Discussion
Hi Guys,
This may sound strange and is probably a no no but thought I would ask:
My car is parked (block of flats) right next to a cupboard that has a light source and I have a key for this cupboard. Is there an adapter that I can screw into the light socket to get a 3 pin mains plug socket so I can connect a trickle charger to the car?
Searched the internet and couldn't find anything. I thought that as this is probably low current something must be out there?
Cheers
Bondy
This may sound strange and is probably a no no but thought I would ask:
My car is parked (block of flats) right next to a cupboard that has a light source and I have a key for this cupboard. Is there an adapter that I can screw into the light socket to get a 3 pin mains plug socket so I can connect a trickle charger to the car?
Searched the internet and couldn't find anything. I thought that as this is probably low current something must be out there?
Cheers
Bondy
There used to be an adaptor with a 2-pin bayonet fitting one end that unscrewed to allow a 2-wire cable in (so the other end would go to your charger but IIRC these became obsolete ages ago (as it could introduce a heavy load onto the lighting circuit depending what you were running.
Can't you tap in a drop cable somewhere?
Can't you tap in a drop cable somewhere?
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
I can't see a suitable connector on that link. Which one do you think it is ?I suspect what you want to do is not legal anyway. I'm not fully conversant with that latest wiring regs ( IEE Version 17 ) but I'm fairy sure a lighting ring main is 5A but a power socket ring main is 13A. Therefore you'd easily be able to overload and trip the 5A breaker if you connected something other than a lighting source.
snuffy said:
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
I can't see a suitable connector on that link. Which one do you think it is ?I suspect what you want to do is not legal anyway. I'm not fully conversant with that latest wiring regs ( IEE Version 17 ) but I'm fairy sure a lighting ring main is 5A but a power socket ring main is 13A. Therefore you'd easily be able to overload and trip the 5A breaker if you connected something other than a lighting source.
but looking again I think you're correct, it's the wrong way round.Tie-wrap a solar cell to it? You might get a few watts off it.
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
snuffy said:
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
I can't see a suitable connector on that link. Which one do you think it is ?I suspect what you want to do is not legal anyway. I'm not fully conversant with that latest wiring regs ( IEE Version 17 ) but I'm fairy sure a lighting ring main is 5A but a power socket ring main is 13A. Therefore you'd easily be able to overload and trip the 5A breaker if you connected something other than a lighting source.
but looking again I think you're correct, it's the wrong way round.Tie-wrap a solar cell to it? You might get a few watts off it.
I'll just have to run a lead down from my mates flat couple of days before I wish to use the car. Don't think its ever sat down there this long without being used..bloody weather.
Bondy
Probably no longer available as the light socket will not be earthed. If you can find a bayonet or eddison plug you could make your own but not a good idea and probably now illegal.
Best bet would be to get a friendly sparky to have a look in the cupboard and see where a proper earthed supply could be run from.
Best bet would be to get a friendly sparky to have a look in the cupboard and see where a proper earthed supply could be run from.
If it's a fluourescent tube then chances are it will be earthed. Would be easy to hard wire a length of twin and earth flex into it with a socket on the end (it will only be live when the light is on!). There will be a permanent live at the switch (and hopefully an earth) so you should be able to hard wire a switched feed from there for a low power application.
If it was me I would be tempted to fit the charger in the cupboard and feed it to a weather proof cig socket drilled into the door or frame. You could then just connect to the car when parked up.
If it was me I would be tempted to fit the charger in the cupboard and feed it to a weather proof cig socket drilled into the door or frame. You could then just connect to the car when parked up.
david.mt said:
If it's a fluourescent tube then chances are it will be earthed. Would be easy to hard wire a length of twin and earth flex into it with a socket on the end (it will only be live when the light is on!). There will be a permanent live at the switch (and hopefully an earth) so you should be able to hard wire a switched feed from there for a low power application.
If it was me I would be tempted to fit the charger in the cupboard and feed it to a weather proof cig socket drilled into the door or frame. You could then just connect to the car when parked up.
I don't have access to the fuse box for the block so would have to do it live. Don't fancy that. I could as you say just take what I want from the light switch. Its all under cover so no prob there.If it was me I would be tempted to fit the charger in the cupboard and feed it to a weather proof cig socket drilled into the door or frame. You could then just connect to the car when parked up.
