What make was the last one you fitted? Unless you are a total animal with the clutch it really shouldn't have failed that quickly confused

I'd say just go for a decent make of standard clutch.
Got it from GSF, can't remember the, make was a name brand though.

To be honest 7 hours of constantly hammering it around Combe (on three seperate occasions) would test any standard clutch to the limit.

clubracing

381 posts

230 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
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I would suggest going over the clutch linkage/hyraulic system to check that its working as it should. I know race cars that are still using the same standard friction plate after 3-4 seasons, this depends on the type of car but it should be lasting longer than 3 trackdays.
As above, use a good quality replacment as the pressure plates are often more robust as well than with the cheaper ones.

Edited by clubracing on Saturday 9th January 02:55

swtmerce

213 posts

231 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
T89 Callan said:
Got it from GSF, can't remember the, make was a name brand though.

To be honest 7 hours of constantly hammering it around Combe (on three seperate occasions) would test any standard clutch to the limit.
The clutch in my E36 track car is the one that was in there when I bought the car two years ago and the car has since done over 3000 very hard track miles on the same clutch and it still doesn't slip. I can't see why your clutch would pack up so quickly unless it was faulty or fitted incorrectly.

Edited by swtmerce on Saturday 9th January 06:03

T89 Callan

Original Poster:

8,422 posts

217 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
clubracing said:
I would suggest going over the clutch linkage/hyraulic system to check that its working as it should. I know race cars that are still using the same standard friction plate after 3-4 seasons, this depends on the type of car but it should be lasting longer than 3 trackdays.
As above, use a good quality replacment as the pressure plates are often more robust as well than with the cheaper ones.

Edited by clubracing on Saturday 9th January 02:55
The linkage system (it's a hydraulic piston) only release the clutch, if if the that completely collapsed the clutch wouldn't slip. it would do the opposite in fact.

weed

211 posts

265 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all

It is possible that the rear main seal is leaking engine oil into the bell housing and has fouled the friction disc.

m

t11ner

6,933 posts

219 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
T89 Callan said:
To be honest 7 hours of constantly hammering it around Combe (on three seperate occasions) would test any standard clutch to the limit.
A clutch should only be getting full throttle (or any serious amount of throttle) when it is fully engaged, all the wear happens as the friction is taken up between the plate and flywheel/clutch cover so one day at Combe shouldn't hurt it at all. I've done years of trackdaying without having to replace any clutches.

Assuming you don't normally toast clutches on the road or track I'd guess you either happened to get a faulty one or something on the mechanism isn't allowing it to fully close.

T89 Callan

Original Poster:

8,422 posts

217 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
Does anyone actually have any recomendations for an upgraded clutch?

clubracing

381 posts

230 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
T89 Callan said:
The linkage system (it's a hydraulic piston) only release the clutch, if if the that completely collapsed the clutch wouldn't slip. it would do the opposite in fact.
Yes, but it may adjusted so that even with the pedal at the top of its travel, the release bearing is in contact with the spring plate arms so the plates aren't held together by the full pressure.

Sachs make a couple of performance friction plates and an uprated pressure plate. Can be found on their online catalogue at
http://webcat.zf-trading.com/index.asp?LKZ=D&P...

iguana

7,314 posts

284 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
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Don't think you need an upgraded one.

Dome many many track days on standard clutches in Golf- 190bhp on clutch desined for 140bhp, also e30 325i track car & e36 M3

Must be circa 40 odd days & 1500 odd 'ring miles never had an issue.

With the Golfs many used a Helex upgrade & generally regreted it, much more $$ & had issues, no probs with stock.

Only upgraded clutch I've had= mx5 turbo too much torque for standard unit.

SPEC2-

http://www.performance5.com/drivetrain_clutch.asp



Is a faulty part, or driver abuse the issue I think.



Edited by iguana on Saturday 9th January 18:04

tony.t

927 posts

280 months

Saturday 9th January 2010
quotequote all
clubracing said:
T89 Callan said:
The linkage system (it's a hydraulic piston) only release the clutch, if if the that completely collapsed the clutch wouldn't slip. it would do the opposite in fact.
Yes, but it may adjusted so that even with the pedal at the top of its travel, the release bearing is in contact with the spring plate arms so the plates aren't held together by the full pressure.

Sachs make a couple of performance friction plates and an uprated pressure plate. Can be found on their online catalogue at
http://webcat.zf-trading.com/index.asp?LKZ=D&P...
If the hydraulics don't open the clutch fully or quickly there's drag on the plates when it ought to be open. It's not that easy to spot but it'll wear your clutch out mucg faster than normal. Ask me how I know....

deviant

4,316 posts

234 months

Monday 11th January 2010
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I dont know if they are available in the UK or not but Exedy do a fantastic range of clutches to suit pretty much any requirement.

It sounds like you probably need a new clutch anyway but I would also check everything is working as it should before bolting it in.

160steve

728 posts

216 months

Monday 11th January 2010
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ZF Sachs. They make F1 clutches and Toureg (Sp?) paris-dakar clutches so they know what they are doing.

chris7676

2,685 posts

244 months

Monday 11th January 2010
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What someone said before - most likely you just need a standard one that does NOT slip wink

Big Ashy

492 posts

277 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
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scratchchin Don`t take this the wrong way, but I have seen this on many occassions, your not using the clutch pedal as a foot rest are you?
As I`m sure your aware, any pressure on the pedal will ultimately result in clutch slip. Regardless of the fact that you know this will happen, you will leg will inadvertantly relax and put the clutch under pressure. Once it starts to slip and gets hot several times, its pretty much cooked!
Apologies in advance if this is not the case, but i thought it was worth mentioning?