Just thought: I could wire it to the bulb side of the switch as that will be un powered while switch is off
Bondy
Edited by mgbond on Sunday 10th January 15:22
snuffy said:
I suspect what you want to do is not legal anyway. I'm not fully conversant with that latest wiring regs ( IEE Version 17 ) but I'm fairy sure a lighting ring main is 5A but a power socket ring main is 13A. Therefore you'd easily be able to overload and trip the 5A breaker if you connected something other than a lighting source.
Lighting circuits are normally run using 1mm^2 T&E which gives a 12A rating. However, that 12A is for all lights on the circuit, so depending on the installation you may have 10A free or just 2-3A. Lighting circuits are normally protected by a 5A "fuse" (MCB nowdays) or 10A "fuse" depending on loading.Ring Mains are typically run using 30A cable. The 13A is the maximum you can pull through a plug, not the capacity of the ring main. They are normally protected by 20A or rarely 30A circuit breakers.
You will not be able to buy today an adaptor to turn a bayonet light socket (or ES) into a plug. They were sold in the 50's, 60's and 70's (when a large number of houses only had electric lighting) but are not legal nowdays.
To be wiring regs compliant you'd need to get a new feed run in. However, I must confess that in my garage at the cottage I have run a socket spur off the main lighting ring, but that is because I know the total load of the lights and have separatly protected the socket with a 3A fuse to prevent anything above a trickle charger being plugged in.
Unless you know what you are doing I would STRONGLY recommend you get a qualified sparky in to have a look.
J
david.mt said:
Probably no longer available as the light socket will not be earthed. If you can find a bayonet or eddison plug you could make your own but not a good idea and probably now illegal.
Not an issue for a trickle charger as it will be doubly insulated and hence won't require an earth.david.mt said:
Best bet would be to get a friendly sparky to have a look in the cupboard and see where a proper earthed supply could be run from.
The wiring circuit will almost certainly be T&E and hence earthed. It's normally only the bayonet itself that has no earth (but depends on the light fitting). As I said above, and as per this, get a sparky to have a look.J
david.mt said:
If it's a fluourescent tube then chances are it will be earthed. Would be easy to hard wire a length of twin and earth flex into it with a socket on the end (it will only be live when the light is on!). There will be a permanent live at the switch (and hopefully an earth) so you should be able to hard wire a switched feed from there for a low power application.
I really wouldn't recommend that!joust said:
snuffy said:
I suspect what you want to do is not legal anyway. I'm not fully conversant with that latest wiring regs ( IEE Version 17 ) but I'm fairy sure a lighting ring main is 5A but a power socket ring main is 13A. Therefore you'd easily be able to overload and trip the 5A breaker if you connected something other than a lighting source.
Lighting circuits are normally run using 1mm^2 T&E which gives a 12A rating. However, that 12A is for all lights on the circuit, so depending on the installation you may have 10A free or just 2-3A. Lighting circuits are normally protected by a 5A "fuse" (MCB nowdays) or 10A "fuse" depending on loading.Ring Mains are typically run using 30A cable. The 13A is the maximum you can pull through a plug, not the capacity of the ring main. They are normally protected by 20A or rarely 30A circuit breakers.
You will not be able to buy today an adaptor to turn a bayonet light socket (or ES) into a plug. They were sold in the 50's, 60's and 70's (when a large number of houses only had electric lighting) but are not legal nowdays.
To be wiring regs compliant you'd need to get a new feed run in. However, I must confess that in my garage at the cottage I have run a socket spur off the main lighting ring, but that is because I know the total load of the lights and have separatly protected the socket with a 3A fuse to prevent anything above a trickle charger being plugged in.
Unless you know what you are doing I would STRONGLY recommend you get a qualified sparky in to have a look.
J
I am a qualified sparky and have an electrical contracting business
Unfortunately these days with part P regulations legally there is little you can do, I know everyone does it in their own home but in the communal area this becomes a different matter and there are fines of up to £5000 and possible imprisonment particularly if injury or death occurs. I know this is highly inlikely but beware. Also, the regs will almost always require the use of and RCD for earth leakage protection.
Justin
FYI
Ring mains are actually run in 22 amp cable and are normally protected by a 32 amp MCB, radial circuits with the same size cable (2-5mm) are normally protected with a 20 amp MCB
Very few lighting circuits are protected by a 5 amp MCB these days, it was increased from 5 to 6 and is now normally 10 amps
Andy
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